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#1
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Computer doesnt start at all
Hi!
I have a problem with my stupid Computer. When I push the on-Button nothing happens except that sometimes the Power-LED goes green and immidiately goes off again. I checked every single cable, also inside of it and everything is ok. What can this possibly be??? I working on this for weeks now... Thanx in advance Rob |
#2
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Bad power supply maybe?
"Robin" wrote in message .. . Hi! I have a problem with my stupid Computer. When I push the on-Button nothing happens except that sometimes the Power-LED goes green and immidiately goes off again. I checked every single cable, also inside of it and everything is ok. What can this possibly be??? I working on this for weeks now... Thanx in advance Rob |
#3
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"Robin" wrote in message .. . Hi! I have a problem with my stupid Computer. When I push the on-Button nothing happens except that sometimes the Power-LED goes green and immidiately goes off again. I checked every single cable, also inside of it and everything is ok. What can this possibly be??? I working on this for weeks now... It's broken. Ok... Most likely bad mainboard or bad power supply. Power supply would be the easiest thing to swap out. It *COULD* be a bad power switch, but since it does do stuff sometimes I doubt it. |
#4
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I second that. I've been through 3 in one year so far...
"Cathy De Viney" wrote in message ... Bad power supply maybe? "Robin" wrote in message .. . Hi! I have a problem with my stupid Computer. When I push the on-Button nothing happens except that sometimes the Power-LED goes green and immidiately goes off again. I checked every single cable, also inside of it and everything is ok. What can this possibly be??? I working on this for weeks now... Thanx in advance Rob |
#5
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Unplug everything from the power supply except for your HD...maybe it is too
weak to power floppy, zip CD, DVD, etc. If that works, get a better/bigger power supply. Maybe your computer came with a 250W and you have added stuff to your computer and "stressing" it? "Robin" wrote in message .. . Hi! I have a problem with my stupid Computer. When I push the on-Button nothing happens except that sometimes the Power-LED goes green and immidiately goes off again. I checked every single cable, also inside of it and everything is ok. What can this possibly be??? I working on this for weeks now... Thanx in advance Rob |
#6
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You don't care what could be reason for failure. That is
just wild speculation. First identify the defective part, and only then fix it. Start with three possible reasons for failure - power supply, motherboard, and switch. First, motherboard control circuits may lock out to protect from external power line events. The lockout is cleared by removing power cord from wall - not just power off. Identify the problem means an inexpensive and essential tool is required - 3.5 digit multimeter. With power cord restored, those motherboard control circuits require uninterrupted power. Measure voltage on purple wire (other meter probe on black ground wire) that connects power supply to motherboard. Voltage should be within limits and not in lowest quarter of those limits, as defined by chart in: http://www.hardwaresite.net/faqpowersupply.html If motherboard control circuits have power: motherboard control circuit orders power supply on and off via green wire. Power supply should be off when voltage is above 2.4 volts. Power supply on when voltage drops to below 0.7 volts (when power switch is pressed). If motherboard control circuit does not responde, then multimeter can verify that power switch functions as a pushbutton (is not getting stuck in the on position). Next are the output voltages from power supply. Red (+5 V), orange (+3.3 V), and yellow (+12 V) wires must see a rising voltage. If any of these voltages is not available, then power supply cuts off other voltages. IOW with multimeter, monitor each voltage as power switch is pressed. Do they rise up and meet limits in that above table? Failure to maintain those voltages could be due to a motherboard or other component short circuit, or because a 'bean counter' supply cannot provide sufficient power on one voltage. Latter problem discussed in: http://firingsquad.gamers.com/guides/power/default.asp and so often demonstrated by: http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/0...pplies-15.html No simple away around using this 3.5 digit multimeter especially when meter is so inexpensive and identifies failures so quickly. Unfortunately many cannot be bothered to learn why failures happen. They speculate. They shotgun: keep replacing components until something works. They may also recommend 400-500 watt supplies rather than first learn why that $40 supply could not provide only 200+ watts that most computers really need. Select a power supply using a 'bean counter' mentality or using value. Power supplies typically don't fail when value is the criteria. But too many buy power supplies based only upon one specification - price. Minimally acceptable power supplies start at $80 retail (although some $80 supplies can be found at discount). Overseas suppliers have learned how to increase profits by selling to bean counters those $40 supplies. Supplies that are routinely missing essential functions such as overvoltage protection and EMI/RFI filtering. IOW a power supply that meets Intel requirements cannot damage other computer components. Not true of too many $40 supplies that don't meet those Intel specs. Furthermore, many 300 watt $40 supplies cannot even meet that power which is why so many bean counters recommend 400 and 500 watt supplies. A bean counter's supply does not provide a long paper list of specifications because bean counters don't demand important specifications such as: Specification compliance: ATX 2.03 & ATX12V v1.1 Acoustics noise 25.8dBA typical at 70w, 30cm Short circuit protection on all outputs Over voltage protection Over power protection 100% hi-pot test 100% burn in, high temperature cycled on/off PFC harmonics compliance: EN61000-3-2 + A1 + A2 EMI/RFI compliance: CE, CISPR22 & FCC part 15 class B Safety compliance: VDE, TUV, D, N, S, Fi, UL, C-UL & CB Hold up time, full load: 16ms. typical Efficiency; 100-120VAC and full range: 65% Dielectric withstand, input to frame/ground: 1800VAC, 1sec. Dielectric withstand, input to output: 1800VAC, 1sec. Ripple/noise: 1% MTBF, full load @ 25°C amb.: 100k hrs No specs means a supply probably is missing essential functions - which is why it can sell for less than $80 - at higher profit. Procedure defined above using 3.5 digit multimeter identifies a problem in minutes. Shotgun solutions take far longer. And then a criteria to select replacement parts: on price or on value. Minimally acceptable supplies provide a long list of specifications - including those listed above. Robin wrote: I have a problem with my stupid Computer. When I push the on-Button nothing happens except that sometimes the Power-LED goes green and immidiately goes off again. I checked every single cable, also inside of it and everything is ok. What can this possibly be??? I working on this for weeks now... Thanx in advance Rob |
#7
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"Robin" wrote in message .. . Hi! I have a problem with my stupid Computer. When I push the on-Button nothing happens except that sometimes the Power-LED goes green and immidiately goes off again. I checked every single cable, also inside of it and everything is ok. What can this possibly be??? I working on this for weeks now... Thanx in advance Rob Try a different power cord. borrow the monitors if you don't have a spare. If the power lite stays on, walla...BobV |
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