A computer components & hardware forum. HardwareBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » HardwareBanter forum » Motherboards » Asus Motherboards
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old June 5th 08, 07:00 PM posted to alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus
Kyle
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 86
Default Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.

"Xam" wrote in message ...

| lol.
| Thanks everyone for all the tips.
| I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC
| boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one
| though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I
usually
| end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has the
problem
| that it tends to blow it all over everything else.
|
| I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that
is
| the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to buy
| some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look.
|
| The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will look
for
| some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of though.
The
| caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be less than that. 6
or
| 8 mm perhaps.
|
| Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know.
| Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best.
|


Even with an available solder sucker to use, the holes are so tight on
the cap leads sometimes that getting all the solder out is a pain if
not impossible, so I find the easiest, fastest and most reliable
method (for me) to get the caps out of a mobo is to touch a hot iron
to one leg of the cap while placing a small bit of prying force on the
cap on the component side of the board (I reach under the board
knowing where the cap is and get it in my fingers before putting the
iron to a cap lead), the cap will move or tilt just a bit with one
lead having solder reflowed and a gentle force applied. Now heat the
other leg, pry the cap the opposite direction gently. Go back and
forth on the legs with the soldering iron and a bit of prying force
til you "wiggle" the cap out. Then it is really handy to have a
solder sucker to clear the hole, but sometimes good solder wick will
work if you have some.

I have also used this "wiggle" approach to insert a new 2 legged
component when I had no solder sucker available, heat the solder in
one hole while inserting the leg into the molten solder, then heat and
reflow the solder in the other hole and insert the other leg into the
2nd hole. Again, patience is a virtue, you will move the component
legs down into the board just a little bit with each alternating
application of heat to the leads. Once the component is properly
situated in place flush with the board, applying a bit of new solder
is recommended before trimming the leads.

Solder wick can be a bit dangerous with surface mount devices nearby
so be careful if you use such. I've never "ruined" a board using this
"wiggle" technique, just be patient and realize you will only move the
cap lead upward about 1-2 mm with each "heat and wiggle" step. Also,
do NOT use a 1000w iron for this task, too much heat can be dangerous
and harmful to the board. A 100w or less iron is appropriate, imho,
and do not apply the hot iron to a leg too long (no more than 2
seconds or so). If the solder is not heating up and reflowing in the
hole, you can actually apply a bit more solder to the leg (on the
solder side of the board) before applying the hot iron to make heat
transfer to the solder down in the hole and component lead more
effective.
--
Best regards,
Kyle

  #12  
Old June 5th 08, 07:56 PM posted to alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus
John Lewis
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 392
Default Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.

On Mon, 2 Jun 2008 16:44:24 +0100, "Rob"
wrote:


"Xam" wrote in message ...
Hi Gang.

Not the worst news but I have two leaky capacitors on my old faithful Asus
A7N266-VM. The caps are situated right next to the CPU socket on the PCI
slot side. The system still runs well, but they only just started leaking
yesterday, AFAIK.

If you look at the graphic on the link page below, youcan see them quite
clearly. There is two copper coils next to them on their right, with the
CPU socket on the left.

http://www.techtree.com/India/Review...48937-636.html

It may just be a coincidence but, I was testing a 64DDR Radeon 7000 PCI
card yesterday for a friend. The card worked fine in my system. It was
after the test (I let it run for a few hours) that I noticed one tiny
piece of smeg on the top of one cap. Now today there is a whole lot more
on the other, as well as about the same on the top of the first.

Can anyone tell me what they are for, what may have caused this, and can I
just replace them? Also, is there anything else I should know, before
proceeding?


They look to be part of the CPU power regulation circuitry.
Apparently, there were millions of them made which weren't up to
spec and found their way into many motherboards (and other
electronics.)
Whenever I replace leaky electrolytics, I try and get replacements
which are rated at 150C (or higher, if you can get them) rather
than standard ones which are often only rated to 100 Centigrade.
The theory is they will last longer on devices which run hot.

HTH,
--
Rob




Er, high-temp, high-rel capacitors commercial-grade capacitors are
rated at 105degrees C. Clearly marked on the case. The normal
garden-variety cheapos are rated at 85degrees C.

Exactly where do you get the 150degree caps? A military supplier? URL
please.

John Lewis

  #13  
Old June 6th 08, 02:37 AM posted to alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus
Xam
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 22
Default Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.

Rob wrote:
"Xam" wrote in message ...
William wrote:
"~misfit~" wrote in message
...
Somewhere on teh intarweb "William" typed:
"Xam" wrote in message ...
Hi Gang.

Not the worst news but I have two leaky capacitors on my old
faithful Asus A7N266-VM. The caps are situated right next to the
CPU socket on the PCI slot side. The system still runs well, but
they only just started leaking yesterday, AFAIK.

If you look at the graphic on the link page below, youcan see them
quite clearly. There is two copper coils next to them on their
right, with the CPU socket on the left.

http://www.techtree.com/India/Review...48937-636.html

It may just be a coincidence but, I was testing a 64DDR Radeon 7000
PCI card yesterday for a friend. The card worked fine in my system.
It was after the test (I let it run for a few hours) that I noticed
one tiny piece of smeg on the top of one cap. Now today there is a
whole lot more on the other, as well as about the same on the top of
the first. Can anyone tell me what they are for, what may have caused
this, and
can I just replace them? Also, is there anything else I should
know, before proceeding?

Thanks for your time and consideration of my problem.

-Adrian

Other hardwa
AMD Athlon 2000+ CPU.
1 gig of ram. (1 x 512 PC400 + 1 x 512 PC333)
2 x 40 gig HDD
1 x CD RW
1 x DVD RW
550 watt PSU



--
I'm not afraid to die.
I just don't want to be there when it happens.
--
NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey
A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition.
http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases
Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client.
All in one internet application suite.
Xam:

Do you have any experience working on pc boards that use surface mount
devices? Working with capacitors mounted on such pc boards that use
through-the-hole plating for signal/power path distribution requires
a high level of skill to work with to prevent damage to the board.

If you have experience, then you know this. If this is something new
to you, you should get your hands on an old discarded pc board and do
some practice and develop a technique for yourself. It will be
necessary to learn how to use a proper soldering gun/stick to melt
the solder around the leads of the capacitor without harming the pc
board.
Usually a solder sucker of some type is used to remove the molten
solder from the holes in use by the capacitors. A pair of pliers is
then used to move the capacitor leads around in the hole to confirm
the free movement of the leads before removal of the capacitor. It
is extremely important that you do not put any stress on the plating
used to coat the internal area of the hole in the pc board.

Repairing components on state-of-the-art pc boards has become such an
advanced skill that few technicians outside of large factory settings
have the equipment or skills to do such work for what a consumer
would be willing to pay for.

Be careful, practice, or you will render the pc board worthless.

William

It's always good to have a friend who does this kind of stuff and
purchase a good bottle of Whiskey for them to do the job for you.
(It's amazing what a good bottle of Whiskey will get done for you.)
Or you could get your husband to do it for you. ;-)
--
He will get his butane burner out and use it. It worked OK on his truck
last time. Or maybe he will get that old wood burner out that he has
laying in his drawer left over from his Boy Scouts days doing Indian
motif projects for his badge. He'll have to knock off the sawdust of
course. That led acid solder should do the job left over from the pipe
work done last year on the sink.

William






lol.
Thanks everyone for all the tips.
I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC
boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one
though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I usually
end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has the problem
that it tends to blow it all over everything else.

I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that is
the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to buy
some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look.

The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will look for
some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of though. The
caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be less than that. 6 or 8
mm perhaps.

Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know.
Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best.


I've heard of some that physically pull the cans off of the caps, leaving
the leads still connected to the mobo (obviously the internals of the cap
need cutting off, if they remain attached) and then have soldered the new
caps to these lead stubs.
I wouldn't recommend that method, but it's a possibility if you can't get
the old leads out.

HTH (and good luck!),



Sounds like a viable solution, if a little rough and ready! (-:

I didn't have much luck in town yesterday, but I still have a couple of
irons in the fire, if you'll excuse the pun.

I have found an on-line Aussie source for Rubycon capacitors.
http://stores.ebay.com.au/UnicareAU

They want AU$2.80 (AU$1.00 = US$0.95) a piece for them though, but they
are 50v. Is that much difference in voltage rating acceptable? The heat
range isn't mentioned, but from what I've read on badcaps.net, Rubycon
are the best you can get.

Unfortunately, I haven't yet found an Aussie site anything like badcaps.net.

There are ten of the 6.3v 3300uf caps on the board. I've found four
leaky ones all told, so far. But a few of the others show slight signs
of bulging. So if I go to the trouble of replacing any of the 3300uf
caps, I guess it may as well be all of them. But that would cost about
half the price of a new motherboard, and if I replaced all of the other
dozen or so 1000uf caps on the board, well, you can see where I'm going
with this can't you. (-:

So I've reached a bit of an impasse. Taking into consideration that
they didn't start leaking (and have now stopped) till I tested that PCI
VGA card, which is no longer in the system. Should I just replace the
obviously bad caps or...., what?

Cheers m8.

-Adrian



--
I checked into a hotel on a business trip and was a bit lonely so I
thought I'd get me one of those girls you see advertised in phone booths
when your calling for a cab. I grabbed a card on my way in. It was an ad
for a girl calling herself Erogonique, a lovely girl, bending over in
the photo. She had all the right curves in all the right places,
beautiful long wavy hair, long graceful legs all the way up to her ass.
You know the kind. So I'm in my room and figure, what the hell, I'll
give her a call. "Hello?" the woman says. God, she sounded sexy. "Hi, I
hear you give a great massage and I'd like you to come to my room and
give me one. No, wait, I should be straight with you. I'm in town all
alone and what I really want is sex. I want it hard, I want it hot, and
I want it now. I'm talking kinky the whole night long. You name it,
we'll do it. Bring implements, toys, everything you've got in your bag
of tricks. We'll go hot and heavy all night. Tie me up, wear a strap on,
cover me in chocolate syrup and whip cream, anything you want baby. Now,
how does that sound?" She says, "That sounds fantastic, but for an
outside line you need to press 9."

--
NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey
A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition.
http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases
Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client.
All in one internet application suite.
  #14  
Old June 6th 08, 02:45 AM posted to alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus
Xam
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 22
Default Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.

Kyle wrote:
"Xam" wrote in message ...

| lol.
| Thanks everyone for all the tips.
| I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC
| boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one
| though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I
usually
| end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has the
problem
| that it tends to blow it all over everything else.
|
| I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that
is
| the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to buy
| some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look.
|
| The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will look
for
| some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of though.
The
| caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be less than that. 6
or
| 8 mm perhaps.
|
| Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know.
| Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best.
|


Even with an available solder sucker to use, the holes are so tight on
the cap leads sometimes that getting all the solder out is a pain if
not impossible, so I find the easiest, fastest and most reliable
method (for me) to get the caps out of a mobo is to touch a hot iron
to one leg of the cap while placing a small bit of prying force on the
cap on the component side of the board (I reach under the board
knowing where the cap is and get it in my fingers before putting the
iron to a cap lead), the cap will move or tilt just a bit with one
lead having solder reflowed and a gentle force applied. Now heat the
other leg, pry the cap the opposite direction gently. Go back and
forth on the legs with the soldering iron and a bit of prying force
til you "wiggle" the cap out. Then it is really handy to have a
solder sucker to clear the hole, but sometimes good solder wick will
work if you have some.

I have also used this "wiggle" approach to insert a new 2 legged
component when I had no solder sucker available, heat the solder in
one hole while inserting the leg into the molten solder, then heat and
reflow the solder in the other hole and insert the other leg into the
2nd hole. Again, patience is a virtue, you will move the component
legs down into the board just a little bit with each alternating
application of heat to the leads. Once the component is properly
situated in place flush with the board, applying a bit of new solder
is recommended before trimming the leads.

Solder wick can be a bit dangerous with surface mount devices nearby
so be careful if you use such. I've never "ruined" a board using this
"wiggle" technique, just be patient and realize you will only move the
cap lead upward about 1-2 mm with each "heat and wiggle" step. Also,
do NOT use a 1000w iron for this task, too much heat can be dangerous
and harmful to the board. A 100w or less iron is appropriate, imho,
and do not apply the hot iron to a leg too long (no more than 2
seconds or so). If the solder is not heating up and reflowing in the
hole, you can actually apply a bit more solder to the leg (on the
solder side of the board) before applying the hot iron to make heat
transfer to the solder down in the hole and component lead more
effective.



Thanks so much for all the really useful info Kyle.
Much appreciated m8.
Your a credit to the newsgroup.

-Adrian
--
This makes sense to me!
Indian Chief, 'Two Eagles,' was asked by a white government official,
'You have observed the white man for 90 years.
You've seen his wars and his technological advances.
You've seen his progress, and the damage he's done.'
The Chief nodded in agreement.
The official continued, 'Considering all these events, in your opinion,
where did the white man go wrong?'
The Chief stared at the government official for over a minute and then
calmly replied.
'When white man find land, Indians running it. No taxes, No debt, Plenty
buffalo,
Plenty beaver, Clean Water; Women did all the work, Medicine man free.
Indian man spend all day hunting and fishing; All night having sex.'
Then the chief leaned back and smiled.
'Only white man dumb enough to think he can improve system like that.'


--
NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey
A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition.
http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases
Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client.
All in one internet application suite.
  #15  
Old June 6th 08, 03:13 AM posted to alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus
~misfit~[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 330
Default Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.

Somewhere on teh intarweb "Kyle" typed:
"Xam" wrote in message ...

lol.
Thanks everyone for all the tips.
I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC
boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one
though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I
usually end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has
the problem that it tends to blow it all over everything else.

I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that
is the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to
buy some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look.

The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will look
for some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of
though. The caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be less
than that. 6 or 8 mm perhaps.

Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know.
Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best.



Even with an available solder sucker to use, the holes are so tight on
the cap leads sometimes that getting all the solder out is a pain if
not impossible, so I find the easiest, fastest and most reliable
method (for me) to get the caps out of a mobo is to touch a hot iron
to one leg of the cap while placing a small bit of prying force on the
cap on the component side of the board (I reach under the board
knowing where the cap is and get it in my fingers before putting the
iron to a cap lead), the cap will move or tilt just a bit with one
lead having solder reflowed and a gentle force applied. Now heat the
other leg, pry the cap the opposite direction gently. Go back and
forth on the legs with the soldering iron and a bit of prying force
til you "wiggle" the cap out. Then it is really handy to have a
solder sucker to clear the hole, but sometimes good solder wick will
work if you have some.

I have also used this "wiggle" approach to insert a new 2 legged
component when I had no solder sucker available, heat the solder in
one hole while inserting the leg into the molten solder, then heat and
reflow the solder in the other hole and insert the other leg into the
2nd hole. Again, patience is a virtue, you will move the component
legs down into the board just a little bit with each alternating
application of heat to the leads. Once the component is properly
situated in place flush with the board, applying a bit of new solder
is recommended before trimming the leads.

Solder wick can be a bit dangerous with surface mount devices nearby
so be careful if you use such. I've never "ruined" a board using this
"wiggle" technique, just be patient and realize you will only move the
cap lead upward about 1-2 mm with each "heat and wiggle" step. Also,
do NOT use a 1000w iron for this task, too much heat can be dangerous
and harmful to the board. A 100w or less iron is appropriate, imho,
and do not apply the hot iron to a leg too long (no more than 2
seconds or so). If the solder is not heating up and reflowing in the
hole, you can actually apply a bit more solder to the leg (on the
solder side of the board) before applying the hot iron to make heat
transfer to the solder down in the hole and component lead more
effective.


That is almost exactly the method I use to replace capacitors and I haven't
had a problem yet, having done several boards. (I don't own a solder
sucker.)

Cheers,
--
Shaun.

DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)


  #16  
Old June 6th 08, 03:26 AM posted to alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus
~misfit~[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 330
Default Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.

Somewhere on teh intarweb "Xam" typed:
Rob wrote:
"Xam" wrote in message ...
William wrote:
"~misfit~" wrote in message
...
Somewhere on teh intarweb "William" typed:
"Xam" wrote in message
...
Hi Gang.

Not the worst news but I have two leaky capacitors on my old
faithful Asus A7N266-VM. The caps are situated right next to
the CPU socket on the PCI slot side. The system still runs
well, but they only just started leaking yesterday, AFAIK.

If you look at the graphic on the link page below, youcan see
them quite clearly. There is two copper coils next to them on
their right, with the CPU socket on the left.

http://www.techtree.com/India/Review...48937-636.html

It may just be a coincidence but, I was testing a 64DDR Radeon
7000 PCI card yesterday for a friend. The card worked fine in
my system. It was after the test (I let it run for a few hours)
that I noticed one tiny piece of smeg on the top of one cap. Now
today there is a whole lot more on the other, as well as
about the same on the top of the first. Can anyone tell me what
they are for, what may have caused this, and
can I just replace them? Also, is there anything else I should
know, before proceeding?

Thanks for your time and consideration of my problem.

-Adrian

Other hardwa
AMD Athlon 2000+ CPU.
1 gig of ram. (1 x 512 PC400 + 1 x 512 PC333)
2 x 40 gig HDD
1 x CD RW
1 x DVD RW
550 watt PSU



--
I'm not afraid to die.
I just don't want to be there when it happens.
--
NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey
A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition.
http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases
Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client.
All in one internet application suite.
Xam:

Do you have any experience working on pc boards that use surface
mount devices? Working with capacitors mounted on such pc
boards that use through-the-hole plating for signal/power path
distribution requires a high level of skill to work with to
prevent damage to the board. If you have experience, then you know
this. If this is
something new to you, you should get your hands on an old
discarded pc board and do some practice and develop a technique
for yourself. It will be necessary to learn how to use a proper
soldering gun/stick to melt the solder around the leads of the
capacitor without harming the pc board.
Usually a solder sucker of some type is used to remove the molten
solder from the holes in use by the capacitors. A pair of
pliers is then used to move the capacitor leads around in the
hole to confirm the free movement of the leads before removal of
the capacitor. It is extremely important that you do not put
any stress on the plating used to coat the internal area of the
hole in the pc board. Repairing components on state-of-the-art pc
boards has become
such an advanced skill that few technicians outside of large
factory settings have the equipment or skills to do such work
for what a consumer would be willing to pay for.

Be careful, practice, or you will render the pc board worthless.

William

It's always good to have a friend who does this kind of stuff and
purchase a good bottle of Whiskey for them to do the job for you.
(It's amazing what a good bottle of Whiskey will get done for
you.)
Or you could get your husband to do it for you. ;-)
--
He will get his butane burner out and use it. It worked OK on his
truck last time. Or maybe he will get that old wood burner out
that he has laying in his drawer left over from his Boy Scouts
days doing Indian motif projects for his badge. He'll have to
knock off the sawdust of course. That led acid solder should do
the job left over from the pipe work done last year on the sink.

William






lol.
Thanks everyone for all the tips.
I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC
boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one
though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I
usually end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has
the problem that it tends to blow it all over everything else.

I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that
is the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to
buy some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look.

The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will
look for some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of
though. The caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be
less than that. 6 or 8 mm perhaps.

Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know.
Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best.


I've heard of some that physically pull the cans off of the caps,
leaving the leads still connected to the mobo (obviously the
internals of the cap need cutting off, if they remain attached) and
then have soldered the new caps to these lead stubs.
I wouldn't recommend that method, but it's a possibility if you
can't get the old leads out.

HTH (and good luck!),



Sounds like a viable solution, if a little rough and ready! (-:

I didn't have much luck in town yesterday, but I still have a couple
of irons in the fire, if you'll excuse the pun.

I have found an on-line Aussie source for Rubycon capacitors.
http://stores.ebay.com.au/UnicareAU

They want AU$2.80 (AU$1.00 = US$0.95) a piece for them though, but
they are 50v. Is that much difference in voltage rating acceptable? The
heat range isn't mentioned, but from what I've read on badcaps.net,
Rubycon are the best you can get.

Unfortunately, I haven't yet found an Aussie site anything like
badcaps.net.
There are ten of the 6.3v 3300uf caps on the board. I've found four
leaky ones all told, so far. But a few of the others show slight
signs of bulging. So if I go to the trouble of replacing any of the
3300uf
caps, I guess it may as well be all of them. But that would cost
about half the price of a new motherboard, and if I replaced all of
the other dozen or so 1000uf caps on the board, well, you can see
where I'm going with this can't you. (-:

So I've reached a bit of an impasse. Taking into consideration that
they didn't start leaking (and have now stopped) till I tested that
PCI VGA card, which is no longer in the system. Should I just replace the
obviously bad caps or...., what?

Cheers m8.


LOL, for some reason you don't seem to be replying to my posts directly. Is
it because I'm a New Zealander? g

IMO the fitting of the graphics card and the caps problem are coincidental.
It's probably just that you were looking at the mobo.

If I were you I'd replace all the caps that are visibly showing signs of
internal pressure, be it leaking or bulging, then have a few spares on hand.

When you're buying less than lots of 1,000, caps do seem to be fairly
expensive. I buy mine from these guys:

http://www.sicom.co.nz/


C6.3R3300HX

On this page page:


http://www.sicom.co.nz/xurl/function...3/content.html

I don't know if they ship to Aussie though. Your best bet is probably to
find an Aussie electronics newsgroup and ask there for a supplier.

Cheers,
--
Shaun.

DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me
offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it.
If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to
me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)


  #17  
Old June 6th 08, 03:43 AM posted to alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus
Xam
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 22
Default Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.

~misfit~ wrote:
Somewhere on teh intarweb "Xam" typed:
Rob wrote:
"Xam" wrote in message ...
William wrote:
"~misfit~" wrote in message
...
Somewhere on teh intarweb "William" typed:
"Xam" wrote in message
...
Hi Gang.

Not the worst news but I have two leaky capacitors on my old
faithful Asus A7N266-VM. The caps are situated right next to
the CPU socket on the PCI slot side. The system still runs
well, but they only just started leaking yesterday, AFAIK.

If you look at the graphic on the link page below, youcan see
them quite clearly. There is two copper coils next to them on
their right, with the CPU socket on the left.

http://www.techtree.com/India/Review...48937-636.html

It may just be a coincidence but, I was testing a 64DDR Radeon
7000 PCI card yesterday for a friend. The card worked fine in
my system. It was after the test (I let it run for a few hours)
that I noticed one tiny piece of smeg on the top of one cap. Now
today there is a whole lot more on the other, as well as
about the same on the top of the first. Can anyone tell me what
they are for, what may have caused this, and
can I just replace them? Also, is there anything else I should
know, before proceeding?

Thanks for your time and consideration of my problem.

-Adrian

Other hardwa
AMD Athlon 2000+ CPU.
1 gig of ram. (1 x 512 PC400 + 1 x 512 PC333)
2 x 40 gig HDD
1 x CD RW
1 x DVD RW
550 watt PSU



--
I'm not afraid to die.
I just don't want to be there when it happens.
--
NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey
A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition.
http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases
Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client.
All in one internet application suite.
Xam:

Do you have any experience working on pc boards that use surface
mount devices? Working with capacitors mounted on such pc
boards that use through-the-hole plating for signal/power path
distribution requires a high level of skill to work with to
prevent damage to the board. If you have experience, then you know
this. If this is
something new to you, you should get your hands on an old
discarded pc board and do some practice and develop a technique
for yourself. It will be necessary to learn how to use a proper
soldering gun/stick to melt the solder around the leads of the
capacitor without harming the pc board.
Usually a solder sucker of some type is used to remove the molten
solder from the holes in use by the capacitors. A pair of
pliers is then used to move the capacitor leads around in the
hole to confirm the free movement of the leads before removal of
the capacitor. It is extremely important that you do not put
any stress on the plating used to coat the internal area of the
hole in the pc board. Repairing components on state-of-the-art pc
boards has become
such an advanced skill that few technicians outside of large
factory settings have the equipment or skills to do such work
for what a consumer would be willing to pay for.

Be careful, practice, or you will render the pc board worthless.

William

It's always good to have a friend who does this kind of stuff and
purchase a good bottle of Whiskey for them to do the job for you.
(It's amazing what a good bottle of Whiskey will get done for
you.)
Or you could get your husband to do it for you. ;-)
--
He will get his butane burner out and use it. It worked OK on his
truck last time. Or maybe he will get that old wood burner out
that he has laying in his drawer left over from his Boy Scouts
days doing Indian motif projects for his badge. He'll have to
knock off the sawdust of course. That led acid solder should do
the job left over from the pipe work done last year on the sink.

William






lol.
Thanks everyone for all the tips.
I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC
boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one
though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I
usually end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has
the problem that it tends to blow it all over everything else.

I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that
is the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to
buy some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look.

The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will
look for some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of
though. The caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be
less than that. 6 or 8 mm perhaps.

Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know.
Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best.
I've heard of some that physically pull the cans off of the caps,
leaving the leads still connected to the mobo (obviously the
internals of the cap need cutting off, if they remain attached) and
then have soldered the new caps to these lead stubs.
I wouldn't recommend that method, but it's a possibility if you
can't get the old leads out.

HTH (and good luck!),


Sounds like a viable solution, if a little rough and ready! (-:

I didn't have much luck in town yesterday, but I still have a couple
of irons in the fire, if you'll excuse the pun.

I have found an on-line Aussie source for Rubycon capacitors.
http://stores.ebay.com.au/UnicareAU

They want AU$2.80 (AU$1.00 = US$0.95) a piece for them though, but
they are 50v. Is that much difference in voltage rating acceptable? The
heat range isn't mentioned, but from what I've read on badcaps.net,
Rubycon are the best you can get.

Unfortunately, I haven't yet found an Aussie site anything like
badcaps.net.
There are ten of the 6.3v 3300uf caps on the board. I've found four
leaky ones all told, so far. But a few of the others show slight
signs of bulging. So if I go to the trouble of replacing any of the
3300uf
caps, I guess it may as well be all of them. But that would cost
about half the price of a new motherboard, and if I replaced all of
the other dozen or so 1000uf caps on the board, well, you can see
where I'm going with this can't you. (-:

So I've reached a bit of an impasse. Taking into consideration that
they didn't start leaking (and have now stopped) till I tested that
PCI VGA card, which is no longer in the system. Should I just replace the
obviously bad caps or...., what?

Cheers m8.


LOL, for some reason you don't seem to be replying to my posts directly. Is
it because I'm a New Zealander? g

IMO the fitting of the graphics card and the caps problem are coincidental.
It's probably just that you were looking at the mobo.

If I were you I'd replace all the caps that are visibly showing signs of
internal pressure, be it leaking or bulging, then have a few spares on hand.

When you're buying less than lots of 1,000, caps do seem to be fairly
expensive. I buy mine from these guys:

http://www.sicom.co.nz/


C6.3R3300HX

On this page page:


http://www.sicom.co.nz/xurl/function...3/content.html

I don't know if they ship to Aussie though. Your best bet is probably to
find an Aussie electronics newsgroup and ask there for a supplier.

Cheers,



lol, well actually unless you look at your headers directly, there is no
real way of knowing you are a Kiwi.

X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host:
202-154-150-202.ubs-dynamic.connections.net.nz

Sounds like sound advice though. I'll have to investigate those links.
But as you would know, most Kiwi and Aussie mobs trade across the
creek. We'll have to get around to widening the bridge one of these
days. Two lanes just isn't wide enough. (-;

Thanks m8.

-Adrian
--
"A good sermon should be like a woman's skirt:
short enough to arouse interest,
but long enough to cover the essentials." (-;
~Ronald Knox
--
NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey
A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition.
http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases
Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client.
All in one internet application suite.
  #18  
Old June 6th 08, 07:32 AM posted to alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus
William
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 302
Default Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.


"Xam" wrote in message ...

snip



I have found an on-line Aussie source for Rubycon capacitors.
http://stores.ebay.com.au/UnicareAU


Try: http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/digihome.html They have international sales
locations you can order from. Locations in :New Zealand; Hong Kong;
Singapore; Taiwan and many more.

Do you have Radio Shacks in your area? Also, call your local Consumer
Electronics Service Agency and find out where they get their parts from.
Every major town has a whole sale distributor in it. You could probably
even look it up in the yellow pages in your phone book.

Check out Rubycon's web site, they would probably suggest a local
distributor if you e-mailed them.

BTW - be sure that 50v version will fit in the space provided by the old
one. As the voltage rating goes up, the size goes up too, (their are
exceptions to this rule.) You could even consider putting in tantalum
capacitors in their place and get away from electrolytic capacitors all
together. Some better mobos stay away from electrolytic capacitors
completely.

All this stuff is going to cost right around the fair market value of the
used mobo.

William.




They want AU$2.80 (AU$1.00 = US$0.95) a piece for them though, but
they are 50v. Is that much difference in voltage rating acceptable? The
heat range isn't mentioned, but from what I've read on badcaps.net,
Rubycon are the best you can get.

Unfortunately, I haven't yet found an Aussie site anything like
badcaps.net.
There are ten of the 6.3v 3300uf caps on the board. I've found four
leaky ones all told, so far. But a few of the others show slight
signs of bulging. So if I go to the trouble of replacing any of the
3300uf
caps, I guess it may as well be all of them. But that would cost
about half the price of a new motherboard, and if I replaced all of
the other dozen or so 1000uf caps on the board, well, you can see
where I'm going with this can't you. (-:

So I've reached a bit of an impasse. Taking into consideration that
they didn't start leaking (and have now stopped) till I tested that
PCI VGA card, which is no longer in the system. Should I just replace
the
obviously bad caps or...., what?


snip


 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
ASUS A7N266-VM Memory Andy Nugent Asus Motherboards 1 March 31st 05 12:30 PM
Asus A7n266 Question Creative Door Asus Motherboards 6 January 31st 04 08:51 PM
Asus A7N266-VM problems Gene Puhl Asus Motherboards 2 November 8th 03 08:57 AM
Asus A7N266-VM problem, Tosca Asus Motherboards 1 November 3rd 03 01:27 PM
asus A7N266 - VM SE None Asus Motherboards 1 October 22nd 03 07:28 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 HardwareBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.