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#11
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Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.
"Xam" wrote in message ...
| lol. | Thanks everyone for all the tips. | I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC | boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one | though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I usually | end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has the problem | that it tends to blow it all over everything else. | | I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that is | the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to buy | some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look. | | The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will look for | some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of though. The | caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be less than that. 6 or | 8 mm perhaps. | | Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know. | Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best. | Even with an available solder sucker to use, the holes are so tight on the cap leads sometimes that getting all the solder out is a pain if not impossible, so I find the easiest, fastest and most reliable method (for me) to get the caps out of a mobo is to touch a hot iron to one leg of the cap while placing a small bit of prying force on the cap on the component side of the board (I reach under the board knowing where the cap is and get it in my fingers before putting the iron to a cap lead), the cap will move or tilt just a bit with one lead having solder reflowed and a gentle force applied. Now heat the other leg, pry the cap the opposite direction gently. Go back and forth on the legs with the soldering iron and a bit of prying force til you "wiggle" the cap out. Then it is really handy to have a solder sucker to clear the hole, but sometimes good solder wick will work if you have some. I have also used this "wiggle" approach to insert a new 2 legged component when I had no solder sucker available, heat the solder in one hole while inserting the leg into the molten solder, then heat and reflow the solder in the other hole and insert the other leg into the 2nd hole. Again, patience is a virtue, you will move the component legs down into the board just a little bit with each alternating application of heat to the leads. Once the component is properly situated in place flush with the board, applying a bit of new solder is recommended before trimming the leads. Solder wick can be a bit dangerous with surface mount devices nearby so be careful if you use such. I've never "ruined" a board using this "wiggle" technique, just be patient and realize you will only move the cap lead upward about 1-2 mm with each "heat and wiggle" step. Also, do NOT use a 1000w iron for this task, too much heat can be dangerous and harmful to the board. A 100w or less iron is appropriate, imho, and do not apply the hot iron to a leg too long (no more than 2 seconds or so). If the solder is not heating up and reflowing in the hole, you can actually apply a bit more solder to the leg (on the solder side of the board) before applying the hot iron to make heat transfer to the solder down in the hole and component lead more effective. -- Best regards, Kyle |
#12
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Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.
On Mon, 2 Jun 2008 16:44:24 +0100, "Rob"
wrote: "Xam" wrote in message ... Hi Gang. Not the worst news but I have two leaky capacitors on my old faithful Asus A7N266-VM. The caps are situated right next to the CPU socket on the PCI slot side. The system still runs well, but they only just started leaking yesterday, AFAIK. If you look at the graphic on the link page below, youcan see them quite clearly. There is two copper coils next to them on their right, with the CPU socket on the left. http://www.techtree.com/India/Review...48937-636.html It may just be a coincidence but, I was testing a 64DDR Radeon 7000 PCI card yesterday for a friend. The card worked fine in my system. It was after the test (I let it run for a few hours) that I noticed one tiny piece of smeg on the top of one cap. Now today there is a whole lot more on the other, as well as about the same on the top of the first. Can anyone tell me what they are for, what may have caused this, and can I just replace them? Also, is there anything else I should know, before proceeding? They look to be part of the CPU power regulation circuitry. Apparently, there were millions of them made which weren't up to spec and found their way into many motherboards (and other electronics.) Whenever I replace leaky electrolytics, I try and get replacements which are rated at 150C (or higher, if you can get them) rather than standard ones which are often only rated to 100 Centigrade. The theory is they will last longer on devices which run hot. HTH, -- Rob Er, high-temp, high-rel capacitors commercial-grade capacitors are rated at 105degrees C. Clearly marked on the case. The normal garden-variety cheapos are rated at 85degrees C. Exactly where do you get the 150degree caps? A military supplier? URL please. John Lewis |
#13
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Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.
Rob wrote:
"Xam" wrote in message ... William wrote: "~misfit~" wrote in message ... Somewhere on teh intarweb "William" typed: "Xam" wrote in message ... Hi Gang. Not the worst news but I have two leaky capacitors on my old faithful Asus A7N266-VM. The caps are situated right next to the CPU socket on the PCI slot side. The system still runs well, but they only just started leaking yesterday, AFAIK. If you look at the graphic on the link page below, youcan see them quite clearly. There is two copper coils next to them on their right, with the CPU socket on the left. http://www.techtree.com/India/Review...48937-636.html It may just be a coincidence but, I was testing a 64DDR Radeon 7000 PCI card yesterday for a friend. The card worked fine in my system. It was after the test (I let it run for a few hours) that I noticed one tiny piece of smeg on the top of one cap. Now today there is a whole lot more on the other, as well as about the same on the top of the first. Can anyone tell me what they are for, what may have caused this, and can I just replace them? Also, is there anything else I should know, before proceeding? Thanks for your time and consideration of my problem. -Adrian Other hardwa AMD Athlon 2000+ CPU. 1 gig of ram. (1 x 512 PC400 + 1 x 512 PC333) 2 x 40 gig HDD 1 x CD RW 1 x DVD RW 550 watt PSU -- I'm not afraid to die. I just don't want to be there when it happens. -- NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition. http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client. All in one internet application suite. Xam: Do you have any experience working on pc boards that use surface mount devices? Working with capacitors mounted on such pc boards that use through-the-hole plating for signal/power path distribution requires a high level of skill to work with to prevent damage to the board. If you have experience, then you know this. If this is something new to you, you should get your hands on an old discarded pc board and do some practice and develop a technique for yourself. It will be necessary to learn how to use a proper soldering gun/stick to melt the solder around the leads of the capacitor without harming the pc board. Usually a solder sucker of some type is used to remove the molten solder from the holes in use by the capacitors. A pair of pliers is then used to move the capacitor leads around in the hole to confirm the free movement of the leads before removal of the capacitor. It is extremely important that you do not put any stress on the plating used to coat the internal area of the hole in the pc board. Repairing components on state-of-the-art pc boards has become such an advanced skill that few technicians outside of large factory settings have the equipment or skills to do such work for what a consumer would be willing to pay for. Be careful, practice, or you will render the pc board worthless. William It's always good to have a friend who does this kind of stuff and purchase a good bottle of Whiskey for them to do the job for you. (It's amazing what a good bottle of Whiskey will get done for you.) Or you could get your husband to do it for you. ;-) -- He will get his butane burner out and use it. It worked OK on his truck last time. Or maybe he will get that old wood burner out that he has laying in his drawer left over from his Boy Scouts days doing Indian motif projects for his badge. He'll have to knock off the sawdust of course. That led acid solder should do the job left over from the pipe work done last year on the sink. William lol. Thanks everyone for all the tips. I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I usually end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has the problem that it tends to blow it all over everything else. I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that is the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to buy some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look. The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will look for some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of though. The caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be less than that. 6 or 8 mm perhaps. Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know. Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best. I've heard of some that physically pull the cans off of the caps, leaving the leads still connected to the mobo (obviously the internals of the cap need cutting off, if they remain attached) and then have soldered the new caps to these lead stubs. I wouldn't recommend that method, but it's a possibility if you can't get the old leads out. HTH (and good luck!), Sounds like a viable solution, if a little rough and ready! (-: I didn't have much luck in town yesterday, but I still have a couple of irons in the fire, if you'll excuse the pun. I have found an on-line Aussie source for Rubycon capacitors. http://stores.ebay.com.au/UnicareAU They want AU$2.80 (AU$1.00 = US$0.95) a piece for them though, but they are 50v. Is that much difference in voltage rating acceptable? The heat range isn't mentioned, but from what I've read on badcaps.net, Rubycon are the best you can get. Unfortunately, I haven't yet found an Aussie site anything like badcaps.net. There are ten of the 6.3v 3300uf caps on the board. I've found four leaky ones all told, so far. But a few of the others show slight signs of bulging. So if I go to the trouble of replacing any of the 3300uf caps, I guess it may as well be all of them. But that would cost about half the price of a new motherboard, and if I replaced all of the other dozen or so 1000uf caps on the board, well, you can see where I'm going with this can't you. (-: So I've reached a bit of an impasse. Taking into consideration that they didn't start leaking (and have now stopped) till I tested that PCI VGA card, which is no longer in the system. Should I just replace the obviously bad caps or...., what? Cheers m8. -Adrian -- I checked into a hotel on a business trip and was a bit lonely so I thought I'd get me one of those girls you see advertised in phone booths when your calling for a cab. I grabbed a card on my way in. It was an ad for a girl calling herself Erogonique, a lovely girl, bending over in the photo. She had all the right curves in all the right places, beautiful long wavy hair, long graceful legs all the way up to her ass. You know the kind. So I'm in my room and figure, what the hell, I'll give her a call. "Hello?" the woman says. God, she sounded sexy. "Hi, I hear you give a great massage and I'd like you to come to my room and give me one. No, wait, I should be straight with you. I'm in town all alone and what I really want is sex. I want it hard, I want it hot, and I want it now. I'm talking kinky the whole night long. You name it, we'll do it. Bring implements, toys, everything you've got in your bag of tricks. We'll go hot and heavy all night. Tie me up, wear a strap on, cover me in chocolate syrup and whip cream, anything you want baby. Now, how does that sound?" She says, "That sounds fantastic, but for an outside line you need to press 9." -- NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition. http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client. All in one internet application suite. |
#14
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Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.
Kyle wrote:
"Xam" wrote in message ... | lol. | Thanks everyone for all the tips. | I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC | boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one | though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I usually | end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has the problem | that it tends to blow it all over everything else. | | I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that is | the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to buy | some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look. | | The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will look for | some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of though. The | caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be less than that. 6 or | 8 mm perhaps. | | Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know. | Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best. | Even with an available solder sucker to use, the holes are so tight on the cap leads sometimes that getting all the solder out is a pain if not impossible, so I find the easiest, fastest and most reliable method (for me) to get the caps out of a mobo is to touch a hot iron to one leg of the cap while placing a small bit of prying force on the cap on the component side of the board (I reach under the board knowing where the cap is and get it in my fingers before putting the iron to a cap lead), the cap will move or tilt just a bit with one lead having solder reflowed and a gentle force applied. Now heat the other leg, pry the cap the opposite direction gently. Go back and forth on the legs with the soldering iron and a bit of prying force til you "wiggle" the cap out. Then it is really handy to have a solder sucker to clear the hole, but sometimes good solder wick will work if you have some. I have also used this "wiggle" approach to insert a new 2 legged component when I had no solder sucker available, heat the solder in one hole while inserting the leg into the molten solder, then heat and reflow the solder in the other hole and insert the other leg into the 2nd hole. Again, patience is a virtue, you will move the component legs down into the board just a little bit with each alternating application of heat to the leads. Once the component is properly situated in place flush with the board, applying a bit of new solder is recommended before trimming the leads. Solder wick can be a bit dangerous with surface mount devices nearby so be careful if you use such. I've never "ruined" a board using this "wiggle" technique, just be patient and realize you will only move the cap lead upward about 1-2 mm with each "heat and wiggle" step. Also, do NOT use a 1000w iron for this task, too much heat can be dangerous and harmful to the board. A 100w or less iron is appropriate, imho, and do not apply the hot iron to a leg too long (no more than 2 seconds or so). If the solder is not heating up and reflowing in the hole, you can actually apply a bit more solder to the leg (on the solder side of the board) before applying the hot iron to make heat transfer to the solder down in the hole and component lead more effective. Thanks so much for all the really useful info Kyle. Much appreciated m8. Your a credit to the newsgroup. -Adrian -- This makes sense to me! Indian Chief, 'Two Eagles,' was asked by a white government official, 'You have observed the white man for 90 years. You've seen his wars and his technological advances. You've seen his progress, and the damage he's done.' The Chief nodded in agreement. The official continued, 'Considering all these events, in your opinion, where did the white man go wrong?' The Chief stared at the government official for over a minute and then calmly replied. 'When white man find land, Indians running it. No taxes, No debt, Plenty buffalo, Plenty beaver, Clean Water; Women did all the work, Medicine man free. Indian man spend all day hunting and fishing; All night having sex.' Then the chief leaned back and smiled. 'Only white man dumb enough to think he can improve system like that.' -- NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition. http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client. All in one internet application suite. |
#15
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Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.
Somewhere on teh intarweb "Kyle" typed:
"Xam" wrote in message ... lol. Thanks everyone for all the tips. I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I usually end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has the problem that it tends to blow it all over everything else. I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that is the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to buy some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look. The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will look for some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of though. The caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be less than that. 6 or 8 mm perhaps. Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know. Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best. Even with an available solder sucker to use, the holes are so tight on the cap leads sometimes that getting all the solder out is a pain if not impossible, so I find the easiest, fastest and most reliable method (for me) to get the caps out of a mobo is to touch a hot iron to one leg of the cap while placing a small bit of prying force on the cap on the component side of the board (I reach under the board knowing where the cap is and get it in my fingers before putting the iron to a cap lead), the cap will move or tilt just a bit with one lead having solder reflowed and a gentle force applied. Now heat the other leg, pry the cap the opposite direction gently. Go back and forth on the legs with the soldering iron and a bit of prying force til you "wiggle" the cap out. Then it is really handy to have a solder sucker to clear the hole, but sometimes good solder wick will work if you have some. I have also used this "wiggle" approach to insert a new 2 legged component when I had no solder sucker available, heat the solder in one hole while inserting the leg into the molten solder, then heat and reflow the solder in the other hole and insert the other leg into the 2nd hole. Again, patience is a virtue, you will move the component legs down into the board just a little bit with each alternating application of heat to the leads. Once the component is properly situated in place flush with the board, applying a bit of new solder is recommended before trimming the leads. Solder wick can be a bit dangerous with surface mount devices nearby so be careful if you use such. I've never "ruined" a board using this "wiggle" technique, just be patient and realize you will only move the cap lead upward about 1-2 mm with each "heat and wiggle" step. Also, do NOT use a 1000w iron for this task, too much heat can be dangerous and harmful to the board. A 100w or less iron is appropriate, imho, and do not apply the hot iron to a leg too long (no more than 2 seconds or so). If the solder is not heating up and reflowing in the hole, you can actually apply a bit more solder to the leg (on the solder side of the board) before applying the hot iron to make heat transfer to the solder down in the hole and component lead more effective. That is almost exactly the method I use to replace capacitors and I haven't had a problem yet, having done several boards. (I don't own a solder sucker.) Cheers, -- Shaun. DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it. If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-) |
#16
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Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.
Somewhere on teh intarweb "Xam" typed:
Rob wrote: "Xam" wrote in message ... William wrote: "~misfit~" wrote in message ... Somewhere on teh intarweb "William" typed: "Xam" wrote in message ... Hi Gang. Not the worst news but I have two leaky capacitors on my old faithful Asus A7N266-VM. The caps are situated right next to the CPU socket on the PCI slot side. The system still runs well, but they only just started leaking yesterday, AFAIK. If you look at the graphic on the link page below, youcan see them quite clearly. There is two copper coils next to them on their right, with the CPU socket on the left. http://www.techtree.com/India/Review...48937-636.html It may just be a coincidence but, I was testing a 64DDR Radeon 7000 PCI card yesterday for a friend. The card worked fine in my system. It was after the test (I let it run for a few hours) that I noticed one tiny piece of smeg on the top of one cap. Now today there is a whole lot more on the other, as well as about the same on the top of the first. Can anyone tell me what they are for, what may have caused this, and can I just replace them? Also, is there anything else I should know, before proceeding? Thanks for your time and consideration of my problem. -Adrian Other hardwa AMD Athlon 2000+ CPU. 1 gig of ram. (1 x 512 PC400 + 1 x 512 PC333) 2 x 40 gig HDD 1 x CD RW 1 x DVD RW 550 watt PSU -- I'm not afraid to die. I just don't want to be there when it happens. -- NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition. http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client. All in one internet application suite. Xam: Do you have any experience working on pc boards that use surface mount devices? Working with capacitors mounted on such pc boards that use through-the-hole plating for signal/power path distribution requires a high level of skill to work with to prevent damage to the board. If you have experience, then you know this. If this is something new to you, you should get your hands on an old discarded pc board and do some practice and develop a technique for yourself. It will be necessary to learn how to use a proper soldering gun/stick to melt the solder around the leads of the capacitor without harming the pc board. Usually a solder sucker of some type is used to remove the molten solder from the holes in use by the capacitors. A pair of pliers is then used to move the capacitor leads around in the hole to confirm the free movement of the leads before removal of the capacitor. It is extremely important that you do not put any stress on the plating used to coat the internal area of the hole in the pc board. Repairing components on state-of-the-art pc boards has become such an advanced skill that few technicians outside of large factory settings have the equipment or skills to do such work for what a consumer would be willing to pay for. Be careful, practice, or you will render the pc board worthless. William It's always good to have a friend who does this kind of stuff and purchase a good bottle of Whiskey for them to do the job for you. (It's amazing what a good bottle of Whiskey will get done for you.) Or you could get your husband to do it for you. ;-) -- He will get his butane burner out and use it. It worked OK on his truck last time. Or maybe he will get that old wood burner out that he has laying in his drawer left over from his Boy Scouts days doing Indian motif projects for his badge. He'll have to knock off the sawdust of course. That led acid solder should do the job left over from the pipe work done last year on the sink. William lol. Thanks everyone for all the tips. I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I usually end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has the problem that it tends to blow it all over everything else. I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that is the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to buy some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look. The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will look for some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of though. The caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be less than that. 6 or 8 mm perhaps. Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know. Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best. I've heard of some that physically pull the cans off of the caps, leaving the leads still connected to the mobo (obviously the internals of the cap need cutting off, if they remain attached) and then have soldered the new caps to these lead stubs. I wouldn't recommend that method, but it's a possibility if you can't get the old leads out. HTH (and good luck!), Sounds like a viable solution, if a little rough and ready! (-: I didn't have much luck in town yesterday, but I still have a couple of irons in the fire, if you'll excuse the pun. I have found an on-line Aussie source for Rubycon capacitors. http://stores.ebay.com.au/UnicareAU They want AU$2.80 (AU$1.00 = US$0.95) a piece for them though, but they are 50v. Is that much difference in voltage rating acceptable? The heat range isn't mentioned, but from what I've read on badcaps.net, Rubycon are the best you can get. Unfortunately, I haven't yet found an Aussie site anything like badcaps.net. There are ten of the 6.3v 3300uf caps on the board. I've found four leaky ones all told, so far. But a few of the others show slight signs of bulging. So if I go to the trouble of replacing any of the 3300uf caps, I guess it may as well be all of them. But that would cost about half the price of a new motherboard, and if I replaced all of the other dozen or so 1000uf caps on the board, well, you can see where I'm going with this can't you. (-: So I've reached a bit of an impasse. Taking into consideration that they didn't start leaking (and have now stopped) till I tested that PCI VGA card, which is no longer in the system. Should I just replace the obviously bad caps or...., what? Cheers m8. LOL, for some reason you don't seem to be replying to my posts directly. Is it because I'm a New Zealander? g IMO the fitting of the graphics card and the caps problem are coincidental. It's probably just that you were looking at the mobo. If I were you I'd replace all the caps that are visibly showing signs of internal pressure, be it leaking or bulging, then have a few spares on hand. When you're buying less than lots of 1,000, caps do seem to be fairly expensive. I buy mine from these guys: http://www.sicom.co.nz/ C6.3R3300HX On this page page: http://www.sicom.co.nz/xurl/function...3/content.html I don't know if they ship to Aussie though. Your best bet is probably to find an Aussie electronics newsgroup and ask there for a supplier. Cheers, -- Shaun. DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it. If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-) |
#17
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Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.
~misfit~ wrote:
Somewhere on teh intarweb "Xam" typed: Rob wrote: "Xam" wrote in message ... William wrote: "~misfit~" wrote in message ... Somewhere on teh intarweb "William" typed: "Xam" wrote in message ... Hi Gang. Not the worst news but I have two leaky capacitors on my old faithful Asus A7N266-VM. The caps are situated right next to the CPU socket on the PCI slot side. The system still runs well, but they only just started leaking yesterday, AFAIK. If you look at the graphic on the link page below, youcan see them quite clearly. There is two copper coils next to them on their right, with the CPU socket on the left. http://www.techtree.com/India/Review...48937-636.html It may just be a coincidence but, I was testing a 64DDR Radeon 7000 PCI card yesterday for a friend. The card worked fine in my system. It was after the test (I let it run for a few hours) that I noticed one tiny piece of smeg on the top of one cap. Now today there is a whole lot more on the other, as well as about the same on the top of the first. Can anyone tell me what they are for, what may have caused this, and can I just replace them? Also, is there anything else I should know, before proceeding? Thanks for your time and consideration of my problem. -Adrian Other hardwa AMD Athlon 2000+ CPU. 1 gig of ram. (1 x 512 PC400 + 1 x 512 PC333) 2 x 40 gig HDD 1 x CD RW 1 x DVD RW 550 watt PSU -- I'm not afraid to die. I just don't want to be there when it happens. -- NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition. http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client. All in one internet application suite. Xam: Do you have any experience working on pc boards that use surface mount devices? Working with capacitors mounted on such pc boards that use through-the-hole plating for signal/power path distribution requires a high level of skill to work with to prevent damage to the board. If you have experience, then you know this. If this is something new to you, you should get your hands on an old discarded pc board and do some practice and develop a technique for yourself. It will be necessary to learn how to use a proper soldering gun/stick to melt the solder around the leads of the capacitor without harming the pc board. Usually a solder sucker of some type is used to remove the molten solder from the holes in use by the capacitors. A pair of pliers is then used to move the capacitor leads around in the hole to confirm the free movement of the leads before removal of the capacitor. It is extremely important that you do not put any stress on the plating used to coat the internal area of the hole in the pc board. Repairing components on state-of-the-art pc boards has become such an advanced skill that few technicians outside of large factory settings have the equipment or skills to do such work for what a consumer would be willing to pay for. Be careful, practice, or you will render the pc board worthless. William It's always good to have a friend who does this kind of stuff and purchase a good bottle of Whiskey for them to do the job for you. (It's amazing what a good bottle of Whiskey will get done for you.) Or you could get your husband to do it for you. ;-) -- He will get his butane burner out and use it. It worked OK on his truck last time. Or maybe he will get that old wood burner out that he has laying in his drawer left over from his Boy Scouts days doing Indian motif projects for his badge. He'll have to knock off the sawdust of course. That led acid solder should do the job left over from the pipe work done last year on the sink. William lol. Thanks everyone for all the tips. I have done some solder work before, and even some of that was on PC boards. But I don't own a solder sucker. I have always wanted one though. This may just be the excuse I needed to buy one. (-: I usually end up blowing the molten solder off. But this method has the problem that it tends to blow it all over everything else. I live in Australia, but should be able to find an Aussie site that is the equivalent of badcaps.com. But I have to go to town today to buy some other electrical stuff, so I will have a look. The caps are only rated at 105 degrees (6.3v 3300uf), so I will look for some 150 degrees caps. The lead spacing, I am not sure of though. The caps are 10 mm across, so the lead spacing must be less than that. 6 or 8 mm perhaps. Unfortunately, I am the most computer/electrical savy person I know. Otherwise the whiskey option would definitely be the best. I've heard of some that physically pull the cans off of the caps, leaving the leads still connected to the mobo (obviously the internals of the cap need cutting off, if they remain attached) and then have soldered the new caps to these lead stubs. I wouldn't recommend that method, but it's a possibility if you can't get the old leads out. HTH (and good luck!), Sounds like a viable solution, if a little rough and ready! (-: I didn't have much luck in town yesterday, but I still have a couple of irons in the fire, if you'll excuse the pun. I have found an on-line Aussie source for Rubycon capacitors. http://stores.ebay.com.au/UnicareAU They want AU$2.80 (AU$1.00 = US$0.95) a piece for them though, but they are 50v. Is that much difference in voltage rating acceptable? The heat range isn't mentioned, but from what I've read on badcaps.net, Rubycon are the best you can get. Unfortunately, I haven't yet found an Aussie site anything like badcaps.net. There are ten of the 6.3v 3300uf caps on the board. I've found four leaky ones all told, so far. But a few of the others show slight signs of bulging. So if I go to the trouble of replacing any of the 3300uf caps, I guess it may as well be all of them. But that would cost about half the price of a new motherboard, and if I replaced all of the other dozen or so 1000uf caps on the board, well, you can see where I'm going with this can't you. (-: So I've reached a bit of an impasse. Taking into consideration that they didn't start leaking (and have now stopped) till I tested that PCI VGA card, which is no longer in the system. Should I just replace the obviously bad caps or...., what? Cheers m8. LOL, for some reason you don't seem to be replying to my posts directly. Is it because I'm a New Zealander? g IMO the fitting of the graphics card and the caps problem are coincidental. It's probably just that you were looking at the mobo. If I were you I'd replace all the caps that are visibly showing signs of internal pressure, be it leaking or bulging, then have a few spares on hand. When you're buying less than lots of 1,000, caps do seem to be fairly expensive. I buy mine from these guys: http://www.sicom.co.nz/ C6.3R3300HX On this page page: http://www.sicom.co.nz/xurl/function...3/content.html I don't know if they ship to Aussie though. Your best bet is probably to find an Aussie electronics newsgroup and ask there for a supplier. Cheers, lol, well actually unless you look at your headers directly, there is no real way of knowing you are a Kiwi. X-Original-NNTP-Posting-Host: 202-154-150-202.ubs-dynamic.connections.net.nz Sounds like sound advice though. I'll have to investigate those links. But as you would know, most Kiwi and Aussie mobs trade across the creek. We'll have to get around to widening the bridge one of these days. Two lanes just isn't wide enough. (-; Thanks m8. -Adrian -- "A good sermon should be like a woman's skirt: short enough to arouse interest, but long enough to cover the essentials." (-; ~Ronald Knox -- NetscapeMozilla SuiteSeamonkey A blatant plug for the latest offering in a fine tradition. http://www.mozilla.org/projects/seamonkey/releases Browser, Mail & Usenet, HTML Editor and IRC Client. All in one internet application suite. |
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Asus A7N266-VM with two leeky capacitors.
"Xam" wrote in message ... snip I have found an on-line Aussie source for Rubycon capacitors. http://stores.ebay.com.au/UnicareAU Try: http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/digihome.html They have international sales locations you can order from. Locations in :New Zealand; Hong Kong; Singapore; Taiwan and many more. Do you have Radio Shacks in your area? Also, call your local Consumer Electronics Service Agency and find out where they get their parts from. Every major town has a whole sale distributor in it. You could probably even look it up in the yellow pages in your phone book. Check out Rubycon's web site, they would probably suggest a local distributor if you e-mailed them. BTW - be sure that 50v version will fit in the space provided by the old one. As the voltage rating goes up, the size goes up too, (their are exceptions to this rule.) You could even consider putting in tantalum capacitors in their place and get away from electrolytic capacitors all together. Some better mobos stay away from electrolytic capacitors completely. All this stuff is going to cost right around the fair market value of the used mobo. William. They want AU$2.80 (AU$1.00 = US$0.95) a piece for them though, but they are 50v. Is that much difference in voltage rating acceptable? The heat range isn't mentioned, but from what I've read on badcaps.net, Rubycon are the best you can get. Unfortunately, I haven't yet found an Aussie site anything like badcaps.net. There are ten of the 6.3v 3300uf caps on the board. I've found four leaky ones all told, so far. But a few of the others show slight signs of bulging. So if I go to the trouble of replacing any of the 3300uf caps, I guess it may as well be all of them. But that would cost about half the price of a new motherboard, and if I replaced all of the other dozen or so 1000uf caps on the board, well, you can see where I'm going with this can't you. (-: So I've reached a bit of an impasse. Taking into consideration that they didn't start leaking (and have now stopped) till I tested that PCI VGA card, which is no longer in the system. Should I just replace the obviously bad caps or...., what? snip |
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