Looking for serial cable for ga790gpt-ud3h

Looking to finally add a serial port output to my system. Do not want to
use a USB to Serial adapter. Have tried to google and just went around
in circles. Tried Newegg, about the same, unless I want to order from AU.

--
Randy

robby wrote:
Looking to finally add a serial port output to my system. Do not want to
use a USB to Serial adapter. Have tried to google and just went around
in circles. Tried Newegg, about the same, unless I want to order from AU.

Why not use a pcie to serial adaptor?
They work great. Get a pcie 1x or 4x.

robby wrote:
Looking to finally add a serial port output to my system. Do not want to
use a USB to Serial adapter. Have tried to google and just went around
in circles. Tried Newegg, about the same, unless I want to order from AU.


They come in "two flavors".

AT/Everex
http://www.pccables.com/07120.htm

DTK
http://www.pccables.com/07121.htm

So you need to know what the company uses as their "defacto"
standard, before purchasing one. And the companies can
either admit to the wiring pattern, by documenting
it in the manual, or keeping it a "secret" so people
have to test manually and figure it out.

If the Gigabyte manual has a table, you can compare it
to a page like this one. In a past exercise of this type,
Gigabyte may have been AT/Everex as well.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx102_2.html

If you buy one of each, you're bound to get it right
eventually. I'd connect up a candidate, then connect
a multimeter (an analog one is best) to the Transmit
pin, use Hyperterm and send a few characters, and
see if the Transmit pin makes the analog meter "jump"
a bit. That's how I'd verify I had the correct adapter
plate connected. This guy did something similar.

http://web.archive.org/web/201004022...y/p4c800e.html

If you use a digital multimeter to detect a "jump",
it may take many tries until the meter reading deflects.
The analog meter, a twitch is easier to see.

To make the voltage jump more visible, you can try dropping
the serial port rate. Hyperterm, when you set up a connection,
allows you to set the baud rate. Or, in a command prompt window,
something along these lines can set the baud rate. You can
then send stuff to com1 in the command prompt window.
You could try dropping to 110 baud for example.

mode com1: 9600,8,n,1

copy file.txt com1

In Linux, it would be something like "setserial".

HTH,
Paul

On Sat, 09 Jun 2012 16:20:49 -0400, Paul wrote:

robby wrote:
Looking to finally add a serial port output to my system. Do not want
to use a USB to Serial adapter. Have tried to google and just went
around in circles. Tried Newegg, about the same, unless I want to
order from AU.


They come in "two flavors".

AT/Everex http://www.pccables.com/07120.htm

DTK http://www.pccables.com/07121.htm

So you need to know what the company uses as their "defacto"
standard, before purchasing one. And the companies can either admit to
the wiring pattern, by documenting it in the manual, or keeping it a
"secret" so people have to test manually and figure it out.

If the Gigabyte manual has a table, you can compare it to a page like
this one. In a past exercise of this type,
Gigabyte may have been AT/Everex as well.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx102_2.html

If you buy one of each, you're bound to get it right eventually. I'd
connect up a candidate, then connect a multimeter (an analog one is
best) to the Transmit pin, use Hyperterm and send a few characters, and
see if the Transmit pin makes the analog meter "jump"
a bit. That's how I'd verify I had the correct adapter plate connected.
This guy did something similar.

http://web.archive.org/web/201004022...y/p4c800e.html

If you use a digital multimeter to detect a "jump",
it may take many tries until the meter reading deflects.
The analog meter, a twitch is easier to see.

To make the voltage jump more visible, you can try dropping the serial
port rate. Hyperterm, when you set up a connection,
allows you to set the baud rate. Or, in a command prompt window,
something along these lines can set the baud rate. You can then send
stuff to com1 in the command prompt window.
You could try dropping to 110 baud for example.

mode com1: 9600,8,n,1

copy file.txt com1

In Linux, it would be something like "setserial".

HTH,
Paul

Been down that road before, re the card. At present I run 4 versions of
Linux on this box. The MB has no parallel port. So I tried a pci bus card,
which allegedly would run on Windows or Linux. The drivers for Linux would
not work as they were verrry out of date and the provider would NOT answer
any questions. Ended up buying a cheap USB to Parallel Cable, and have had
no problems.

I had rather try to get the cable listed in the manual so I can just plug into the
MB serial port header and go from there.

Thanks Paul

robby wrote:
On Sat, 09 Jun 2012 16:20:49 -0400, Paul wrote:

robby wrote:
Looking to finally add a serial port output to my system. Do not want
to use a USB to Serial adapter. Have tried to google and just went
around in circles. Tried Newegg, about the same, unless I want to
order from AU.


They come in "two flavors".

AT/Everex http://www.pccables.com/07120.htm

DTK http://www.pccables.com/07121.htm

So you need to know what the company uses as their "defacto"
standard, before purchasing one. And the companies can either admit to
the wiring pattern, by documenting it in the manual, or keeping it a
"secret" so people have to test manually and figure it out.

If the Gigabyte manual has a table, you can compare it to a page like
this one. In a past exercise of this type,
Gigabyte may have been AT/Everex as well.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx102_2.html

If you buy one of each, you're bound to get it right eventually. I'd
connect up a candidate, then connect a multimeter (an analog one is
best) to the Transmit pin, use Hyperterm and send a few characters, and
see if the Transmit pin makes the analog meter "jump"
a bit. That's how I'd verify I had the correct adapter plate connected.
This guy did something similar.

http://web.archive.org/web/201004022...y/p4c800e.html

If you use a digital multimeter to detect a "jump",
it may take many tries until the meter reading deflects.
The analog meter, a twitch is easier to see.

To make the voltage jump more visible, you can try dropping the serial
port rate. Hyperterm, when you set up a connection,
allows you to set the baud rate. Or, in a command prompt window,
something along these lines can set the baud rate. You can then send
stuff to com1 in the command prompt window.
You could try dropping to 110 baud for example.

mode com1: 9600,8,n,1

copy file.txt com1

In Linux, it would be something like "setserial".

HTH,
Paul

Been down that road before, re the card. At present I run 4 versions of
Linux on this box. The MB has no parallel port. So I tried a pci bus card,
which allegedly would run on Windows or Linux. The drivers for Linux would
not work as they were verrry out of date and the provider would NOT answer
any questions. Ended up buying a cheap USB to Parallel Cable, and have had
no problems.

I had rather try to get the cable listed in the manual so I can just plug into the
MB serial port header and go from there.

Thanks Paul

From the manual. SIN = RX, SOUT = TX. The signal names were likely
copied right out of the schematic, without being "beautified" by
the tech writer.

Pin No. Definition
1 NDCD-
2 NSIN
3 NSOUT
4 NDTR-
5 GND
6 NDSR-
7 NRTS-
8 NCTS-
9 NRI-
10 No Pin

That seems to match the FrontX link above.
So it's probably an AT-Everex.

Since I've stared at those stupid diagrams many times,
and got it wrong in the past, do your best to verify
before buying. If you can find a cheap source for the
adapters, and shipping is more than the adapters cost,
then buying some of each will help cover your bets.

*******

Trivia section.

Note that, in addition to there being at least two different
types of 2x5 based adapter plates, RS232 has DTE and DCE.
(Computer has one role, modem has the other role.)
Any time I work on this stuff, I have to go back and verify
"what exactly do they put on the back of computers" :-) I
think it's DTE, but again, you'd want to verify that.
In the early days of building systems, we managed to make
boxes with both, which led to lots of adventures in the
lab. We even managed to provide "hard power" on one of
our serial port pins (one of my bosses probably thought
that was clever), and if the ground on a cable bumped
up against that connector, sometimes it would draw a spark :-)
Good times.

Paul

On Sun, 10 Jun 2012 07:32:36 -0400, Paul wrote:

robby wrote:
On Sat, 09 Jun 2012 16:20:49 -0400, Paul wrote:

robby wrote:
Looking to finally add a serial port output to my system. Do not
want to use a USB to Serial adapter. Have tried to google and just
went around in circles. Tried Newegg, about the same, unless I want
to order from AU.


They come in "two flavors".

AT/Everex http://www.pccables.com/07120.htm

DTK http://www.pccables.com/07121.htm

So you need to know what the company uses as their "defacto"
standard, before purchasing one. And the companies can either admit to
the wiring pattern, by documenting it in the manual, or keeping it a
"secret" so people have to test manually and figure it out.

If the Gigabyte manual has a table, you can compare it to a page like
this one. In a past exercise of this type,
Gigabyte may have been AT/Everex as well.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx102_2.html

If you buy one of each, you're bound to get it right eventually. I'd
connect up a candidate, then connect a multimeter (an analog one is
best) to the Transmit pin, use Hyperterm and send a few characters,
and see if the Transmit pin makes the analog meter "jump"
a bit. That's how I'd verify I had the correct adapter plate
connected.
This guy did something similar.

http://web.archive.org/web/201004022...y/p4c800e.html

If you use a digital multimeter to detect a "jump",
it may take many tries until the meter reading deflects.
The analog meter, a twitch is easier to see.

To make the voltage jump more visible, you can try dropping the serial
port rate. Hyperterm, when you set up a connection,
allows you to set the baud rate. Or, in a command prompt window,
something along these lines can set the baud rate. You can then send
stuff to com1 in the command prompt window.
You could try dropping to 110 baud for example.

mode com1: 9600,8,n,1

copy file.txt com1

In Linux, it would be something like "setserial".

HTH,
Paul

Been down that road before, re the card. At present I run 4 versions
of Linux on this box. The MB has no parallel port. So I tried a pci
bus card, which allegedly would run on Windows or Linux. The drivers
for Linux would not work as they were verrry out of date and the
provider would NOT answer any questions. Ended up buying a cheap USB
to Parallel Cable, and have had no problems.

I had rather try to get the cable listed in the manual so I can just
plug into the MB serial port header and go from there.

Thanks Paul

From the manual. SIN = RX, SOUT = TX. The signal names were likely
copied right out of the schematic, without being "beautified" by the
tech writer.

Pin No. Definition 1 NDCD-
2 NSIN 3 NSOUT 4 NDTR-
5 GND 6 NDSR-
7 NRTS-
8 NCTS-
9 NRI-
10 No Pin

That seems to match the FrontX link above.
So it's probably an AT-Everex.

Since I've stared at those stupid diagrams many times,
and got it wrong in the past, do your best to verify before buying. If
you can find a cheap source for the adapters, and shipping is more than
the adapters cost,
then buying some of each will help cover your bets.

*******

Trivia section.

Note that, in addition to there being at least two different types of
2x5 based adapter plates, RS232 has DTE and DCE. (Computer has one role,
modem has the other role.)
Any time I work on this stuff, I have to go back and verify "what
exactly do they put on the back of computers" :-) I think it's DTE, but
again, you'd want to verify that.
In the early days of building systems, we managed to make boxes with
both, which led to lots of adventures in the lab. We even managed to
provide "hard power" on one of our serial port pins (one of my bosses
probably thought that was clever), and if the ground on a cable bumped
up against that connector, sometimes it would draw a spark :-) Good
times.

Paul

My first "System" was a Japanese import by the name of IBEX.. 64 Kbytes of memory
running at an unbelieveable 2.5 Mhz. Two 8 inch DSDD floppy drives + 10 MByte
HDD. To add a Hayes Smartmodem I had to program the UARTs in binary..
Manual was in three 2.5 inch ring binders, all xerox copies with english translation
scribbled in prior to copying. Oh yea, CP/M... and WordStar, SpellStar, etc.

That was around 1983.

Since 1991 All my systems were Home Built. First built system had Windoze for workgroups 3.1

This one has Ubuntu Lucid, Mint 11, Mint LMDE, and Mint 13 (MATE)

robby