If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
ARGH!
"Some One" wrote in message . ca... I swear... computers are spying on us. Not 60 seconds after I post about my wife's PC acting up my own PC freezes. Upon reboot it complains about CMOS settings and crashes within seconds after getting booted into Windows XP. I've reset my CMOS to what it should be and the PC is fine now. BLECH. Looking at my BIOS and MBM readings, my 12v seems high at 12.91v. Other voltages a 5v = 4.93v 3.3v = 3.29v -5v = -4.85v -12v = -11.79v Core0 = 1.79v (CMOS set for 1.77 and I can't change it) Core1 = 2.58v and I don't recall what the CMOS reported (or if it was even there) PSU is a decent quality brand (which I can't remember at the moment). CPU Temp is showing 54'C in MBM. CPU is an AMD TBird 1300. It was quite warm today, but I did not use the PC at all while it was hot outside, so that shouldn't make a difference. Mainboard is an ESC K7VTA3 that I've had for months and have never had a problem with. - Is heat a problem for a PSU even when not in use? - Many PSU's have one or more POTs to adjust voltages. Usually adjusting one voltage messes up another (ie, if I lower my 12.91v down to 12v my 4.93v would drop to around 4v - not good). Are there any components in the PSU that I can replace to do the same the and compensate for the difference? (ie, different value resistor, or use a higher wattage or better grade?) I've pulled VLSI chips from mainboards and resoldered replacements successfully, so soldering is not an issue here. ...Definately looking forward to Christmas. Wife and I promised that we'd replace *ALL* the computer gear at the end of the year. Too many upgrades with old parts, new parts, questionable parts... Where are they all now? i've done some benchmark tests and varied vcore voltage and found that a few hundredths of a volt don't make any difference...so i doubt if you have a problem with your ps since both computers malfunctioned at the same time it's possible there was a power surge of some type. maybe you should put the machines on a UPS |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
snip
Not 60 seconds after I post about my wife's PC acting up my own PC freezes. Upon reboot it complains about CMOS settings and crashes within seconds after getting booted into Windows XP. I've reset my CMOS to what it should be and the PC is fine now. BLECH. Looking at my BIOS and MBM readings, my 12v seems high at 12.91v. Other voltages a 5v = 4.93v 3.3v = 3.29v -5v = -4.85v -12v = -11.79v Core0 = 1.79v (CMOS set for 1.77 and I can't change it) Core1 = 2.58v and I don't recall what the CMOS reported (or if it was even there) snip i've done some benchmark tests and varied vcore voltage and found that a few hundredths of a volt don't make any difference...so i doubt if you have a problem with your ps But the 12v was ONE WHOLE VOLT higher than it should be. since both computers malfunctioned at the same time it's possible there was a power surge of some type. maybe you should put the machines on a UPS Wifes PC has been acting up for about a week. My PC had problems just the one time and seems fine today. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 05:19:26 GMT, "Some One"
wrote: I swear... computers are spying on us. Let's not be paranoid... it's more likely someone has programmed all your computers to spy on you, the computer had little choice in the matter. ;-) Not 60 seconds after I post about my wife's PC acting up my own PC freezes. Upon reboot it complains about CMOS settings and crashes within seconds after getting booted into Windows XP. I've reset my CMOS to what it should be and the PC is fine now. BLECH. Looking at my BIOS and MBM readings, my 12v seems high at 12.91v. Yes that's a bit high, but, still within 10% spec, and 12V rail/components are the most tolerant of different voltage, predominantly it powers motors that either reduce in RPM like a fan, or have RPM monitor funciton to adjust speed to precise RPM. The major problems with 12V rail are typically when it's UNDER too far, the HDDs won't have spun up, be ready when the BIOS tries to detect. Other voltages a 5v = 4.93v 3.3v = 3.29v -5v = -4.85v -12v = -11.79v Core0 = 1.79v (CMOS set for 1.77 and I can't change it) Core1 = 2.58v and I don't recall what the CMOS reported (or if it was even there) PSU is a decent quality brand (which I can't remember at the moment). Maybe, but I'd expect a decent PSU to be a little more accurate, is it high enough capacity or perhaps in order to keep the 5V rail up, which IS monitored, it's raising the 12V rail as consequence. _IF_ this is the problem, the quesiton might be, why is the 5V rail so loaded? Do you have very demanding components beyond the processor? After reading ahead I also supect something else, mentioned next. CPU Temp is showing 54'C in MBM. CPU is an AMD TBird 1300. It was quite warm today, but I did not use the PC at all while it was hot outside, so that shouldn't make a difference. Mainboard is an ESC K7VTA3 that I've had for months and have never had a problem with. Does it have the row of mosfets on the left side of the CPU socket, right next to and doing a great job of heating up a row of potentially-defective Luxon capacitors? I've seen a few ECS boards with those caps blown. Replacing them resolved the problem, but it's hard to make this kind of speculation without visable signs of venting/residue/swollen/etc. - Is heat a problem for a PSU even when not in use? If it's VERY hot, and the PSU isn't turned on, it's 5VSB rail is still producing a bit of heat, so possibly this heat could build up and accelerate the PSU's demise, but I'd expect it to take quite a while for this to happen, would look elsewhere for a problem first. - Many PSU's have one or more POTs to adjust voltages. Usually adjusting one voltage messes up another (ie, if I lower my 12.91v down to 12v my 4.93v would drop to around 4v - not good). Are there any components in the PSU that I can replace to do the same the and compensate for the difference? (ie, different value resistor, or use a higher wattage or better grade?) I've pulled VLSI chips from mainboards and resoldered replacements successfully, so soldering is not an issue here. Sure, there's a fairly simple way to do it, but likley not an easy way to implement it on the circuit board. You could just put a diode or two (of adequate amperage) in the circuit after the inductor. There isn't an easy way to accomplish this on most tightly-packed power supplies, and it's not something I'd suggest doing, instead the PSU should be replaced or whatever other problem resolved. ...Definately looking forward to Christmas. Wife and I promised that we'd replace *ALL* the computer gear at the end of the year. Too many upgrades with old parts, new parts, questionable parts... Where are they all now? LCD (or OLED!!!), SATA, Gigabyte ethernet (Where do you get a cheap gigabit switch???), ultra fast video, writable DVD... All looks like fun! Will CD drives use SATA? ... argh! Keeping up makes a person dizzy! I"m sure optical drives will go SATA too, but for now I enjoy the incredibly low prices when the excess parallel-interfaced drives get dumped in the US. Dave |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|