If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
P65UP5 Dead PSU, Need Help
Gudday.
I have a P65UP5 with dual Pentium Pro's. The PSU died, so after hunting around I managed to get an equivalent wattage PSU (230Watts). This new PSU has indications of: 3.3Volts. normal voltges and Black COM Return Green P-ON Remote Gray PG P-OK The old PSU had not indications of any of these 'funcitons' although of course the power connectors have the same colour coding. The machine is completely dead. The power and Turbo LED's do not light up - I have tried both in both ways, but the CPU heatsink fans both spin as does the PSU fan. I have stripped the m/b to CPU's, memory & Graphics only. No beeps at all. I reset the CMOS..... Does anyone know if the PSU is suitable or not? Any hints are really appreciated. Fortunately (or not) this is not my machine.... Thanks, Tim |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
In article , "Tim" wrote:
Gudday. I have a P65UP5 with dual Pentium Pro's. The PSU died, so after hunting around I managed to get an equivalent wattage PSU (230Watts). This new PSU has indications of: 3.3Volts. normal voltges and Black COM Return Green P-ON Remote Gray PG P-OK The old PSU had not indications of any of these 'funcitons' although of course the power connectors have the same colour coding. The machine is completely dead. The power and Turbo LED's do not light up - I have tried both in both ways, but the CPU heatsink fans both spin as does the PSU fan. I have stripped the m/b to CPU's, memory & Graphics only. No beeps at all. I reset the CMOS..... Does anyone know if the PSU is suitable or not? Any hints are really appreciated. Fortunately (or not) this is not my machine.... Thanks, Tim First of all, did you download a manual ? If you use the Asus download page, there appear to be four models matching P65UP5, but they all seem to use the same manual. I guess there are options or something. Start by looking at page 24: http://www.asus.com.cn/pub/ASUS/mb/s...p65up5-204.pdf +5V (RED) +5V (RED) +5V (RED) -5V (WHITE) GND (BLACK) GND (BLACK) GND (BLACK) GND (BLACK) -12V (BLUE) +12V (YELLOW) +5V (RED) PG (ORANGE) So, the motherboard doesn't have a requirement for 3.3V. I think the motherboard uses an AT power supply, whereas today ATX power supplies are much more common. I think an AT supply is only controlled by the power switch on the back of the computer, whereas the ATX can be controlled not only by the switch on the back, but also by connecting the PS_ON# signal to GND (COM). Since the new power supply you bought has a P_ON signal, maybe it is an ATX supply ? I'm confused... This won't prevent it from working, and it sounds like somehow you've got power flowing from it. Make sure that the pinout of the P9 and P8 six pin sections above match what you are plugging in. Each hole should be occupied with a power pin, because if you only connect one +5V wire, for example, too much current ends up flowing through one pin and the pin in the connector can overheat or burn the plastic. The connection on that pin can end up being intermittent after that (I know because I've had that kind of trouble in the past with this style connector). If this was my motherboard, I would start by preparing a matching pinout from supply to motherboard. With the power supply disconnected from the motherboard, take a cheap multimeter and measure the voltage on each pin you plan on connecting, to make sure you haven't made any wiring errors. Then, power down and connect the PS to the motherboard. If it still doesn't start, maybe the reason the old power supply died, is because one of the supply rails on the motherboard has become shorted to GND. This can happen, for example, if some of the electrolytic capacitors have leaked or dried out and they are now shorting the rails they are filtering. The capacitors can be replaced, and there are plenty of posts in the Abit newsgroup to be found in groups.google.com on replacing caps. There is even a guy who will do the entire board for roughly $50, but that is too much money to spend on a project like this. ATX power supply connector - short PS_ON# to an adjacent COM, to have an "always on" supply of power. Then, pick the pins you need, to get power to whatever electronics project you are doing: What an ATX connector looks like: http://www.formfactors.org/developer...atx/atx2_1.pdf (pg.19) Example of an AT power supply (the first I could find): http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/support/docs/G230S.htm If the new supply is being overloaded, perhaps the PG (Power_Good) signal is never asserted by the power supply to the motherboard. The motherboard operation should be gated (prevented from operating) unless the PS tells the motherboard it is happy. If the AT supply uses positive true logic (and I don't have an AT spec, so I don't know this), you might see +5V on the PG pin when it is happy, or a voltage closer to 0V when it is not. HTH, Paul |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks Paul,
The PSU is clearly marked as being an AT PSU... I had to go to several retail shops and a 2nd hand parts dealer before I found an AT PSU - this one is brand new. The fact that it is an AT PSU is why I find it odd to find the three extra notations on the PSU label indicated below (COM, P-ON, PG / P-OK). I will work through your notes checking the voltages presented. I will try shorting the COM and PS_ON if all voltages are not presented with the PSU disconnected. I have done a preliminary inspection of the mobo - it is still in the case. All capacitors "appear" good. the mobo is 100% clean, although the CPU daughter card shows signs of what I can only describe as water. IE traces of sediment style 'stuff' - this may have been there at manufacture and be the result of the board not being cleaned completely after soldering. There are no signs of this sediment anywhere else & considering the CPU card has the copper pattern facing down when mounted, water would have to be very selectively sprayed upwards, so I don't think anything like this has happened. I am going to remove the mobo from the case, all memory & all else, and just try and get some beeps out of it after checking the speaker. While it is out, I'll check for power on the mobo... The mobo is so dead at this point that it is either a catastrophic failure / short or the PSU is supplying no juice at all. Thanks, - Tim "Paul" wrote in message ... In article , "Tim" wrote: Gudday. I have a P65UP5 with dual Pentium Pro's. The PSU died, so after hunting around I managed to get an equivalent wattage PSU (230Watts). This new PSU has indications of: 3.3Volts. normal voltges and Black COM Return Green P-ON Remote Gray PG P-OK The old PSU had not indications of any of these 'funcitons' although of course the power connectors have the same colour coding. The machine is completely dead. The power and Turbo LED's do not light up - I have tried both in both ways, but the CPU heatsink fans both spin as does the PSU fan. I have stripped the m/b to CPU's, memory & Graphics only. No beeps at all. I reset the CMOS..... Does anyone know if the PSU is suitable or not? Any hints are really appreciated. Fortunately (or not) this is not my machine.... Thanks, Tim First of all, did you download a manual ? If you use the Asus download page, there appear to be four models matching P65UP5, but they all seem to use the same manual. I guess there are options or something. Start by looking at page 24: http://www.asus.com.cn/pub/ASUS/mb/s...p65up5-204.pdf +5V (RED) +5V (RED) +5V (RED) -5V (WHITE) GND (BLACK) GND (BLACK) GND (BLACK) GND (BLACK) -12V (BLUE) +12V (YELLOW) +5V (RED) PG (ORANGE) So, the motherboard doesn't have a requirement for 3.3V. I think the motherboard uses an AT power supply, whereas today ATX power supplies are much more common. I think an AT supply is only controlled by the power switch on the back of the computer, whereas the ATX can be controlled not only by the switch on the back, but also by connecting the PS_ON# signal to GND (COM). Since the new power supply you bought has a P_ON signal, maybe it is an ATX supply ? I'm confused... This won't prevent it from working, and it sounds like somehow you've got power flowing from it. Make sure that the pinout of the P9 and P8 six pin sections above match what you are plugging in. Each hole should be occupied with a power pin, because if you only connect one +5V wire, for example, too much current ends up flowing through one pin and the pin in the connector can overheat or burn the plastic. The connection on that pin can end up being intermittent after that (I know because I've had that kind of trouble in the past with this style connector). If this was my motherboard, I would start by preparing a matching pinout from supply to motherboard. With the power supply disconnected from the motherboard, take a cheap multimeter and measure the voltage on each pin you plan on connecting, to make sure you haven't made any wiring errors. Then, power down and connect the PS to the motherboard. If it still doesn't start, maybe the reason the old power supply died, is because one of the supply rails on the motherboard has become shorted to GND. This can happen, for example, if some of the electrolytic capacitors have leaked or dried out and they are now shorting the rails they are filtering. The capacitors can be replaced, and there are plenty of posts in the Abit newsgroup to be found in groups.google.com on replacing caps. There is even a guy who will do the entire board for roughly $50, but that is too much money to spend on a project like this. ATX power supply connector - short PS_ON# to an adjacent COM, to have an "always on" supply of power. Then, pick the pins you need, to get power to whatever electronics project you are doing: What an ATX connector looks like: http://www.formfactors.org/developer...atx/atx2_1.pdf (pg.19) Example of an AT power supply (the first I could find): http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/support/docs/G230S.htm If the new supply is being overloaded, perhaps the PG (Power_Good) signal is never asserted by the power supply to the motherboard. The motherboard operation should be gated (prevented from operating) unless the PS tells the motherboard it is happy. If the AT supply uses positive true logic (and I don't have an AT spec, so I don't know this), you might see +5V on the PG pin when it is happy, or a voltage closer to 0V when it is not. HTH, Paul |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
It was the reset switch.
The PSU is wrongly labelled. It didn't have any gray or green conductors... - Tim "Tim" wrote in message ... Gudday. I have a P65UP5 with dual Pentium Pro's. The PSU died, so after hunting around I managed to get an equivalent wattage PSU (230Watts). This new PSU has indications of: 3.3Volts. normal voltges and Black COM Return Green P-ON Remote Gray PG P-OK The old PSU had not indications of any of these 'funcitons' although of course the power connectors have the same colour coding. The machine is completely dead. The power and Turbo LED's do not light up - I have tried both in both ways, but the CPU heatsink fans both spin as does the PSU fan. I have stripped the m/b to CPU's, memory & Graphics only. No beeps at all. I reset the CMOS..... Does anyone know if the PSU is suitable or not? Any hints are really appreciated. Fortunately (or not) this is not my machine.... Thanks, Tim |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
current/voltage peak: HD & PD drive dead | ~misfit~ | General | 7 | May 15th 04 08:21 PM |
Wanted: Dead Hard Drives | Captain | Overclocking | 3 | December 21st 03 10:14 AM |
Wanted: Dead Hard Drives | Captain | Overclocking AMD Processors | 0 | December 19th 03 09:20 PM |
What's the dead pixel frequency for TFT monitors? | John123 | Homebuilt PC's | 12 | October 3rd 03 01:06 PM |
A7N8X DL, dead... again, after the first reboot | Nik | Asus Motherboards | 4 | July 2nd 03 11:05 PM |