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D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Please review the following before responding:
http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the time. I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. Thanks a bunch! Chalky, J.D. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Overclocking chips usually requires running them at higher voltages then
normal, which will shorten the lifespan of the chip, which could mean that instead of working for 6-10 years it might burnout after 4 years. Or overclocking could shorten the CPUs lifespan to working only for several months. I'm sure someone has had an overclocked chip burnout after only a few weeks. You also could spend hours tweaking to get just a few extra MHz out of a CPU. You also spend $60 for a Zalman cooler, which is money you could have just spent on a faster CPU. And I'm sure there are a few 805 Ds that will never overclock to 4.0 GHz. When my D 805 and Asus P5P800SE arrive this week, I'll be happy if it overclocks to 3.6 GHz and with the stock cooler. "Chalky" wrote in message ... Please review the following before responding: http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the time. I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. Thanks a bunch! Chalky, J.D. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'Chalky' wrote, in part:
| I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first | self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the | downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? The downside of expecting to overclock an Intel 805 D CPU is that it isn't guaranteed to be stable at that speed. And you may very well end up paying more for a water cooling system than for the 805 D. As long as you enjoy tinkering with parameters and hardware then the fun is in the chase. Stable performance at 4 GHz is icing on the cake. Overheating will just halt an Intel CPU with no damage done. On the other hand, you must be VERY careful in increasing the CPU core voltage (certainly no more than 10% or so, and that in small increments); too high a CPU core voltage can instantly destroy any CPU. | Based on tomshardware, it | seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that | have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? The Tom's Hardware power consumption figures would be a lot more useful if the 805 D power consumption were separated from the rest of the system. BUT, using his figure of ~ 400 Watts for the complete system under load at 4 GHz, vs. ~ 260 Watts at the stock 2.66 GHz, the extra power drawn is 140 Watts. Electricity costs differ from location to location. In Atlanta the incremental cost per KWH is $0.07 US. So in Atlanta, the extra 140 Watts would cost (140 /1000) X $0.07 US = $0.01 US per hour, $0.24 US per day, $7.30 per month. Some additional comments: #1. Unless you have your computer doing work unattended, there is no reason to leave it on all the time; you can set up 'Standby' to save RAM, video memory, and system state to disk, and then cut off. Restarting from that 'Standby' takes little more than the time for the BIOS to boot; loading Windows (if that is the Operating System you use) takes only 5 or 10 seconds. #2. You don't have to go for the whole 4 GHz; 3.5 GHz is a very respectable overclock, and you can work your way higher over time. #3. The next CPU feature size from Intel will use much less power, so if you don't need to build a new system today, see what is announced for the 3rd and 4th quarters of 2006. #4. Take anything you read in 'Tom's Hardware with a grain of salt. Posting to this newsgroup is a good reality check. And here is an overclocking guide I've posted several time in this newsgroup; it doesn't take into account the newest Intel CPUs, but the methods and procedures for overclocking are similar. All Pentium CPUs can be overclocked; some do better than others. If the motherboard is 'overclocking friendly', an Intel CPU is very easy to overclock. If the motherboard is NOT 'overclocking friendly' the task is much more difficult. If your motherboard is 'overclocking friendly' the manual likely gives all the information necessary to overclock, though the manual may have been transplanted back and forth among several languages, and the information may be a bit confusing. #1. Raising the CPU voltage can destroy your CPU. NEVER raise the CPU voltage more than 15%, and if you do raise it, do it in very small steps. #2. Raising the CPU clock speed will NOT damage your Intel CPU, motherboard, memory, or anything else. If you raise the clock speed too much, the system will either to run in a stable manner, or will fail to boot. This is not a problem because either the BIOS will automatically reset to default values or there will be directions in the manual on how to reset to default speeds. #3. In overclocking, make any changes in small steps, checking for proper operation after each change. #4. Overclocking works best when the CPU temperature is kept as low as possible. #5. Intel CPUs can ONLY be overclocked by raising the clock speed. Even if the multiplier can be set in the BIOS, changing this settings has NO effect. #6. Some older motherboards may report an incorrect speed for CPUs that have a higher speed than available when the BIOS was installed. #7. Intel CPUs have a quad-pumped memory bus; that means data is transferred four times for each clock cycle; for a 533 MHz FrontSide Bus speed the clock speed is 133 MHz. That 133 MHz clock speed is multiplied by a factor FIXED and UNCHANGABLE inside the CPU to give the overall CPU clock speed. For your 2660 MHz CPU, the multiplier is X 20 (133 MHz X 20 = 2660 MHZ.) #8. The rated speed of the installed memory can limit the overclock. Memory can be overclocked, but it will eventually reach a limit. Faster memory can be installed, but the cost may not be worth it. The memory clock can be set to a lower ratio (with some motherboards) to allow higher clock speeds, but there is a performance penalty. How you overclock depends on the specifics of your system, how much patience you have, and much attention you pay to details. A general approach: * Download and install MotherBoard Monitor 5 (free) at http://mbm.livewiredev.com/ . This will allow you to monitor and record the CPU speeds, fan speeds, CPU temperature (and perhaps motherboard, memory, and other temperatures, and voltages.) * Download and install SiSoft Sandra (free) at http://www.sisoftware.net/ . This program is a collection of information gathering applets for your system. It also has low level tests of performance, as well as stress tests (necessary to establish proper operation when the CPU is operating at full capacity. I find version 2004 more useful than 2005, but 2004 is hard to find now. * Use MotherBoard Monitor 4 and SiSoft Sandra because the vast majority of the people who use this forum also use these applications * Read the manual carefully. * Clean the heatsink fins, and fans of all dust, grease, and dirt. * Write down the settings in the BIOS. * Write down the temperature and voltage information from SiSoft Sandra. * Check the voltages reported by MotherBoard Monitor 5 for you system. If any are outside the specifications this may affect the operation of your system, especially if it is overclocked. Also check the total rated output of your power supply, if it is marginal, overclocking (since more power is required) may also be marginal. * Steps for overclocking your Intel CPU (only after completing the above recommendations): #0. The standard setup for PCI bus and AGP bus speeds are fractions of the clock speed. Make sure the PCI/AGP Bus speeds are instead locked at 33 MHz/67 MHz; if the PCI bus speed is more than 36 MHz corruption of data on your hard drives can occur. #1. Increase the clock speed by 5%. #2. Reboot and check for operation. #3. If #2 is successful, repeat #1. #4. If #2 is not successful, raise the CPU core voltage by 0.05 volts (in NO case raise this voltage to more than a total of 15%, doing so may instantly destroy your CPU; when the core voltage reaches this limit go to #6.) #5. Go to #2. #6. You have reached the limit of overclocking without changing other factors which may include CPU cooling, System cooling, memory settings. Installing memory capable of higher clock speeds may help. On the other hand, some of these changes may be expensive, and not worth the money for the possible performance increase. * After reaching the highest speed, check operation under full CPU load (use SiSoft Sandra burn-in, other burn-in programs, or intense action 3D accelerated first-person shooter games.) If the system is not stable under heavy load, try reducing the clock speed and/or CPU core voltage (higher voltage means higher operating temperatures.) * Check the installation of the CPU heatsink; new heatsink compound may help CPU cooling. * A better than stock heatsink/fan may aid overclocking. * Improved system cooling may aid overclocking. * Exotic cooling of the CPU to room temperature or below can significantly increase top speeds (or not, depending on the individual CPU speed, memory quality, and motherboard.) WARNINGS!!! * Increasing the CPU voltage above 15% over specifications is likely to INSTANTLY destroy the CPU * There is always a chance that when you start fooling around inside the system case of your computer that you may cause damage (the butterfinger factor.) You can find a LOT of additional information on the Internet, including the speeds that others overclockers have reached with your model CPU. One question you must ask yourself is WHY you wish to overclock; I can think of three reasons: #1. Higher performance at little or no expense with your present system. #2. Just because you can, and enjoy experimenting #3. Bragging rights - the highest possible speeds (which is going to require a LOT more money. Don't let this long list intimidate you; just go along step by step. I am posting this on a system using aBit TH7-II (Intel 850 chipset) motherboard Pentium 4 2.6 GHz 400 MHz FSB Northwood CPU PC800 RDRAM 640 MBytes Stock CPU cooling 450 Watt Antec Power Supply I selected a clock speed in the BIOS of 121 MHz, giving a CPU speed of 121 MHz X 26 = 3146 MHz. The CPU will overclock to a higher speed, but the memory will not. To reach a higher CPU speed requires setting the memory clock/CPU clock ratio to other than 1, which reduces performance. Since I just want improved AND reliable performance and not the highest possible clock speed, 3146 suits me fine, though with async setting 3.5 GHz is easily reached. Phil Weldon "Chalky" wrote in message ... | Please review the following before responding: | http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ | | I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first | self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the | downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? | The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 | setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not | be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it | seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that | have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more | expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the | time. | | I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. | Thanks a bunch! | | Chalky, J.D. | | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'Tod' wrote, in part:
| Overclocking chips usually requires running them at higher voltages then | normal, | which will shorten the lifespan of the chip, which could mean that instead | of working for 6-10 years | it might burnout after 4 years. _____ When you find a report of ANY Intel CPU 'burning out' because of overclocking, please post the news here. Raising the CPU core voltage too high will 'burn out' a CPU, but instantly. But that is another issue. I agree with you about your expectations for 3.6 GHz for your new system. That is a reasonable, inexpensive overclock; anything more is just gravy. Phil Weldon "tod" wrote in message k.net... | Overclocking chips usually requires running them at higher voltages then | normal, | which will shorten the lifespan of the chip, which could mean that instead | of working for 6-10 years | it might burnout after 4 years. | Or overclocking could shorten the CPUs lifespan to working only for several | months. | I'm sure someone has had an overclocked chip burnout after only a few weeks. | You also could spend hours tweaking to get just a few extra MHz out of a | CPU. | You also spend $60 for a Zalman cooler, which is money you could have just | spent on a faster CPU. | And I'm sure there are a few 805 Ds that will never overclock to 4.0 GHz. | When my D 805 and Asus P5P800SE arrive this week, I'll be happy if it | overclocks to 3.6 GHz and with the stock cooler. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
"Phil Weldon" wrote in message k.net...
'Tod' wrote, in part: | Overclocking chips usually requires running them at higher voltages then | normal, | which will shorten the lifespan of the chip, which could mean that instead | of working for 6-10 years | it might burnout after 4 years. _____ When you find a report of ANY Intel CPU 'burning out' because of overclocking, please post the news here. Raising the CPU core voltage too high will 'burn out' a CPU, but instantly. But that is another issue. It's also a crock of ****. E.g. P4 Northwoods overvolted past 1.7V could croak in a day, week, month or year. Rarely "instantly". |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'Jack F. Twist' wrote, in part:
| It's also a crock of ****. E.g. P4 Northwoods overvolted past 1.7V | could croak in a day, week, month or year. Rarely "instantly". _____ And your evidence? Anywhere? Phil Weldon "Jack F. Twist" wrote in message k.net... | "Phil Weldon" wrote in message k.net... | 'Tod' wrote, in part: | | Overclocking chips usually requires running them at higher voltages then | | normal, | | which will shorten the lifespan of the chip, which could mean that instead | | of working for 6-10 years | | it might burnout after 4 years. | _____ | | When you find a report of ANY Intel CPU 'burning out' because of | overclocking, please post the news here. Raising the CPU core voltage too | high will 'burn out' a CPU, but instantly. But that is another issue. | | It's also a crock of ****. E.g. P4 Northwoods overvolted past 1.7V | could croak in a day, week, month or year. Rarely "instantly". | | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
"Phil Weldon" wrote in message k.net...
'Jack F. Twist' wrote, in part: | It's also a crock of ****. E.g. P4 Northwoods overvolted past 1.7V | could croak in a day, week, month or year. Rarely "instantly". _____ And your evidence? Anywhere? Google for 'northwood death syndrome' and take your pick. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'Jack F. Twist' wrote:
| Google for 'northwood death syndrome' and take your pick. _____ Sorry, but 'google hits' don't qualify as evidence, and 'everywhere' (for which 34,000 hits qualifies) is 'nowhere'. Phil Weldon "Jack F. Twist" wrote in message k.net... | "Phil Weldon" wrote in message k.net... | 'Jack F. Twist' wrote, in part: | | It's also a crock of ****. E.g. P4 Northwoods overvolted past 1.7V | | could croak in a day, week, month or year. Rarely "instantly". | _____ | | And your evidence? Anywhere? | | Google for 'northwood death syndrome' and take your pick. | | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Ok then, here are a few specific links:
The Official Northwood Death Syndrome Thread http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=115166 Detailed explanation of why NDS doesn't cause "instant" CPU failures: http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/cpu/display/news6375.html You're free to not read as much as you want. :-) "Phil Weldon" wrote in message k.net... 'Jack F. Twist' wrote: | Google for 'northwood death syndrome' and take your pick. _____ Sorry, but 'google hits' don't qualify as evidence, and 'everywhere' (for which 34,000 hits qualifies) is 'nowhere'. Phil Weldon "Jack F. Twist" wrote in message k.net... | "Phil Weldon" wrote in message k.net... | 'Jack F. Twist' wrote, in part: | | It's also a crock of ****. E.g. P4 Northwoods overvolted past 1.7V | | could croak in a day, week, month or year. Rarely "instantly". | _____ | | And your evidence? Anywhere? | | Google for 'northwood death syndrome' and take your pick. | | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'Jack F. Twist' wrote:
| Ok then, here are a few specific links: | | The Official Northwood Death Syndrome Thread | http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=115166 | | Detailed explanation of why NDS doesn't cause "instant" CPU failures: | http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/cpu/display/news6375.html | | You're free to not read as much as you want. :-) _____ You miss the point of evidence and explanation. And the effect of voltage on transistors. As do you and the posters and the essayist at the URL you posted. And you also miss the distinction between the effect of heat and the effect of voltage on Intel CPUs. Phil Weldon "Jack F. Twist" wrote in message nk.net... | Ok then, here are a few specific links: | | The Official Northwood Death Syndrome Thread | http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=115166 | | Detailed explanation of why NDS doesn't cause "instant" CPU failures: | http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/cpu/display/news6375.html | | You're free to not read as much as you want. :-) | | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
I myswelf have just built the same rig . .
Asus P5WD2 Premium Pentium D 805 SL8ZH Zalman cooler OCZ PC6400 (5-5-5-10) Geforce 7900 GT Xion II case with ****TY 450 Qmax PS Well, first things first, when i bought the case i had no idea it was a ****ty ass PS. Anyway here's what happened. . . I installed everything, booted her up and everything went GREAT! No problems, nothing at all. I was stupid though, and thought that since tom had a nice write-up that i could just go ahead and jump the CPU CoreV to 1.50 to get the 3.8 Ghz that he had at a 190 FSB. So, I did it, and everything was going fine. Windows booted up, i could run a program or two. And then I go to start up FEAR. Gets into everything, I turn on maxiumum for everything, and then start it up. Loads fine, and then the movie starts up. About 15 secs into the movie, the computer just shuts off completely. I go to turn it back on and nothing. I read up a lot, and found out about the ****ty PS that came with my case, so i went and bought a really nice coolmaster 600W PS with 120mm fan. I install it, and plug up everything. Turn it on, and YES it turns on and stays on. BUT, for some odd reason NO BEEP sound is heard and nothing is showing on the screen. So, I go ahead and pull the CPU out and try turnin g on the comp to see what happens. And wouldn't you know it, SAME THING!! Everything turns on and runs, but no POST, BIOS, screen, BEEP, nothing at all. So, What I'm asking is; Do you think I fried my cpu? Its seems to be the only logical explanation. If someone could get back to me and let me know, i would appriciate it greatly!!! I'm on AIM : Globalrebel420 Yahoo IM : Illcivichbu |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'GLoBaLReBel' wrote, in part
| I myswelf have just built the same rig . . | Asus P5WD2 Premium | Pentium D 805 SL8ZH .. | tom had a nice write-up that i could just go ahead and jump the CPU | CoreV to 1.50 to get the 3.8 Ghz that he had at a 190 FSB. So, I did | it, and everything was going fine. Windows booted up, i could run a | program or two. And then I go to start up FEAR. Gets into everything, | I turn on maxiumum for everything, and then start it up. Loads fine, | and then the movie starts up. About 15 secs into the movie, the | computer just shuts off completely. I go to turn it back on and | nothing. .. _____ Read up on overclocking before trying it again. Try the CPU in a working box with the correct chipset. Try with the original power supply. Check all your connections. Check the installation of the CPU (bent pins, for example) Considering the way you went about it, there lots of things that could have gone wrong. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message m... |I myswelf have just built the same rig . . | Asus P5WD2 Premium | Pentium D 805 SL8ZH | Zalman cooler | OCZ PC6400 (5-5-5-10) | Geforce 7900 GT | Xion II case with ****TY 450 Qmax PS | | Well, first things first, when i bought the case i had no idea it was | a ****ty ass PS. Anyway here's what happened. . . | I installed everything, booted her up and everything went GREAT! No | problems, nothing at all. I was stupid though, and thought that since | tom had a nice write-up that i could just go ahead and jump the CPU | CoreV to 1.50 to get the 3.8 Ghz that he had at a 190 FSB. So, I did | it, and everything was going fine. Windows booted up, i could run a | program or two. And then I go to start up FEAR. Gets into everything, | I turn on maxiumum for everything, and then start it up. Loads fine, | and then the movie starts up. About 15 secs into the movie, the | computer just shuts off completely. I go to turn it back on and | nothing. | I read up a lot, and found out about the ****ty PS that came with my | case, so i went and bought a really nice coolmaster 600W PS with | 120mm fan. I install it, and plug up everything. Turn it on, and YES | it turns on and stays on. BUT, for some odd reason NO BEEP sound is | heard and nothing is showing on the screen. So, I go ahead and pull | the CPU out and try turnin g on the comp to see what happens. And | wouldn't you know it, SAME THING!! Everything turns on and runs, but | no POST, BIOS, screen, BEEP, nothing at all. | | So, What I'm asking is; Do you think I fried my cpu? Its seems to be | the only logical explanation. If someone could get back to me and let | me know, i would appriciate it greatly!!! I'm on AIM : Globalrebel420 | Yahoo IM : Illcivichbu | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Phil,
Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and putting it into the holder.) Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm kinda screwed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran exactly the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot screen or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot more on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to make sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has told me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe wouldn't fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its just there was no boot screen or anything. Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by instructions, and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, and reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just stayed on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat and so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for your help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda screwed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. _____ Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an identical system. Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system. Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially about the power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is working correctly. Without some way of checking the three components separately you are not going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the system; mainly the motherboard}). DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and experience. I can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis it, or at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU, power supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault. Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your system at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation at STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then try the original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step at a time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not do the first time around. Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'. Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct message; your reply should be to my message, not to the original post. Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning much. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message . .. | Phil, | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda screwed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran exactly | the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot screen | or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot more | on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to make | sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has told | me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe wouldn't | fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new | coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its just | there was no boot screen or anything. | Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? | | Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by instructions, | and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within | seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, and | reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just stayed | on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat and | so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for your | help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
double post
|
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components
of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working), the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't figure it out! If anyone can please get back to me with an idea, that would be great. I've cleared the RTC (like 7 times already by unplugging the power, pulling the tiny battery, and then switching the jumpers for 20 seconds then go back in reverse.) Still, i get nothing. I think the only logical reason is the motherboard must be shot . . . any takers? I also just tried swapping out the new PS with the old one, and it did the same thing it was doing before. With the old Power Supply, the computer doesn't even run. With the new PS it runs but no beep is heard, and no screen is brought up. So, after much reading, and much stress; I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a bad mobo after a electrical shock. I'm going to try one last thing, and that is to replace the cmos battery with a new one. Maybe it got messed up when the power shock happened. Anyway, your insight is much appriciated phil. I have read, and re-read the overclocking guide you posted. If you can, please help me out one last time :) Your comments are looked forward to. (sorry, bout the double post, but you said i should reply to your message. Only problem is i can only Quote it. So . . here. Phil Weldonwrote: 'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part: | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. _____ Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an identical system. Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system. Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially about the power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is working correctly. Without some way of checking the three components separately you are not going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the system; mainly the motherboard}). DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and experience. I can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis it, or at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU, power supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault. Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your system at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation at STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then try the original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step at a time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not do the first time around. Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'. Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct message; your reply should be to my message, not to the original post. Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning much. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message . .. | Phil, | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran exactly | the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot screen | or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot more | on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to make | sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has told | me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe wouldn't | fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new | coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its just | there was no boot screen or anything. | Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? | | Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by instructions, | and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within | seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, and | reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just stayed | on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat and | so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for your | help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components | of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working), | the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i | thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are | working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and | the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't | think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the | mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't | figure it out! _____ Good move! Getting your CPU checked was a good move! Also the video card and RAM checked. Things are looking up. With a bit of luck you may find, as you troubleshoot, that NO components need be replaced! Many of the long time participants in this newsgroup started out with the Celeron 300a (or even earlier chips). With the Celeron 300a it was difficult, if not impossible to make a serious mistake in overclocking. Things change. With your 805 D you are dealing with lower voltage but MUCH higher power consumption (probably 6 or 7 times the power consumed by a Celeron 300a overclocked by 50%). Operating systems have become much more complex and demanding, Display adapters can cost as much or more than the CPU, and consume as much power as the CPU. * Be methodical as you get your system up and running. * Make only one change at a time, and write down the result. * Any changes that takes the system outside its designed specifications should be done in VERY small steps. You probably got into trouble by not following these three rules of thumb. If you had followed these rules: * You MIGHT not have had the failure. * You definitely would not have worried about your CPU as long since when you finally tested it worked. * Perhaps you would not have purchased a new power supply. So take a deep breath and relax. Make the necessary checks before purchasing anything. Do NOT assume that your original power supply was deficient. Do NOT assume that the problem is with your motherboard, and do NOT assume it is with either or both power supplies. DO be selective about advice you receive in newsgroups. Though alt.comp.hardware.overclocking has dropped drastically in the rate of new posting, it still offers a kind of peer review. If incorrect or dangerous information is posted, it is generally called down by knowledgeable participants. (That will happen if I've been incorrect in details in this post.) This is less true in some newsgroups (alt.conp.periphs.videocards.nVidia for example). Other possibilities - the first power supply is toasted (perhaps in internal, not accessible to user, fuse is blown) and when you installed the second power supply you made the new connections incorrectly, or you inadvertently disturbed a previously correct connection. Or you disturbed the connections of other components. If your new power supply has a rear panel AC voltage selection switch, make sure it is set to ~ 120 VAC and NOT to ~ 220 VAC (some power supplies can do this automatically, and will not have this switch.) Do NOT assume that no power is supplied to your computer system (specifically the motherboard) if the front panel light is off; + 5 VDC is ALWAYS supplied to the motherboard and some plug-in cards or features built into the motherboard (RTC, LAN, Modem {as if}... any device that can start the system from an external signal, including the keyboard, mouse, and some USB devices. Unless the AC power is interrupted (by unplugging the AC power cord or by using the ON/OFF switch on the rear panel of the Power Supply) + 5 VDC 'Standby' power is ALWAYS provided. You can get an ATX power supply testing device from CompUSA as well, I suppose, from Fry's. This are pretty simple testers (about $8 to $15 US), but they allow a basic test of an ATX power supply by just plugging the main plug (20 or 24 pin) from the power supply into the tester. The tester will jumper two contacts of the plug to bring the power supply out of standby, and four or five LEDs to indicate, more or less, the presence of good voltages. What it will not do is test the power supply under normal loads, that requires large resistors that produce exactly as much heat as the electrical power drawn. That is too much for a hand held device. But a pass indication from one of these testers is a good indication that the power supply is save to try in a system. ATX power supplies have a lot of built-in protection against overload and over voltage. For example, if you should drop a metallic screwdriver onto the motherboard, USUALLY the result is only that the power supply shuts down, and AC power must be removed and reapplied to restart the system; the motherboard, power supply, and everything else completely OK. Ask me how I know B^) A new CMOS battery will have NO effect on the problem you have seen. Even with NO CMOS battery you will still get some activity when you start a system that is otherwise ok. The CMOS battery powers only two things (as far as I am aware): the Real Time Clock and the settings that are saved for the BIOS. You don't clear the RTC (Real Time Clock); you clear the settings in the CMOS memory (low power consumption memory.) The Real Time Clock can be used to start the computer system at a set time, or after an elapsed time. Since the power supply always provides + 5 VDC 'Standy' power, the motherboard is able to turn the power supply full on and the RTC can initiate System Boot. The Windows operating system can get the time and date from the RTC when it is first booted, and can then correct that time when connection to the Internet is established. Without a CMOS battery, or with a bad CMOS battery, Windows will have an invalid time when it is booted. With ATX (or ATX12, which you have) power supplies, the 'Power ON' button on the front of the system case is NOT connected to the power supply. It is connected to the power supply; it is connected to the motherboard. The Motherboard then switches the Power Supply from standby (which provides only + 5 VDC with maximum current of one or two amperes) to full on. Motherboard circuitry then checks the + 3.3 VDC, +5 VDC, +12 VDC, - 5 VDC, and - 12 VDC; if all are at the correct voltage, only THEN does the Motherboard begin the boot to BIOS control process. If the voltages are NOT correct, the motherboard switches the power supply back to standby. This is the standard which both your power supplies should meet http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5Cspecs%5CATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf .. This is an Intel document on tested power supplies: http://www.intel.com/cd/channel/reseller/asmo-na/eng/tech_reference/35815.htm .. The green light ( I guess you mean the power on light at the front of the system case) indicates that the power supply has been switched on and is providing the correct voltages. ATX power supplies (almost all desktop PC power supplies) produce + 5 VDC 'Standby' power as long as AC power is connected, regardless of whether the system is switched on by the front panel switch. If you get through this second long post, please post additional question. I, or someone else can likely post some good links with information useful for overclocking. I just ran across this web site, 'TechRepublic': http://techrepublic.com.com/2001-1-0.html . The home page appeals like a Buick, but the information I found there on Windows XP restore point files and how to find/manipulate them appeals more like an Alfa Spider Duetto ( to me, anyway.) I never would have gone past the home page had I not found the restore point information through a Google search. The Xbit Laboratories is also a good source of technical information: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/video/display/ati-vs-nv-power.html . You might find the information there on Display adapter power consumption interesting. Perhaps the article will be updated to include the 7X00 series of nVidia based cards. I generally like to find technical information from non-overclocking sites so I can have a basis to judge what I read in overclocking enthusiast sites. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message m... | So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components | of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working), | the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i | thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are | working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and | the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't | think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the | mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't | figure it out! If anyone can please get back to me with an idea, that | would be great. I've cleared the RTC (like 7 times already by | unplugging the power, pulling the tiny battery, and then switching | the jumpers for 20 seconds then go back in reverse.) Still, i get | nothing. I think the only logical reason is the motherboard must be | shot . . . any takers? | I also just tried swapping out the new PS with the old one, and it did | the same thing it was doing before. With the old Power Supply, the | computer doesn't even run. With the new PS it runs but no beep is | heard, and no screen is brought up. So, after much reading, and much | stress; I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a bad mobo | after a electrical shock. I'm going to try one last thing, and that | is to replace the cmos battery with a new one. Maybe it got messed up | when the power shock happened. Anyway, your insight is much | appriciated phil. I have read, and re-read the overclocking guide you | posted. If you can, please help me out one last time :) Your comments | are looked forward to. | | (sorry, bout the double post, but you said i should reply to your | message. Only problem is i can only Quote it. So . . here. | Phil Weldonwrote: | 'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part: | | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | | putting it into the holder.) | | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply | is | | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp | turn | | on, then just fade away. | _____ | | Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an | identical | system. | Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system. | | Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially | about the | power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is | working | correctly. | | Without some way of checking the three components separately you are | not | going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the | system; | mainly the motherboard}). | | DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and | experience. I | can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis | it, or | at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU, | power | supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault. | | Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your | system | at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation | at | STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then | try the | original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step | at a | time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not | do the | first time around. | | Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'. | | Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct | message; your | reply should be to my message, not to the original post. | | Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable | | knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning | much. | | Phil Weldon | | "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message | . .. | | Phil, | | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | | putting it into the holder.) | | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply | is | | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp | turn | | on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran | exactly | | the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot | screen | | or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot | more | | on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to | make | | sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has | told | | me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe | wouldn't | | fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new | | coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its | just | | there was no boot screen or anything. | | Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? | | | | Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by | instructions, | | and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within | | seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, | and | | reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just | stayed | | on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat | and | | so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for | your | | help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. | | | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel
Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. I think I should have up the voltage. "Chalky" wrote in message ... Please review the following before responding: http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the time. I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. Thanks a bunch! Chalky, J.D. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'tod' wrote:
|I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel | Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. | Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried | 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. | After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. | I think I should have up the voltage. |_____ Make sure you have the PCI bus locked to 33 MHz. IDE hard drives can corrupt data at anything much over 37 MHz, causing exactly the same symptom and require exactly the same repair as you report. "tod" wrote in message k.net... |I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel | Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. | Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried | 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. | After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. | I think I should have up the voltage. | | "Chalky" wrote in message | ... | Please review the following before responding: | http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ | | I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first | self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the | downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? | The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 | setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not | be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it | seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that | have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more | expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the | time. | | I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. | Thanks a bunch! | | Chalky, J.D. | | | | | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
On Wed, 17 May 2006 22:52:27 -0500, "Chalky" wrote:
Please review the following before responding: http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the time. I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. Thanks a bunch! Chalky, J.D. I thought it's pretty cool that the chip is available, but then again it just shows how desperate Intel is these days. Or maybe it suggests how much both AMD and Intel are yanking our chains with all these crippled cpu's they market. I think if you're into the mechanics of overclocking, it would be a fun exercise providing you got a chip that performed as well as Tom's did. Tom's kind of an Intel flunky. I'd wait for a LOT of user feedback on that. Personally, I kind of laughed that you had to jump through all those hoops and use all that watercooling and high power to get a chip that barely outperforms a chip running a gigahertz slower (and cooler etc). But that's the whole problem with Intel these days. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
I did have the AGP/PCI bus locked at 66.66/33.33
"Phil Weldon" wrote in message k.net... 'tod' wrote: |I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel | Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. | Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried | 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. | After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. | I think I should have up the voltage. |_____ Make sure you have the PCI bus locked to 33 MHz. IDE hard drives can corrupt data at anything much over 37 MHz, causing exactly the same symptom and require exactly the same repair as you report. "tod" wrote in message k.net... |I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel | Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. | Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried | 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. | After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. | I think I should have up the voltage. | | "Chalky" wrote in message | ... | Please review the following before responding: | http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ | | I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first | self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the | downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? | The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 | setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not | be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it | seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that | have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more | expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the | time. | | I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. | Thanks a bunch! | | Chalky, J.D. | | | | | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'tod' wrote: |I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel | Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. | Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried | 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. | After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. | I think I should have up the voltage. Re-read the following link. http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Wow, these quote are getting pretty long. Phil, I can't thank you
enough for the help you have givin me through the past few days! I checked the PS supply that i just bought and it is the ATX12V Ver. 2.01 so there's no problem there. I know the other PS is fried cause i also stuck it into a older comp that used the 20 pin and it didn't do anything. So, the only thing left could be the mobo. Now you said that there could be nothing wrong at all, and I would HOPE SOO. The only thing is, what else could be causing this? I have unhooked everything except ram, cpu, and gfx card. and tried booting, with no success. And if all the components work on another mobo, the only thing left is the mobo. I have read a lot lately, and still nothing new has come up on what could be the problem. And, seeing as there have been other incidents where the mobo has been fried from a crappy PS, I think I've found the culprit. BUT, just to make sure, I'm going to call up a comp store tomorrow and see if they can test my mobo. (my friend can't test it) I was wondering though phil, when i bought the ram it said its timings were 5-5-5-10 and i went to change the timing settings myself in the bios and there were 5 points like 5-5-5-10-4 and I don't know what to set the last one at? My ram is OCZ Dual channel 512's DDR2-800, and one final question. Since I am overclocking the system, should i change the timing settings on the ram, and should i also lock the mzh to 33.3 like you were saying earlier? Phil Weldonwrote: 'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part: | So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components | of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working), | the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i | thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are | working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and | the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't | think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the | mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't | figure it out! _____ Good move! Getting your CPU checked was a good move! Also the video card and RAM checked. Things are looking up. With a bit of luck you may find, as you troubleshoot, that NO components need be replaced! Many of the long time participants in this newsgroup started out with the Celeron 300a (or even earlier chips). With the Celeron 300a it was difficult, if not impossible to make a serious mistake in overclocking. Things change. With your 805 D you are dealing with lower voltage but MUCH higher power consumption (probably 6 or 7 times the power consumed by a Celeron 300a overclocked by 50%). Operating systems have become much more complex and demanding, Display adapters can cost as much or more than the CPU, and consume as much power as the CPU. * Be methodical as you get your system up and running. * Make only one change at a time, and write down the result. * Any changes that takes the system outside its designed specifications should be done in VERY small steps. You probably got into trouble by not following these three rules of thumb. If you had followed these rules: * You MIGHT not have had the failure. * You definitely would not have worried about your CPU as long since when you finally tested it worked. * Perhaps you would not have purchased a new power supply. So take a deep breath and relax. Make the necessary checks before purchasing anything. Do NOT assume that your original power supply was deficient. Do NOT assume that the problem is with your motherboard, and do NOT assume it is with either or both power supplies. DO be selective about advice you receive in newsgroups. Though alt.comp.hardware.overclocking has dropped drastically in the rate of new posting, it still offers a kind of peer review. If incorrect or dangerous information is posted, it is generally called down by knowledgeable participants. (That will happen if I've been incorrect in details in this post.) This is less true in some newsgroups (alt.conp.periphs.videocards.nVidia for example). Other possibilities - the first power supply is toasted (perhaps in internal, not accessible to user, fuse is blown) and when you installed the second power supply you made the new connections incorrectly, or you inadvertently disturbed a previously correct connection. Or you disturbed the connections of other components. If your new power supply has a rear panel AC voltage selection switch, make sure it is set to ~ 120 VAC and NOT to ~ 220 VAC (some power supplies can do this automatically, and will not have this switch.) Do NOT assume that no power is supplied to your computer system (specifically the motherboard) if the front panel light is off; + 5 VDC is ALWAYS supplied to the motherboard and some plug-in cards or features built into the motherboard (RTC, LAN, Modem {as if}... any device that can start the system from an external signal, including the keyboard, mouse, and some USB devices. Unless the AC power is interrupted (by unplugging the AC power cord or by using the ON/OFF switch on the rear panel of the Power Supply) + 5 VDC 'Standby' power is ALWAYS provided. You can get an ATX power supply testing device from CompUSA as well, I suppose, from Fry's. This are pretty simple testers (about $8 to $15 US), but they allow a basic test of an ATX power supply by just plugging the main plug (20 or 24 pin) from the power supply into the tester. The tester will jumper two contacts of the plug to bring the power supply out of standby, and four or five LEDs to indicate, more or less, the presence of good voltages. What it will not do is test the power supply under normal loads, that requires large resistors that produce exactly as much heat as the electrical power drawn. That is too much for a hand held device. But a pass indication from one of these testers is a good indication that the power supply is save to try in a system. ATX power supplies have a lot of built-in protection against overload and over voltage. For example, if you should drop a metallic screwdriver onto the motherboard, USUALLY the result is only that the power supply shuts down, and AC power must be removed and reapplied to restart the system; the motherboard, power supply, and everything else completely OK. Ask me how I know B^) A new CMOS battery will have NO effect on the problem you have seen. Even with NO CMOS battery you will still get some activity when you start a system that is otherwise ok. The CMOS battery powers only two things (as far as I am aware): the Real Time Clock and the settings that are saved for the BIOS. You don't clear the RTC (Real Time Clock); you clear the settings in the CMOS memory (low power consumption memory.) The Real Time Clock can be used to start the computer system at a set time, or after an elapsed time. Since the power supply always provides + 5 VDC 'Standy' power, the motherboard is able to turn the power supply full on and the RTC can initiate System Boot. The Windows operating system can get the time and date from the RTC when it is first booted, and can then correct that time when connection to the Internet is established. Without a CMOS battery, or with a bad CMOS battery, Windows will have an invalid time when it is booted. With ATX (or ATX12, which you have) power supplies, the 'Power ON' button on the front of the system case is NOT connected to the power supply. It is connected to the power supply; it is connected to the motherboard. The Motherboard then switches the Power Supply from standby (which provides only + 5 VDC with maximum current of one or two amperes) to full on. Motherboard circuitry then checks the + 3.3 VDC, +5 VDC, +12 VDC, - 5 VDC, and - 12 VDC; if all are at the correct voltage, only THEN does the Motherboard begin the boot to BIOS control process. If the voltages are NOT correct, the motherboard switches the power supply back to standby. This is the standard which both your power supplies should meet http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5Cspecs%5CATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf .. This is an Intel document on tested power supplies: http://www.intel.com/cd/channel/reseller/asmo-na/eng/tech_reference/35815.htm .. The green light ( I guess you mean the power on light at the front of the system case) indicates that the power supply has been switched on and is providing the correct voltages. ATX power supplies (almost all desktop PC power supplies) produce + 5 VDC 'Standby' power as long as AC power is connected, regardless of whether the system is switched on by the front panel switch. If you get through this second long post, please post additional question. I, or someone else can likely post some good links with information useful for overclocking. I just ran across this web site, 'TechRepublic': http://techrepublic.com.com/2001-1-0.html . The home page appeals like a Buick, but the information I found there on Windows XP restore point files and how to find/manipulate them appeals more like an Alfa Spider Duetto ( to me, anyway.) I never would have gone past the home page had I not found the restore point information through a Google search. The Xbit Laboratories is also a good source of technical information: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/video/display/ati-vs-nv-power.html .. You might find the information there on Display adapter power consumption interesting. Perhaps the article will be updated to include the 7X00 series of nVidia based cards. I generally like to find technical information from non-overclocking sites so I can have a basis to judge what I read in overclocking enthusiast sites. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message m... | So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components | of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working), | the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i | thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are | working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and | the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't | think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the | mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't | figure it out! If anyone can please get back to me with an idea, that | would be great. I've cleared the RTC (like 7 times already by | unplugging the power, pulling the tiny battery, and then switching | the jumpers for 20 seconds then go back in reverse.) Still, i get | nothing. I think the only logical reason is the motherboard must be | shot . . . any takers? | I also just tried swapping out the new PS with the old one, and it did | the same thing it was doing before. With the old Power Supply, the | computer doesn't even run. With the new PS it runs but no beep is | heard, and no screen is brought up. So, after much reading, and much | stress; I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a bad mobo | after a electrical shock. I'm going to try one last thing, and that | is to replace the cmos battery with a new one. Maybe it got messed up | when the power shock happened. Anyway, your insight is much | appriciated phil. I have read, and re-read the overclocking guide you | posted. If you can, please help me out one last time :) Your comments | are looked forward to. | | (sorry, bout the double post, but you said i should reply to your | message. Only problem is i can only Quote it. So . . here. | Phil Weldonwrote: | 'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part: | | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | | putting it into the holder.) | | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply | is | | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp | turn | | on, then just fade away. | _____ | | Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an | identical | system. | Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system. | | Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially | about the | power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is | working | correctly. | | Without some way of checking the three components separately you are | not | going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the | system; | mainly the motherboard}). | | DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and | experience. I | can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis | it, or | at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU, | power | supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault. | | Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your | system | at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation | at | STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then | try the | original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step | at a | time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not | do the | first time around. | | Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'. | | Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct | message; your | reply should be to my message, not to the original post. | | Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable | | knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning | much. | | Phil Weldon | | "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message | . .. | | Phil, | | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | | putting it into the holder.) | | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply | is | | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp | turn | | on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran | exactly | | the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot | screen | | or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot | more | | on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to | make | | sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has | told | | me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe | wouldn't | | fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new | | coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its | just | | there was no boot screen or anything. | | Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? | | | | Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by | instructions, | | and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within | | seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, | and | | reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just | stayed | | on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat | and | | so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for | your | | help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. | | | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Phil, here is the power supply i bought . . .
http://www.coolermaster.com/index.ph...&other_title=0 And it seems to be fine for what i am doing. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Tod,
If you're using the default or latest bios from asus then on boot up, you should get a message saying "failed overclock attempt". F1 to continue. That puts you back into BIOS where you can reset settings B4 proceeding. I have the same mobo. If you do that, you should be able to avoid bad things. Unless you have premium ram sticks, you probably will have to be happy with a 2o% overclock. That's where I'm at (P4 640 3.2 @ 3.84) and it's very stable. I had to slow my mem clock from 400 to 320 to achieve this, (again cheap memory). Once your make it happy, I think you'll be happy as well. regards, Al On Tue, 23 May 2006 01:03:26 GMT, "tod" wrote: I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. I think I should have up the voltage. "Chalky" wrote in message ... Please review the following before responding: http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the time. I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. Thanks a bunch! Chalky, J.D. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Hi Phil,
I forgot to mention that to tod. You're right about pci/agp. Since I own this board, I think I remeber someone saying in one of the OC forums that they were trying to adjust pci:agp on this board and were unsuccessful, and that for some reason (I'm not sure why) the agp:pci value was locked on this board. Maybe for safety's sake!! I've enjoyed your comments in this group.. Keep on keep'n on!! Al On Tue, 23 May 2006 01:10:57 GMT, "Phil Weldon" wrote: 'tod' wrote: |I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel | Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. | Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried | 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. | After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. | I think I should have up the voltage. |_____ Make sure you have the PCI bus locked to 33 MHz. IDE hard drives can corrupt data at anything much over 37 MHz, causing exactly the same symptom and require exactly the same repair as you report. "tod" wrote in message nk.net... |I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel | Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. | Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried | 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. | After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. | I think I should have up the voltage. | | "Chalky" wrote in message | ... | Please review the following before responding: | http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ | | I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first | self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the | downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? | The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 | setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not | be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it | seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that | have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more | expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the | time. | | I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. | Thanks a bunch! | | Chalky, J.D. | | | | | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
I've got three sticks of PNY 512MB PC3200 memory, they worked fine at 200MHz
DDR in my old motherboard. I update to the latest bios just a few hours after installing the motherboard. I've learn one thing, when using a CPU (like the D 805) designed for the 533MHz (133MHz) QDR bus. The Asus Bios will only allow 266 or 333 bus speed, not 400 (200MHz DDR). "Al Brumski" ? wrote in message ... Tod, If you're using the default or latest bios from asus then on boot up, you should get a message saying "failed overclock attempt". F1 to continue. That puts you back into BIOS where you can reset settings B4 proceeding. I have the same mobo. If you do that, you should be able to avoid bad things. Unless you have premium ram sticks, you probably will have to be happy with a 2o% overclock. That's where I'm at (P4 640 3.2 @ 3.84) and it's very stable. I had to slow my mem clock from 400 to 320 to achieve this, (again cheap memory). Once your make it happy, I think you'll be happy as well. regards, Al On Tue, 23 May 2006 01:03:26 GMT, "tod" wrote: I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. I think I should have up the voltage. "Chalky" wrote in message ... Please review the following before responding: http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the time. I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. Thanks a bunch! Chalky, J.D. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Just an update . . . Went out and bought a new Asus P5wd2-E Premium
Mobo, and tried starting it up . . only to find out it does the same ****ing THING!!! The only thing left now is the power supply, and IT BETTER BE THE ****ING PROBLEM!!!! Going down to fry's to exchange for a new one. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| Just an update . . . Went out and bought a new Asus P5wd2-E Premium | Mobo, and tried starting it up . . only to find out it does the same | ****ing THING!!! The only thing left now is the power supply, and IT | BETTER BE THE ****ING PROBLEM!!!! Going down to fry's to exchange for | a new one. _____ Remember what I posted? "So take a deep breath and relax. Make the necessary checks before purchasing anything. Do NOT assume that your original power supply was deficient. Do NOT assume that the problem is with your motherboard, and do NOT assume it is with either or both power supplies." Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message . .. | Just an update . . . Went out and bought a new Asus P5wd2-E Premium | Mobo, and tried starting it up . . only to find out it does the same | ****ing THING!!! The only thing left now is the power supply, and IT | BETTER BE THE ****ING PROBLEM!!!! Going down to fry's to exchange for | a new one. | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| I was wondering though phil, when i bought the ram it said its timings | were 5-5-5-10 and i went to change the timing settings myself in | the bios and there were 5 points like 5-5-5-10-4 and I don't know what | to set the last one at? My ram is OCZ Dual channel 512's DDR2-800, and | one final question. Since I am overclocking the system, should i | change the timing settings on the ram, and should i also lock the mzh | to 33.3 like you were saying earlier? _____ Make sure you have the PCI bus speed locked to 33 MHz. As for the long string of numbers for the memory timings; if you overclock the memory (as you may do when raising the FrontSide Bus speed to overclock) the memory timings should be left at default, and may even need to be increased (relaxed, higher numbers) to keep the system stable. Increasing the memory timings settings will lower the performance of the memory, but the increase in clock speed will improve memory performance more than the increased memory timings will decrease performance. Remember, change only one thing at a time, and keep records. Start off with memory timings at default. Only AFTER you get the highest possible overclock that is stable default memory timings should you make changes in memory timing. Larger numbers for memory timing should increase the highest clock speed at which the memory will operate. But you may not need to use anything but the default timing. And don't even THINK about changing the memory timing settings until after a few months of operation. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message ... | Wow, these quote are getting pretty long. Phil, I can't thank you | enough for the help you have givin me through the past few days! I | checked the PS supply that i just bought and it is the ATX12V Ver. | 2.01 so there's no problem there. I know the other PS is fried cause | i also stuck it into a older comp that used the 20 pin and it didn't | do anything. So, the only thing left could be the mobo. | Now you said that there could be nothing wrong at all, and I would | HOPE SOO. The only thing is, what else could be causing this? I have | unhooked everything except ram, cpu, and gfx card. and tried booting, | with no success. And if all the components work on another mobo, the | only thing left is the mobo. I have read a lot lately, and still | nothing new has come up on what could be the problem. | And, seeing as there have been other incidents where the mobo has been | fried from a crappy PS, I think I've found the culprit. BUT, just to | make sure, I'm going to call up a comp store tomorrow and see if they | can test my mobo. (my friend can't test it) | I was wondering though phil, when i bought the ram it said its timings | were 5-5-5-10 and i went to change the timing settings myself in | the bios and there were 5 points like 5-5-5-10-4 and I don't know what | to set the last one at? My ram is OCZ Dual channel 512's DDR2-800, and | one final question. Since I am overclocking the system, should i | change the timing settings on the ram, and should i also lock the mzh | to 33.3 like you were saying earlier? |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Re-read the following link. http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan On Tue, 23 May 2006 21:01:45 GMT, "dawg" don't wrote: Did you use the CMOS jumper to return your mobo settings back to default? "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message om... So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working), the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't figure it out! If anyone can please get back to me with an idea, that would be great. I've cleared the RTC (like 7 times already by unplugging the power, pulling the tiny battery, and then switching the jumpers for 20 seconds then go back in reverse.) Still, i get nothing. I think the only logical reason is the motherboard must be shot . . . any takers? I also just tried swapping out the new PS with the old one, and it did the same thing it was doing before. With the old Power Supply, the computer doesn't even run. With the new PS it runs but no beep is heard, and no screen is brought up. So, after much reading, and much stress; I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a bad mobo after a electrical shock. I'm going to try one last thing, and that is to replace the cmos battery with a new one. Maybe it got messed up when the power shock happened. Anyway, your insight is much appriciated phil. I have read, and re-read the overclocking guide you posted. If you can, please help me out one last time :) Your comments are looked forward to. (sorry, bout the double post, but you said i should reply to your message. Only problem is i can only Quote it. So . . here. Phil Weldonwrote: 'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part: | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. _____ Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an identical system. Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system. Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially about the power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is working correctly. Without some way of checking the three components separately you are not going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the system; mainly the motherboard}). DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and experience. I can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis it, or at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU, power supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault. Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your system at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation at STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then try the original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step at a time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not do the first time around. Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'. Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct message; your reply should be to my message, not to the original post. Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning much. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message . .. | Phil, | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran exactly | the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot screen | or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot more | on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to make | sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has told | me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe wouldn't | fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new | coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its just | there was no boot screen or anything. | Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? | | Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by instructions, | and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within | seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, and | reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just stayed | on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat and | so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for your | help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Re-read the following link. http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan On Tue, 23 May 2006 22:34:56 GMT, lid (GLoBaLReBeL) wrote: Just an update . . . Went out and bought a new Asus P5wd2-E Premium Mobo, and tried starting it up . . only to find out it does the same ****ing THING!!! The only thing left now is the power supply, and IT BETTER BE THE ****ING PROBLEM!!!! Going down to fry's to exchange for a new one. |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Re-read the following link. http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan On Tue, 23 May 2006 22:53:44 GMT, "Phil Weldon" wrote: 'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part: | Just an update . . . Went out and bought a new Asus P5wd2-E Premium | Mobo, and tried starting it up . . only to find out it does the same | ****ing THING!!! The only thing left now is the power supply, and IT | BETTER BE THE ****ING PROBLEM!!!! Going down to fry's to exchange for | a new one. _____ Remember what I posted? "So take a deep breath and relax. Make the necessary checks before purchasing anything. Do NOT assume that your original power supply was deficient. Do NOT assume that the problem is with your motherboard, and do NOT assume it is with either or both power supplies." Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message ... | Just an update . . . Went out and bought a new Asus P5wd2-E Premium | Mobo, and tried starting it up . . only to find out it does the same | ****ing THING!!! The only thing left now is the power supply, and IT | BETTER BE THE ****ING PROBLEM!!!! Going down to fry's to exchange for | a new one. | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Re-read the following link. http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan On Tue, 23 May 2006 23:05:22 GMT, "Phil Weldon" wrote: 'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part: | I was wondering though phil, when i bought the ram it said its timings | were 5-5-5-10 and i went to change the timing settings myself in | the bios and there were 5 points like 5-5-5-10-4 and I don't know what | to set the last one at? My ram is OCZ Dual channel 512's DDR2-800, and | one final question. Since I am overclocking the system, should i | change the timing settings on the ram, and should i also lock the mzh | to 33.3 like you were saying earlier? _____ Make sure you have the PCI bus speed locked to 33 MHz. As for the long string of numbers for the memory timings; if you overclock the memory (as you may do when raising the FrontSide Bus speed to overclock) the memory timings should be left at default, and may even need to be increased (relaxed, higher numbers) to keep the system stable. Increasing the memory timings settings will lower the performance of the memory, but the increase in clock speed will improve memory performance more than the increased memory timings will decrease performance. Remember, change only one thing at a time, and keep records. Start off with memory timings at default. Only AFTER you get the highest possible overclock that is stable default memory timings should you make changes in memory timing. Larger numbers for memory timing should increase the highest clock speed at which the memory will operate. But you may not need to use anything but the default timing. And don't even THINK about changing the memory timing settings until after a few months of operation. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message ... | Wow, these quote are getting pretty long. Phil, I can't thank you | enough for the help you have givin me through the past few days! I | checked the PS supply that i just bought and it is the ATX12V Ver. | 2.01 so there's no problem there. I know the other PS is fried cause | i also stuck it into a older comp that used the 20 pin and it didn't | do anything. So, the only thing left could be the mobo. | Now you said that there could be nothing wrong at all, and I would | HOPE SOO. The only thing is, what else could be causing this? I have | unhooked everything except ram, cpu, and gfx card. and tried booting, | with no success. And if all the components work on another mobo, the | only thing left is the mobo. I have read a lot lately, and still | nothing new has come up on what could be the problem. | And, seeing as there have been other incidents where the mobo has been | fried from a crappy PS, I think I've found the culprit. BUT, just to | make sure, I'm going to call up a comp store tomorrow and see if they | can test my mobo. (my friend can't test it) | I was wondering though phil, when i bought the ram it said its timings | were 5-5-5-10 and i went to change the timing settings myself in | the bios and there were 5 points like 5-5-5-10-4 and I don't know what | to set the last one at? My ram is OCZ Dual channel 512's DDR2-800, and | one final question. Since I am overclocking the system, should i | change the timing settings on the ram, and should i also lock the mzh | to 33.3 like you were saying earlier? |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
My overclocked D 805 (3.32GHz/166MHz) runs at 45c when doing web browsing.
Stock Intel Heatsink/Fan. "2" wrote in message ... Re-read the following link. http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan On Tue, 23 May 2006 21:01:45 GMT, "dawg" don't wrote: Did you use the CMOS jumper to return your mobo settings back to default? "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message . com... So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working), the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't figure it out! If anyone can please get back to me with an idea, that would be great. I've cleared the RTC (like 7 times already by unplugging the power, pulling the tiny battery, and then switching the jumpers for 20 seconds then go back in reverse.) Still, i get nothing. I think the only logical reason is the motherboard must be shot . . . any takers? I also just tried swapping out the new PS with the old one, and it did the same thing it was doing before. With the old Power Supply, the computer doesn't even run. With the new PS it runs but no beep is heard, and no screen is brought up. So, after much reading, and much stress; I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a bad mobo after a electrical shock. I'm going to try one last thing, and that is to replace the cmos battery with a new one. Maybe it got messed up when the power shock happened. Anyway, your insight is much appriciated phil. I have read, and re-read the overclocking guide you posted. If you can, please help me out one last time :) Your comments are looked forward to. (sorry, bout the double post, but you said i should reply to your message. Only problem is i can only Quote it. So . . here. Phil Weldonwrote: 'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part: | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. _____ Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an identical system. Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system. Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially about the power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is working correctly. Without some way of checking the three components separately you are not going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the system; mainly the motherboard}). DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and experience. I can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis it, or at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU, power supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault. Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your system at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation at STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then try the original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step at a time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not do the first time around. Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'. Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct message; your reply should be to my message, not to the original post. Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning much. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message . .. | Phil, | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran exactly | the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot screen | or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot more | on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to make | sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has told | me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe wouldn't | fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new | coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its just | there was no boot screen or anything. | Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? | | Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by instructions, | and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within | seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, and | reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just stayed | on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat and | so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for your | help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. | |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
That's weird!!! Why does my 2.66 sit at 45C when web browsing. And if
i overclock to 3.33 ghz, then I get around 51C web browsing. I am even using teh Zalman cooler in the TomsHardware. I even used Arctic 5!!! It says it needs like 100 or 200 running hours or something for it to really start working, but I would think that it would be much lower then with the stock fan! I don't know. . . ALSO!!! I found out that it was actually the Power Supply I bought. It was a Version 2.01 when I need the Version 2.2. Thanx for giving me that link Phil!!! But, u didn't answer one question of mine. When I am setting the timing 5-5-5-10 what do i do with the LAST NUMBER? the 5-5-5-10-(4) where 4 is the last one. Just wondering. . . todwrote: My overclocked D 805 (3.32GHz/166MHz) runs at 45c when doing web browsing. Stock Intel Heatsink/Fan. "2" wrote in message ... Re-read the following link. http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan On Tue, 23 May 2006 21:01:45 GMT, "dawg" don't wrote: Did you use the CMOS jumper to return your mobo settings back to default? "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message m... So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working), the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't figure it out! If anyone can please get back to me with an idea, that would be great. I've cleared the RTC (like 7 times already by unplugging the power, pulling the tiny battery, and then switching the jumpers for 20 seconds then go back in reverse.) Still, i get nothing. I think the only logical reason is the motherboard must be shot . . . any takers? I also just tried swapping out the new PS with the old one, and it did the same thing it was doing before. With the old Power Supply, the computer doesn't even run. With the new PS it runs but no beep is heard, and no screen is brought up. So, after much reading, and much stress; I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a bad mobo after a electrical shock. I'm going to try one last thing, and that is to replace the cmos battery with a new one. Maybe it got messed up when the power shock happened. Anyway, your insight is much appriciated phil. I have read, and re-read the overclocking guide you posted. If you can, please help me out one last time :) Your comments are looked forward to. (sorry, bout the double post, but you said i should reply to your message. Only problem is i can only Quote it. So . . here. Phil Weldonwrote: 'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part: | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. _____ Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an identical system. Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system. Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially about the power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is working correctly. Without some way of checking the three components separately you are not going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the system; mainly the motherboard}). DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and experience. I can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis it, or at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU, power supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault. Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your system at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation at STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then try the original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step at a time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not do the first time around. Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'. Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct message; your reply should be to my message, not to the original post. Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning much. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message . .. | Phil, | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran exactly | the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot screen | or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot more | on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to make | sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has told | me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe wouldn't | fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new | coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its just | there was no boot screen or anything. | Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? | | Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by instructions, | and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within | seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, and | reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just stayed | on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat and | so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for your | help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. | [/quote:8838d0994d] |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
And guess what . . . My Motherboard isn't supported in the support
list for the MotherBoard Monitor 5. :( Is there anyway to get it to work? |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Does anyone here know of a program that will read my temps on the comp
accuratly? Asus p5wd2 Premium |
D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'GLoBaLRebel' wrote:
| Does anyone here know of a program that will read my temps on the comp | accuratly? Asus p5wd2 Premium _____ Read the manual. And by the way, using an ATX12V ver. 2.01 with your motherboard is ok. After all, the P5WD2 Premium was designed before the ATX12V ver. 2.2 specification and there is essentially no difference between the ATX12V ver. 2.01 and ATX12V ver. 2.2. Read more, buy less. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message . .. | Does anyone here know of a program that will read my temps on the comp | accuratly? Asus p5wd2 Premium | |
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