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#1
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Anyone opened a slot 1 cartridge?
Can anyone please tell me how easy it is to open the external casing on a
slot 1 cartridge? Thanks, Dan. |
#2
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"Daniel" wrote in message ... Can anyone please tell me how easy it is to open the external casing on a slot 1 cartridge? Why? You can't just take out the processor. But have you opened up an old HDD? The components are quite beautiful. ss. |
#3
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"Daniel" wrote in message ... Can anyone please tell me how easy it is to open the external casing on a slot 1 cartridge? Thanks, Dan. Take a flat-head screwdriver and pry around the edges. It IS difficult to do (if you haven't done it before). Make sure you avoid using the PCB for leverage... -- "I don't cheat to survive. I cheat to LIVE!!" - Alceryes |
#4
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Alceryes loudly proclaimed to the world that:
"Daniel" wrote in message Take a flat-head screwdriver and pry around the edges. It IS difficult to do (if you haven't done it before). Make sure you avoid using the PCB for leverage... If it's a P3 ( I never opened a P2, I don't recall if they are the same), then you have to punch out the pins holding it together..this should help http://www.1coolpc.com/install/p3.htm -- Mikey http://www.mike721.com |
#5
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"Daniel" wrote in message ... Can anyone please tell me how easy it is to open the external casing on a slot 1 cartridge? Thanks, Dan. yes it's easy, don't be scared |
#6
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On Fri, 5 Sep 2003 10:43:12 -0400, "Mikey" wrote:
Alceryes loudly proclaimed to the world that: "Daniel" wrote in message Take a flat-head screwdriver and pry around the edges. It IS difficult to do (if you haven't done it before). Make sure you avoid using the PCB for leverage... If it's a P3 ( I never opened a P2, I don't recall if they are the same), then you have to punch out the pins holding it together..this should help http://www.1coolpc.com/install/p3.htm The P2 has only 4 plastic friction-studs going though the corners. A prying on the edge where the two cartridge halfs meet is possible. One of the studs is a much harder stud to pry apart, being a tight stud-to-round-hole mating instead of a stud-to-oval-hole like the other 3. I may be wrong about that, my memory of it is a bit vague. Hmm, I have an old P2 I keep meaning to open up to cannabalize it for it's heatsink, maybe I'll do that and post a pic (if i can find the old thing). Dave |
#7
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On Fri, 05 Sep 2003 18:34:49 GMT, kony wrote:
On Fri, 5 Sep 2003 10:43:12 -0400, "Mikey" wrote: Alceryes loudly proclaimed to the world that: "Daniel" wrote in message Take a flat-head screwdriver and pry around the edges. It IS difficult to do (if you haven't done it before). Make sure you avoid using the PCB for leverage... If it's a P3 ( I never opened a P2, I don't recall if they are the same), then you have to punch out the pins holding it together..this should help http://www.1coolpc.com/install/p3.htm The P2 has only 4 plastic friction-studs going though the corners. A prying on the edge where the two cartridge halfs meet is possible. One of the studs is a much harder stud to pry apart, being a tight stud-to-round-hole mating instead of a stud-to-oval-hole like the other 3. I may be wrong about that, my memory of it is a bit vague. Hmm, I have an old P2 I keep meaning to open up to cannabalize it for it's heatsink, maybe I'll do that and post a pic (if i can find the old thing). Correction - A couple of P2 here have 4 metal studs, pressed into the aluminum heat-spreader which is in-between the core and outer heatsink. All 4 metal studs are inset from the edge of the spreader by approx 9mm, passing though holes in the CPU PCB. The bottom studs on each side are 5mm from the bottom of the spreader. The top studs are 14-15mm from the top edge of the spreader (in the middle, not where it tapers down at the ends). These measurements are pretty close but maybe off by +-1mm, you can probably find the exact measurements from Intel's spec sheets. Unless you have an elaborate prying tool it looks like the best attack on a p2 cartridge is to just slip a screwdriver blade in-between the plastic and spreader, no futher than 3mm in to avoid damaging the PCB, and pry at almost 1cm from the bottom and 1.5cm from the top on both sides. Dave |
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