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how to use a Thermaltake 750W Toughpower PSU without motherboard
how to use a Thermaltake 750W Toughpower PSU with no motherboard
guys and girls, I know others have asked similar questiosn but this is a little different. THis powersupply has the works - sensing, min load and anything else you could imagine to make it hard to power on without a motherboard. My problem is i am trying to build a 20 drive external case that will not have montherboard in it. To power the drives i need a very large powersupply as the drive put all their startup load on the 12v line (close to 60A!). So i need this powersupply and i thought it would be easy to turn on by just shorting 2 pins but now i read the sensing needs to be shorted and loads put on some channels but not others etc. Can anyone help me work out exactly what i need to do to make this work? I will have a few fans on the 5v channela nd nothing on the 3.3v channel. Is there a device out there that will fix the sensing, shorting and load for me? Here is the info on the powersupply. http://www.pccasegear.com/prod3516.htm I hope someone can help. Seer |
#2
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how to use a Thermaltake 750W Toughpower PSU without motherboard
wrote in message oups.com... how to use a Thermaltake 750W Toughpower PSU with no motherboard guys and girls, I know others have asked similar questiosn but this is a little different. THis powersupply has the works - sensing, min load and anything else you could imagine to make it hard to power on without a motherboard. My problem is i am trying to build a 20 drive external case that will not have montherboard in it. To power the drives i need a very large powersupply as the drive put all their startup load on the 12v line (close to 60A!). So i need this powersupply and i thought it would be easy to turn on by just shorting 2 pins but now i read the sensing needs to be shorted and loads put on some channels but not others etc. Can anyone help me work out exactly what i need to do to make this work? I will have a few fans on the 5v channela nd nothing on the 3.3v channel. Is there a device out there that will fix the sensing, shorting and load for me? Here is the info on the powersupply. http://www.pccasegear.com/prod3516.htm I hope someone can help. Seer They do make power supply testers. Other than that, I'd probably just hook up an old dead mainboard to it. I mean, even if you don't intend to use a motherboard, your case probably has room for one, unless you are doing some kind of mod. -Dave http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817999011 |
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how to use a Thermaltake 750W Toughpower PSU without motherboard
kony,
Thanks for the reply. If i can get a cheaper server powersupply for around the same price i would be interested. Note that site link i gave you was an Australian PC store with $AU prices incase you were comparing to $US prices. I will look into it anyway. Sorry about the wording i used it seems like shorting etc were the wrong words to use though i still get a lot of the information that i wanted. On the link i posted before it states the min loads on all the channels. Am i correct in understanding that you think i may not need to meet the min load on all the channels? Will not meeting the min loa don a channel damage a PSU or jsut turn it off if it has monitoring? I don't have the PSU yet. I am looking at getting it today or tomorrow. I want to make sure i can use it the way i want to first. As to the HD loading the 5v channel as well as the 12v channel i am not so sure. I had the same expectation as you in that it would load both channels but if you look here http://www.seagate.com/cda/products/...85,765,00.html and the 320 sata II disk it lists 2.8 amps on the 12v rail and nothign on the 5v rail. It does say some watt's under that. maybe the watts are on the 5v rail but i thought they may be the 12v rail. Guess i am not too sure. interested in your view. I know you can get a cord that connects to the MB connector on your secondary power supply and will turn on your second power supply when your main one turns on. I thought of getting this but i was a little worried if it took into acount the sensing and min loads that the toughpower PSU may have. (Read somewhere that atx 2.2 compliant PSU should have sensing but that could be wrong) Thanks for the info on the resistors. Seer |
#5
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how to use a Thermaltake 750W Toughpower PSU without motherboard
On 12 Sep 2006 20:05:41 -0700,
wrote: kony, Thanks for the reply. If i can get a cheaper server powersupply for around the same price i would be interested. Note that site link i gave you was an Australian PC store with $AU prices incase you were comparing to $US prices. I will look into it anyway. Sorry about the wording i used it seems like shorting etc were the wrong words to use though i still get a lot of the information that i wanted. On the link i posted before it states the min loads on all the channels. Am i correct in understanding that you think i may not need to meet the min load on all the channels? Will not meeting the min loa don a channel damage a PSU or jsut turn it off if it has monitoring? I have not been inside that particular PSU so I can only generalize about it having the same common arrangement of electronic topology as many others. Minimum loads are spec'd to specify the environment under which the supply is supposed to keep the rail voltages within tolerance - in this case the ATX spec. If your 3.3V rail, which you don't need to use, were floating at a higher voltage than spec'd but you didn't need (use) that rail at all, it's not a problem per se unless the PSU is using sensing (feedback) on that rail as one point of it's safety/shutdown circuitry. Some PSU do use 3.3V, more often better quality ones, but even though that PSU has a lofty price, it might not be THAT high a quality unit to have it, or it might have so little real-estate inside that it was all they could do to squeeze what they did in. Considering 5V rail, certainly all those drives will exceed the 2A minimum, BUT, with such a high 12V current draw if the weighting on the switching controller has a 12V bias, it will tend to raise the 5V, voltage any/every time the 12V has a high load (should be an issue, IF it is, only at initial power-on, drive spin-up). IF the result was that the 5V rail rose too high, it could potentially trip the overvoltage protection but generally that trip point is high enough it wouldn't be a problem- so the best course of action here is to try it and be measuring the voltage with a multimeter if one is available, to determine if any load resistors are required. While there are multiple 12V rails, I doubt there are parallel feedback mechanisms, usually it's a pseudo-separate rail divided by internal resistors that act to limit current per rail... it might have separate rectifier diodes for the 12V rail if their current rating is correct,but we can't necessarily presume this as it could be (probably is to some extent) a peak rating for all the current on the 12V rails rather than sustained, and peak ratings for these rectification diodes are often far higher than 72A. I don't have the PSU yet. I am looking at getting it today or tomorrow. I want to make sure i can use it the way i want to first. I'm sure you can use it, though it does seem a bit pricey to me, I'd still investigate server supplies BUT they may be even more work to reverse engineer to get running/keep running, and then there's the difference in form factor, I don't know what kind of enclosure you'll be using for 20 drives. As to the HD loading the 5v channel as well as the 12v channel i am not so sure. Yes they do load the 5V, just not anywhere near the 2A or so the 12V may have for a moment during spin-up. I had the same expectation as you in that it would load both channels but if you look here http://www.seagate.com/cda/products/...85,765,00.html and the 320 sata II disk it lists 2.8 amps on the 12v rail and nothign on the 5v rail. It does say some watt's under that. maybe the watts are on the 5v rail but i thought they may be the 12v rail. Guess i am not too sure. interested in your view. Here's a picture of a Barracuda 7200.10 320GB, PATA label, essentially the PATA brother of the next link, http://www.pconline.com.cn/diy/marke...ate_320G_1.jpg 5V - 0.72A 12V - 0.52A Here's a picture of a Barracuda 7200.10 320GB, SATA label, http://www.beareyes.com.cn/2/lib/200.../358/3.jpg.jpg 5V - 0.72A 12V - 0.52A I don't know what all 20 of your drives will be, but "most" drives have the current on the labels, though you may note the 12V is lower than 2 or 3A, it's not the surge but steady-state rating. Ultimately any drives you wonder about should first have their labels checked- it's not unheard of for a drive model to remain somewhat similar but the drive itself changes somehow, and I do think Seagate has done this with some version of 7200.9 or 7200.10, but I don't think that would result in 2.8A @ 12V and 0A @ 5V. I am quite sure none of their 7200.10 drives use 2.8A of 12V current in "amps typ operating" as was suggested in that link you gave- they'd have to start putting heatsinks on their drives if they generated that much heat. I know you can get a cord that connects to the MB connector on your secondary power supply and will turn on your second power supply when your main one turns on. I thought of getting this but i was a little worried if it took into acount the sensing and min loads that the toughpower PSU may have. (Read somewhere that atx 2.2 compliant PSU should have sensing but that could be wrong) "Sensing" is not a new feature nor unique to ATX 2.2 PSU. You could buy a dongle-adapter-something-or-other that does as you described, plugs into both PSU and turns this one on. You'd achieve the same thing by soldering a wire between both PSU's PS-On wire, though it might be good to make sure they have a common ground too, so two wires (though presumably the data cable(s) to get to these drives will be that common ground, there is not enough current for this to be a problem). The real question is whether you're willing to cut up/off wires or another permanent modification to the supply (which voids it's warranty). If not, then any way you look at it you'll have to source a mating motherboard-style connector to interface to the PSU's plug to turn it on, whether that connector is bought from some electronics supply house like http://www.digikey.com (I'm not certain they have one but expect they do- just a matter of wading through a gazillion parts to find it), or whether the plug comes on a ready-made dongle meant for the purpose, or whether you cannibalize an old motherboard to get the connector. The easiest way to get it off an old motherboard is as follows: - Plug an old worthless PSU plug into the motherboard socket - Make sure it's plugged in all the way, locking tab locked. - Take board outside and flip it over. - Take smallest pencil or blowtorch avail. (or hot air gun) and hold far enough away (if a torch) to not ignite the board. Move it back and forth while gently pulling straight at 90' angle on the PSU leads and once solder is melted, whole plug pulls out at once. Plugging the old PSU in helps, because a tool might deform the connector plastic as it softens (but it shouldn't melt), and helps to keep the pins straight during cooling. Just be sure not to overheat it, plugging lightly should make it easy to tell when hot enough. If you overheat the board it will stink badly and need be left outside- this is destructive cannibalization, before throwing the board away. I still don't know if you're adept at soldering though, and that is one of the most reliable ways to get a load resistor(s) connected. Some of the PSU "testers" you'll see on the web do have minimal load resistors which would be better than nothing but aren't meant to keep the rails even while you have ~ 20 drives spinning up, that will require more current than those cheap little testers can handle continuously. |
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