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Mouse Woes
Long explanation, TIA.
I have the Microsoft Wireless Optical Desktop (Wireless Optical Mouse and Microsoft Wireless Multimedia Keyboard). The issue that I am having is: Doing stuff fine on the computer, la di da, I don't use the mouse for a little while, then go to move it.. and it does not respond. Interesting. So I click. It then works fine.. until i don't move it again. So I flip the sucker upside down and try and get a little more technical about it. I set a timer and wait. After 60 seconds of inactivity, the laser dims, then starts flickering. At this point the cursur will not move until I click. Ok, some sort of battery saving standby, I assume, but it should be taken out of standby from movement as well as from a click. (I've installed the latest intellipoint and intellitype software from windows). Microsofts knowledgebase has an article that kind of describes this issue... but it's solution is wiping my mouse from registry and reinstalling. Honestly I hate messing with my registry when I don't have to, especially when I don't know if that is the actual issue. Any other ideas? Thanks again for reading. ~Chris Martin |
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"Chris Martin" said in
t: Long explanation, TIA. I have the Microsoft Wireless Optical Desktop (Wireless Optical Mouse and Microsoft Wireless Multimedia Keyboard). The issue that I am having is: Doing stuff fine on the computer, la di da, I don't use the mouse for a little while, then go to move it.. and it does not respond. Interesting. So I click. It then works fine.. until i don't move it again. So I flip the sucker upside down and try and get a little more technical about it. I set a timer and wait. After 60 seconds of inactivity, the laser dims, then starts flickering. At this point the cursur will not move until I click. Ok, some sort of battery saving standby, I assume, but it should be taken out of standby from movement as well as from a click. (I've installed the latest intellipoint and intellitype software from windows). Microsofts knowledgebase has an article that kind of describes this issue... but it's solution is wiping my mouse from registry and reinstalling. Honestly I hate messing with my registry when I don't have to, especially when I don't know if that is the actual issue. Any other ideas? Thanks again for reading. ~Chris Martin My Logitech cordless went dead (after I tossed it across the room in a fit during gaming). So I trialed several other cordless mice to see if any were better. I tried the IBM cordless. Didn't like it because it goes into sleep mode mode too quickly. The Logitech doesn't go to sleep until about a minute after no movement, and it comes out of sleep much quicker because it polls (blinks) much more often while sleeping (i.e., it peeks its eyelid open more often to see if it is being moved). There is no inertial sensors in the mice to detect when to wake up out of low-power mode to prolong battery life. How often then peek to check for movement dictates how quickly they will come out of sleep mode. IBM was slowest. Microsoft's was faster. Logitech's was fastest. However, the more it peeks the more juice it uses from the battery so battery life for the Logitech is shorter. That's why I bought 2 sets of rechargeable NimH batteries so one is always ready when the inuse set gets too low on juice. I also found the IBM and Microsoft more jerky in movement than the Logitech, especially in games. I tried editing the mouse properties to speed up the sample or poll rate but that didn't help much. In fact, with the IBM (and to a lesser degree the Microsoft) cordless mouse, the cursor would actually stall or even move in the opposite direction with extreme fast whips of the mouse across the desk. Although you can up the sample rate for the mouse driver, I don't think this affects the hardware poll rate between the mouse and the receiver unit. When I had to replace my cordless mouse, the reason I looked at the IBM and Microsoft was that they are lighter in weight than the Logitech. My pinkie gets tired squeezing the mouse to push it around or when lifting it. I've tried several trackballs (I like them better than mice). I somewhat like the Kensington Expert Mouse because of its large ball that rolls freely on steel rollers with ball bearings (the ball can be replaced with a snooker ball if the kids take the original) but I never quite liked the buttons at the side of the ball instead of slightly ahead where my fingers would be, and I didn't like the reverse tilt that cocked my wrist upward. But it was the most durable and smooth trackball I've ever had. Their other trackballs suck: too much resistance, the ball won't keep spinning when you flick it, and they don't feel right. I eventually went to a mouse only because I could get cordless mice; otherwise, I'd still be using a trackball (although the Expert Mouse is pricey). With the trackball, I wasn't moving it all over the desk and so my pinkie wouldn't tire like when squeezing a mouse to move it around or lift it. The IBM was lighter so I tried it first. Too jerky in games, stalled or reversed direction when snapping the mouse quickly but only occurred in one direction (don't recall which), and kept going to sleep way too soon and took too long to wake up. Microsoft was a bit heavier but still lighter than the Logitech, so I tried it next but it went to sleep too soon and took too long to wake up (shorter than the IBM but longer than Logitech) and would sometimes stall or jerk when rapidly slid across the desk. So I ended up going back to the Logitech which was the heaviest of the three. So while the Logitech doesn't last as long before the batteries get too low for reliable performance or when it goes completely dead, I still find it a better mouse than IBM's cordless mouse and Microsoft's blue cordless mouse. Batteries don't last as long in the Logitech and it is heavier than the others but it does move smooth, doesn't go to sleep as soon, comes out of sleep quicker, and the battery cover is much easier to remove and replace than the others (especially important since the batteries have to be replaced after 15 to 22 days). Although these use RF instead of infrared to communicate between mouse and receiver unit, you still should not have anything between them that will shield the signal, like the monitor or system case. Also, after replacing the batteries, be sure to hit the reset button on the bottom of the mouse and the reset button on the receiver to make sure they are in sync. Otherwise, when not synched, I've seen jerky movement of the mouse cursor or none at all. -- __________________________________________________ __________ *** Post replies to newsgroup. E-mail is not accepted. *** __________________________________________________ __________ |
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It actually did turn out to be the batteries. The old batteries were going
low on juice, so I replaced them with practically fresh batteries (took them out of my digital camera which told me they had full charge still), and put them into my mouse. The mouse didn't like them. SO after calling microsoft tech support, trying the mouse on multiple computers, etc. etc., I changed the batteries back to the old one and it worked again. Peachy. So I put the new ones back in and then they wanted to work.. Maybe they weren't set right. On another note, I've seen some insane gaming on trackballs, but I could never get used to them myself, I have a few of them, thinking about thowing one of them on a computer and attempting to get used to it. Thanks for the response, ~Chris "*Vanguard*" wrote in message news:irKPb.119210$I06.902341@attbi_s01... "Chris Martin" said in t: Long explanation, TIA. I have the Microsoft Wireless Optical Desktop (Wireless Optical Mouse and Microsoft Wireless Multimedia Keyboard). The issue that I am having is: Doing stuff fine on the computer, la di da, I don't use the mouse for a little while, then go to move it.. and it does not respond. Interesting. So I click. It then works fine.. until i don't move it again. So I flip the sucker upside down and try and get a little more technical about it. I set a timer and wait. After 60 seconds of inactivity, the laser dims, then starts flickering. At this point the cursur will not move until I click. Ok, some sort of battery saving standby, I assume, but it should be taken out of standby from movement as well as from a click. (I've installed the latest intellipoint and intellitype software from windows). Microsofts knowledgebase has an article that kind of describes this issue... but it's solution is wiping my mouse from registry and reinstalling. Honestly I hate messing with my registry when I don't have to, especially when I don't know if that is the actual issue. Any other ideas? Thanks again for reading. ~Chris Martin My Logitech cordless went dead (after I tossed it across the room in a fit during gaming). So I trialed several other cordless mice to see if any were better. I tried the IBM cordless. Didn't like it because it goes into sleep mode mode too quickly. The Logitech doesn't go to sleep until about a minute after no movement, and it comes out of sleep much quicker because it polls (blinks) much more often while sleeping (i.e., it peeks its eyelid open more often to see if it is being moved). There is no inertial sensors in the mice to detect when to wake up out of low-power mode to prolong battery life. How often then peek to check for movement dictates how quickly they will come out of sleep mode. IBM was slowest. Microsoft's was faster. Logitech's was fastest. However, the more it peeks the more juice it uses from the battery so battery life for the Logitech is shorter. That's why I bought 2 sets of rechargeable NimH batteries so one is always ready when the inuse set gets too low on juice. I also found the IBM and Microsoft more jerky in movement than the Logitech, especially in games. I tried editing the mouse properties to speed up the sample or poll rate but that didn't help much. In fact, with the IBM (and to a lesser degree the Microsoft) cordless mouse, the cursor would actually stall or even move in the opposite direction with extreme fast whips of the mouse across the desk. Although you can up the sample rate for the mouse driver, I don't think this affects the hardware poll rate between the mouse and the receiver unit. When I had to replace my cordless mouse, the reason I looked at the IBM and Microsoft was that they are lighter in weight than the Logitech. My pinkie gets tired squeezing the mouse to push it around or when lifting it. I've tried several trackballs (I like them better than mice). I somewhat like the Kensington Expert Mouse because of its large ball that rolls freely on steel rollers with ball bearings (the ball can be replaced with a snooker ball if the kids take the original) but I never quite liked the buttons at the side of the ball instead of slightly ahead where my fingers would be, and I didn't like the reverse tilt that cocked my wrist upward. But it was the most durable and smooth trackball I've ever had. Their other trackballs suck: too much resistance, the ball won't keep spinning when you flick it, and they don't feel right. I eventually went to a mouse only because I could get cordless mice; otherwise, I'd still be using a trackball (although the Expert Mouse is pricey). With the trackball, I wasn't moving it all over the desk and so my pinkie wouldn't tire like when squeezing a mouse to move it around or lift it. The IBM was lighter so I tried it first. Too jerky in games, stalled or reversed direction when snapping the mouse quickly but only occurred in one direction (don't recall which), and kept going to sleep way too soon and took too long to wake up. Microsoft was a bit heavier but still lighter than the Logitech, so I tried it next but it went to sleep too soon and took too long to wake up (shorter than the IBM but longer than Logitech) and would sometimes stall or jerk when rapidly slid across the desk. So I ended up going back to the Logitech which was the heaviest of the three. So while the Logitech doesn't last as long before the batteries get too low for reliable performance or when it goes completely dead, I still find it a better mouse than IBM's cordless mouse and Microsoft's blue cordless mouse. Batteries don't last as long in the Logitech and it is heavier than the others but it does move smooth, doesn't go to sleep as soon, comes out of sleep quicker, and the battery cover is much easier to remove and replace than the others (especially important since the batteries have to be replaced after 15 to 22 days). Although these use RF instead of infrared to communicate between mouse and receiver unit, you still should not have anything between them that will shield the signal, like the monitor or system case. Also, after replacing the batteries, be sure to hit the reset button on the bottom of the mouse and the reset button on the receiver to make sure they are in sync. Otherwise, when not synched, I've seen jerky movement of the mouse cursor or none at all. -- __________________________________________________ __________ *** Post replies to newsgroup. E-mail is not accepted. *** __________________________________________________ __________ |
#4
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"Chris Martin" said in
t: It actually did turn out to be the batteries. The old batteries were going low on juice, so I replaced them with practically fresh batteries (took them out of my digital camera which told me they had full charge still), and put them into my mouse. The mouse didn't like them. SO after calling microsoft tech support, trying the mouse on multiple computers, etc. etc., I changed the batteries back to the old one and it worked again. Peachy. So I put the new ones back in and then they wanted to work.. Maybe they weren't set right. On another note, I've seen some insane gaming on trackballs, but I could never get used to them myself, I have a few of them, thinking about thowing one of them on a computer and attempting to get used to it. Thanks for the response, ~Chris "*Vanguard*" wrote in message news:irKPb.119210$I06.902341@attbi_s01... "Chris Martin" said in t: Long explanation, TIA. I have the Microsoft Wireless Optical Desktop (Wireless Optical Mouse and Microsoft Wireless Multimedia Keyboard). The issue that I am having is: Doing stuff fine on the computer, la di da, I don't use the mouse for a little while, then go to move it.. and it does not respond. Interesting. So I click. It then works fine.. until i don't move it again. So I flip the sucker upside down and try and get a little more technical about it. I set a timer and wait. After 60 seconds of inactivity, the laser dims, then starts flickering. At this point the cursur will not move until I click. Ok, some sort of battery saving standby, I assume, but it should be taken out of standby from movement as well as from a click. (I've installed the latest intellipoint and intellitype software from windows). Microsofts knowledgebase has an article that kind of describes this issue... but it's solution is wiping my mouse from registry and reinstalling. Honestly I hate messing with my registry when I don't have to, especially when I don't know if that is the actual issue. Any other ideas? Thanks again for reading. ~Chris Martin My Logitech cordless went dead (after I tossed it across the room in a fit during gaming). So I trialed several other cordless mice to see if any were better. I tried the IBM cordless. Didn't like it because it goes into sleep mode mode too quickly. The Logitech doesn't go to sleep until about a minute after no movement, and it comes out of sleep much quicker because it polls (blinks) much more often while sleeping (i.e., it peeks its eyelid open more often to see if it is being moved). There is no inertial sensors in the mice to detect when to wake up out of low-power mode to prolong battery life. How often then peek to check for movement dictates how quickly they will come out of sleep mode. IBM was slowest. Microsoft's was faster. Logitech's was fastest. However, the more it peeks the more juice it uses from the battery so battery life for the Logitech is shorter. That's why I bought 2 sets of rechargeable NimH batteries so one is always ready when the inuse set gets too low on juice. I also found the IBM and Microsoft more jerky in movement than the Logitech, especially in games. I tried editing the mouse properties to speed up the sample or poll rate but that didn't help much. In fact, with the IBM (and to a lesser degree the Microsoft) cordless mouse, the cursor would actually stall or even move in the opposite direction with extreme fast whips of the mouse across the desk. Although you can up the sample rate for the mouse driver, I don't think this affects the hardware poll rate between the mouse and the receiver unit. When I had to replace my cordless mouse, the reason I looked at the IBM and Microsoft was that they are lighter in weight than the Logitech. My pinkie gets tired squeezing the mouse to push it around or when lifting it. I've tried several trackballs (I like them better than mice). I somewhat like the Kensington Expert Mouse because of its large ball that rolls freely on steel rollers with ball bearings (the ball can be replaced with a snooker ball if the kids take the original) but I never quite liked the buttons at the side of the ball instead of slightly ahead where my fingers would be, and I didn't like the reverse tilt that cocked my wrist upward. But it was the most durable and smooth trackball I've ever had. Their other trackballs suck: too much resistance, the ball won't keep spinning when you flick it, and they don't feel right. I eventually went to a mouse only because I could get cordless mice; otherwise, I'd still be using a trackball (although the Expert Mouse is pricey). With the trackball, I wasn't moving it all over the desk and so my pinkie wouldn't tire like when squeezing a mouse to move it around or lift it. The IBM was lighter so I tried it first. Too jerky in games, stalled or reversed direction when snapping the mouse quickly but only occurred in one direction (don't recall which), and kept going to sleep way too soon and took too long to wake up. Microsoft was a bit heavier but still lighter than the Logitech, so I tried it next but it went to sleep too soon and took too long to wake up (shorter than the IBM but longer than Logitech) and would sometimes stall or jerk when rapidly slid across the desk. So I ended up going back to the Logitech which was the heaviest of the three. So while the Logitech doesn't last as long before the batteries get too low for reliable performance or when it goes completely dead, I still find it a better mouse than IBM's cordless mouse and Microsoft's blue cordless mouse. Batteries don't last as long in the Logitech and it is heavier than the others but it does move smooth, doesn't go to sleep as soon, comes out of sleep quicker, and the battery cover is much easier to remove and replace than the others (especially important since the batteries have to be replaced after 15 to 22 days). Although these use RF instead of infrared to communicate between mouse and receiver unit, you still should not have anything between them that will shield the signal, like the monitor or system case. Also, after replacing the batteries, be sure to hit the reset button on the bottom of the mouse and the reset button on the receiver to make sure they are in sync. Otherwise, when not synched, I've seen jerky movement of the mouse cursor or none at all. -- __________________________________________________ __________ *** Post replies to newsgroup. E-mail is not accepted. *** __________________________________________________ __________ Because batteries do not last as long in Logitech cordless devices as they do in other cordless brands (because Logitech polls more often to check when to come out of sleep), you might consider buying another set of NimH batteries and a charger to charge them up and have ready when the current ones get drained. A trick is to NOT display Logitech's mouse tray icon. It has the behavior that when the batteries go low that it will popup an alert window. But if this popup is hidden, doesn't appear, or you close it but forget about it, the other behavior is that their mouse software will make their tray icon reappear. It gives you a hint that you need to check the mouse and its battery level. Once you exchange the batteries for the already charged pair, check the option to hide the mouse tray icon again. Then if you see the mouse tray icon later, it's time to replace the batteries again. -- __________________________________________________ __________ *** Post replies to newsgroup. E-mail is not accepted. *** __________________________________________________ __________ |
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