x800xl and Far Cry, disasterous!

What power supply do you have in this rig? sounds too low end.
McG.

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:h5m1f.599$UF4.467@fed1read02...

...WHAT - A - DISASTER!!!

My tech specs:

WinXP home SP2
Abit IS7 mobo
P4c HT 2.60ghz
1 gb Kingston Dual channel PC3200/DDR400 Value RAM
Maxtor 80gb 7200rpm/8mb on a seralell (Siralell?) adapter
Maxtor 40gb 7200/2MB storage disc
New Pioneer DVD drive
Sony burner
x800xl AGP made by ATI, 256/256bit 400gpu / 980RAM...
-- Product ID: 100-435508
-- using Omega 5.9 drivers only, thus far

On first attempt, using the fully upgraded Far Cry 1.33, the computer
shuts down fully, power all the way off, taking much MB electricity with
it, as takes 3 minutes to be able to turn it on again. This happens time
after
time and it played fine, if a little slow, using the old GF4 Ti4600. by
Chaintech.

After the second occurance I increased the AGP voltage by a half a point
as well as the same for the P4 CPU... then I was able to start the game
and
play a while at increased graphics levels and some types shadows for
smaller objects were not black, but green and yellow. When driving a
vehicle
it froze after a while, then it was all over for good, and same story.

I must have worked with this for 5 hours, and gone through 25 restarts...
Anyone know what can be done before I grab a replacement RMA?

TIA all,

--
Giant_Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com

'Alfie' wrote, in part:
| Most of that info came from my own experiences when I first put a nVidia
| Geforce 6800 GPU (requiring 1 additional PSU connection) in my PC, it
| would often power down for no reason whatsoever, and then trying to find
| out why
_____

Well, a few anecdotes don't a summer make.
1. ATX specification power supplies (ATX12V and later) don't operate in the
manner you seem to have understood. They have 'load sharing' - wattage is
shared among the important rails, +12V, +5V, and +3.3V.

2. A display adapter using the nVidia 6800 uses far less power (perhaps
half) compared to one using the nVidia 6800 Ultra.

3. New GPUs aren't 'requiring their own power'; some display adapter have
several connecting pins for +12V DC; this connects to the same +12V DC rail
that drives use. This replaces power that was previously drawn from the +5V
DC and/or +3.3V DC rails. The display adapters have on-board DC-to-DC
down-convertor/regulators that work more efficiently with +12V DC input than
with +5V DC or +3.3V DC input. The connecting wires and traces can be
smaller. The higher input voltage provides more stable operation. There is
power wasted and less heat produced using +12V DC than with the lower
voltages. Just because a display adapter requires a +12V DC connector
doesn't mean it draws more power than one which does not - it may even draw
less for the reasons just given. Using multiple +12V DC connectors SAVES
power because less in wasted in contact and conductor resistance.

4. Multiple USB devices ~= multiple fans ~= negligible. Multiple drives ~=
not very much except during spin-up.
ATX power supplies DO NOT SHUT THEMSELVES DOWN IF TOO MUCH POWER IS DRAWN!
ATX power supplies DO shut down if a dead short develops. ATX power
supplies will begin to overheat if to much power is drawn, but this takes a
relatively long period of time, much longer than the period of time for
drives to spin up. The overload protection fuse is to protect the AC wiring
with in the case and the AC wiring between the case and the building breaker
box. This fuse is a safety feature, not an overload protector. An overload
of several times the rated power is necessary to blow the fuse within a few
minutes.

5. | I replaced my system with a
| 500w power system but it would also suffer power downs for no apparent
| reason. I was advised that my system did not draw enough power and the
| PSU was invoking power-over management and reducing power output to
| avoid a 'burn'.
You were advised wrongly.

6. | Hmm, yes, questionable. The calc suggested 310w used, so I put in a
350w
| cheapo and when it got hot it would power down. Using the mobo power
| check, when it was hot the PSU delivered less power, to the point it
| would trip. I bought a more expensive 350w dual rail PSU and it was much
| more stable.
In all probability your system was inadequately ventilated, though it may
also be that your power supply was falsly rated. What was the room ambient
temperature and the temperature of the air leaving the power supply? Did
you check, or did you just rely on what you were told? Power supplies are
rated at a specific temperatures. At higher temperatures they must be
derated. A power supply that is more than adequate at 60 C can be
inadequate at 75 C.

7. | I was advised by others not to put in a 500w PSU as I first wanted to
| do. Yes PSUs have under-draw protection, but prolonged use at low power
| levels supposedly reduces the lifetime of the PSU.
You were advised wrongly.

Really, try studying the two documents from formfactor.org. The next time
you get advice on ATX power supplies, try asking follow-up questions. It
really does sound as if your previous advice came from someone unclear on
the difference between switching powersupplies and linear power supplies.




"Alfie [UK]" wrote in message
...
| On Fri, 07 Oct 2005 18:51:03 GMT, "Phil Weldon"
| wrote:
| 'Alfie [UK]' wrote, in part:
| | The OP was advised it may be a problem with power supply because of the
| | shutdowns. Most new graphics card need 1 or 2 direct power connections
| | and this means a 300w PSU just won't cut it anymore.
| _____
|
| Most of that info came from my own experiences when I first put a nVidia
| Geforce 6800 GPU (requiring 1 additional PSU connection) in my PC, it
| would often power down for no reason whatsoever, and then trying to find
| out why.
|
| Your statement 'Most new graphics card need 1 or 2 direct power
connections
| and this means a 300w PSU just won't cut it anymore.' isn't necessarily
| true; a 300 watt PSU may very will be completely adequate.
|
| OK, I should have said MAY not cut it anymore. With the new GPUs
| requiring their own power if you have multiple drives and USB devices
| you MAY run out of power. The PSU will shut itself down in these
| situations, pretty much any PSU has a built in fuse for too much power.
|
| Your statement 'if you have a too high rated PSU and are not drawing a
| significant power level the PSU can shutdown, act erratically, or blow
it's
| 12v rails through 'overheating' is not at all true.
|
| I stand by this statement, to some degree. I replaced my system with a
| 500w power system but it would also suffer power downs for no apparent
| reason. I was advised that my system did not draw enough power and the
| PSU was invoking power-over management and reducing power output to
| avoid a 'burn'.
|
| Your statement| 'You want at least 20% more power coming out of your PSU
| than the calculator says you need to be safe from the typical
fluctuations
| you can get in a PSU, especially cheaper PSUs that might not have a
stable
| power profile.' makes no sense at all.
|
| Hmm, yes, questionable. The calc suggested 310w used, so I put in a 350w
| cheapo and when it got hot it would power down. Using the mobo power
| check, when it was hot the PSU delivered less power, to the point it
| would trip. I bought a more expensive 350w dual rail PSU and it was much
| more stable.
|
| Your statement 'Over 65% more power means you are at risk of damaging
your
| PSU through 'overheating' as it's generating a lot more power than you
| need.' is ludicrous.
|
| I was advised by others not to put in a 500w PSU as I first wanted to
| do. Yes PSUs have under-draw protection, but prolonged use at low power
| levels supposedly reduces the lifetime of the PSU.
|
| As the 2nd link you provided states; PSUs MAY not have over-temperature
| protection, where over-temperature is the result of current overload or
| fan failure.
|
| Try a read of
|
http://www.formfactors.org/developer...0Ratified.pdff
| and
| http://www.formfactors.org/developer...public_br2.pdf
| .
| Pay particular attention to:
| "System power supply needs vary widely depending on factors such as the
| application (that is, for desktop, workstation, or server), intended
ambient
| environment (temperature, line voltage), or motherboard power
requirements."
|
| --
| Alfie
| http://www.delphia.co.uk/
| It's called Irony. You know. Like goldy or silvery, only it's made out of
iron.
|

If it's a cheapie PS,it doesn't matter if it's 800W!! Not saying you've got
a crappy PS. But if it doesn't have enough amperage on the 12V(18A at least)
and 5V(35A at least) you might get problems with new hardware and software..
It could be Far cry stresses everthing and shows some weaknesess. I could be
wrong. Might be a software problem with motherboard drivers or even sound
drivers.

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:VXo1f.630$UF4.88@fed1read02...

It's probably related to your power supply. You are probably using too
much
power for it to handle. anything less than 350 watt power supply and you
are
asking for trouble. If you have alot drives etc then a 450 watt PSU
would be
the go.


Thanks but that's what I've got, 450 watts and it is plugged into the
card.
No other game besides Far Cry shuts the computer down.

--
Giant_Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com

On Fri, 07 Oct 2005 23:16:11 GMT, "Phil Weldon"
wrote:

In all probability your system was inadequately ventilated, though it may
also be that your power supply was falsly rated. What was the room ambient
temperature and the temperature of the air leaving the power supply? Did
you check, or did you just rely on what you were told? Power supplies are
rated at a specific temperatures. At higher temperatures they must be
derated. A power supply that is more than adequate at 60 C can be
inadequate at 75 C.

I bought the Antec TruePower supply and I knew that the power supply
fans run at the lowest speed appropriate to load and conditions. I
guess they do not speed up until the power supply gets hot. Not a
good idea if you are into overclocking.

I have enough case fans and a very good cpu heatsink and fan but still
my system gets about 10C hotter than a similar system with an Enermax
power supply and I have been scratching my head about that for a long
time now. I even thought I had faulty case fans because they were not
pushing much air. I finally read the fine print in the power supply
manual and the "special fan only connectors" the power supply provides
also regulate the case fans to the lowest speeds! I just wonder how
the power supply can tell what temperature I want inside my case.

Guess I will be disconnecing those fan only power connectors and using
the regular connectors.

Ak

'Al Kaufmann' wrote, in part:
_____

| I bought the Antec TruePower supply and I knew that the power supply
| fans run at the lowest speed appropriate to load and conditions. I
| guess they do not speed up until the power supply gets hot. Not a
| good idea if you are into overclocking.
_____

Power supply fans that speed up when the power supply gets hot are a fine
idea. The manufacturer will choose fan speeds to keep the Power Supply
operating within specificatios. But ONLY IF the temperature of the air
ENTERING the Power Supply is enough lower than the specified operating
temperature range. It is reasonable to allow the power supply to choose a
speed for other case fans since the power supply heat output will pretty
well track the over all heat output (its all heat in the end - very little
energy is stored a magnetic orientations in magnetic media!) And are the
temperature set points for the fans adjustable?

Cooling a computer system requires adequate interchange of cooling fluid
between the inside of the case and the outside of the case.
The cooling fluid (ambient air) must be sufficiently lower than the desired
operating temperature for reasonably sized heat exchangers and blowers/pumps
to transfer the heat generated.

The thermal resistance between the high thermal density components
(CPU/GPU/chipset/Memory chips) must be sufficiently low.

Air flow WITHIN the system case is important. This is not a trivial
problem. Systems run coolest and quietest when air from outside the case is
directly applied to the CPU heat exchanger, the GPU heat exchanger and the
PSU, then exhausted diredtly outside the case. An additional air stream
should idealy be used to cool hard drives, memory and motherboard (along
with the hotspots - chipsets, DC-DC convertor/regulators, and memory.) You
can either go with a well designed completely solution (manufactured
computer where supposedly the design is reasonably good) or experiment with
fans, flow directions, accessories, baffles and case apertures. The same
equipment arranged differently can make marked temperature differences.
However, starting with a 15 C ambient room temperature trumps all.

Phil Weldon


"Al Kaufmann" wrote in message
...
| On Fri, 07 Oct 2005 23:16:11 GMT, "Phil Weldon"
| wrote:
|
| In all probability your system was inadequately ventilated, though it may
| also be that your power supply was falsly rated. What was the room
ambient
| temperature and the temperature of the air leaving the power supply? Did
| you check, or did you just rely on what you were told? Power supplies
are
| rated at a specific temperatures. At higher temperatures they must be
| derated. A power supply that is more than adequate at 60 C can be
| inadequate at 75 C.
|
| I bought the Antec TruePower supply and I knew that the power supply
| fans run at the lowest speed appropriate to load and conditions. I
| guess they do not speed up until the power supply gets hot. Not a
| good idea if you are into overclocking.
|
| I have enough case fans and a very good cpu heatsink and fan but still
| my system gets about 10C hotter than a similar system with an Enermax
| power supply and I have been scratching my head about that for a long
| time now. I even thought I had faulty case fans because they were not
| pushing much air. I finally read the fine print in the power supply
| manual and the "special fan only connectors" the power supply provides
| also regulate the case fans to the lowest speeds! I just wonder how
| the power supply can tell what temperature I want inside my case.
|
| Guess I will be disconnecing those fan only power connectors and using
| the regular connectors.
|
| Ak
|

On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 05:41:59 GMT, "Phil Weldon"
wrote:

'Al Kaufmann' wrote, in part:
_____

| I bought the Antec TruePower supply and I knew that the power supply
| fans run at the lowest speed appropriate to load and conditions. I
| guess they do not speed up until the power supply gets hot. Not a
| good idea if you are into overclocking.
_____

Power supply fans that speed up when the power supply gets hot are a fine
idea. The manufacturer will choose fan speeds to keep the Power Supply
operating within specificatios. But ONLY IF the temperature of the air
ENTERING the Power Supply is enough lower than the specified operating
temperature range. It is reasonable to allow the power supply to choose a
speed for other case fans since the power supply heat output will pretty
well track the over all heat output (its all heat in the end - very little
energy is stored a magnetic orientations in magnetic media!) And are the
temperature set points for the fans adjustable?

No the case fan speeds are not adjustable as far as I know but the fan
on my cpu heatsink is adjustable and it is set at maximum - very
noisy. The 4 case fans are connected to special fan connectors and
they are pushing very little air.

I found out sometime ago that by taking the side off my case, I can
lower the speed of my cpu fan to minimum and the temperature reported
by Motherboard Monitor drops by about 5~10C. To top thing off I
reason enjoy the reduction in noise.

Cooling a computer system requires adequate interchange of cooling fluid
between the inside of the case and the outside of the case.
The cooling fluid (ambient air) must be sufficiently lower than the desired
operating temperature for reasonably sized heat exchangers and blowers/pumps
to transfer the heat generated.

The thermal resistance between the high thermal density components
(CPU/GPU/chipset/Memory chips) must be sufficiently low.

Air flow WITHIN the system case is important. This is not a trivial
problem. Systems run coolest and quietest when air from outside the case is
directly applied to the CPU heat exchanger, the GPU heat exchanger and the
PSU, then exhausted diredtly outside the case. An additional air stream
should idealy be used to cool hard drives, memory and motherboard (along
with the hotspots - chipsets, DC-DC convertor/regulators, and memory.) You
can either go with a well designed completely solution (manufactured
computer where supposedly the design is reasonably good) or experiment with
fans, flow directions, accessories, baffles and case apertures. The same
equipment arranged differently can make marked temperature differences.
However, starting with a 15 C ambient room temperature trumps all.

My case is well designed Lian-Li PC60u with 2 case fans in front
pulling air in and one at the top and back for exit. I will connect
these fans to the regular connectors and then see what happens to the
temperature inside the case.

Ak

ATX power supplies DO NOT SHUT THEMSELVES DOWN IF TOO MUCH POWER IS DRAWN!
ATX power supplies DO shut down if a dead short develops. ATX power
supplies will begin to overheat if to much power is drawn, but this takes a
relatively long period of time, much longer than the period of time for
drives to spin up. The overload protection fuse is to protect the AC wiring
with in the case and the AC wiring between the case and the building breaker
box. This fuse is a safety feature, not an overload protector. An overload
of several times the rated power is necessary to blow the fuse within a few
minutes.


Phil, power I am using, 375 watts plus 20% adds up to exactly the same as my
PSu is rated, 450 watts. You say this is sufficient, I have enough cooling definitely
as the whole case is internally exposed... the side cover is off. Only Far Cry shuts
the computer down, doesn't matter if anything is drawing too much power, so the
PSu must have some kind of short?

I did find a small capacitor on the floor of the case one time over a year ago. I
examined the whole mobo and the cards, no place could be found where it would
be missing from. Do you think the cap could have lopped out of the PSu through
the fan??? This PSu has a fan on it's bottom face and another on the face that is
the back, where the power switch and cord are located.

--
Giant_Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com

'Al Kaufmann' wrote in part:
| I found out sometime ago that by taking the side off my case, I can
| lower the speed of my cpu fan to minimum and the temperature reported
| by Motherboard Monitor drops by about 5~10C. To top thing off I
| reason enjoy the reduction in noise.
_____

What I've found to be very useful is to arrange for the CPU heatsink fan to
blow down into the heatsink, then cutting a 120mm hole in the Tower case
side and mounting a 120mm fan to blow outside air directly into the
motherboard area that contains the CPU heatskink/fan, DC-DC voltage
convertors/regulators, memory, chipsets, and the back of the display
adapter. Two 80mm fans blow blow out the back. The power supply has two
fans that exhaust through the rear. All air intake is through the front
across the hard drives and removable media drives. With this arrangement
the temperatures go UP when the side is removed.

The cases I like best (if bulky isn't a problem) is a tower that is deeper
than is usual, the EN-8950. This Enlight case is convertible to use either
as a tower or a rack-mount case, and has the dimensions of 25.6" inches high
by 8.6" wide by 19" deep, deep enough for the drives to be nearly a foot
from the motherboard. There are 9 slots with rails for 1 inch hight hard
drives and/or removable media drives that can be removed and isntalled
through the front door. It isn't fancy, but the extra room inside promotes
good air ciruclation and makes component changes easier. It comes with or
without power supplies (including redundant supplies, up to 2 X 600 Watts)
as well as a hot swap module for 5 X 1" height drives. Electrostatic
filters are provided for front intake and rear exhaust. The price is bad, ~
$100 US last time I bought (no power supplies or hotswap module included at
that price.) The one I have up and running at the moment has 5 hard drives,
a floppy, a DVD +R/W, a CD R/W, and a zip drive, leaving one slot free. The
system is a 'Northwood 2.6' GHz @ 3.510 GHz with 640 MBytes RDRAM and the
display adapter varies.

As you experiment with air flow, you might want to invest in a small digital
indoor/outdoor thermometer with a probe. A store like RadioShack will have
one for ~ $15 US.
_____

Phil Weldon

"Al Kaufmann" wrote in message
...
| On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 05:41:59 GMT, "Phil Weldon"
| wrote:
|
| 'Al Kaufmann' wrote, in part:
| _____
|
| | I bought the Antec TruePower supply and I knew that the power supply
| | fans run at the lowest speed appropriate to load and conditions. I
| | guess they do not speed up until the power supply gets hot. Not a
| | good idea if you are into overclocking.
| _____
|
| Power supply fans that speed up when the power supply gets hot are a fine
| idea. The manufacturer will choose fan speeds to keep the Power Supply
| operating within specificatios. But ONLY IF the temperature of the air
| ENTERING the Power Supply is enough lower than the specified operating
| temperature range. It is reasonable to allow the power supply to choose
a
| speed for other case fans since the power supply heat output will pretty
| well track the over all heat output (its all heat in the end - very
little
| energy is stored a magnetic orientations in magnetic media!) And are the
| temperature set points for the fans adjustable?
|
| No the case fan speeds are not adjustable as far as I know but the fan
| on my cpu heatsink is adjustable and it is set at maximum - very
| noisy. The 4 case fans are connected to special fan connectors and
| they are pushing very little air.
|
| I found out sometime ago that by taking the side off my case, I can
| lower the speed of my cpu fan to minimum and the temperature reported
| by Motherboard Monitor drops by about 5~10C. To top thing off I
| reason enjoy the reduction in noise.
|
| Cooling a computer system requires adequate interchange of cooling fluid
| between the inside of the case and the outside of the case.
| The cooling fluid (ambient air) must be sufficiently lower than the
desired
| operating temperature for reasonably sized heat exchangers and
blowers/pumps
| to transfer the heat generated.
|
| The thermal resistance between the high thermal density components
| (CPU/GPU/chipset/Memory chips) must be sufficiently low.
|
| Air flow WITHIN the system case is important. This is not a trivial
| problem. Systems run coolest and quietest when air from outside the case
is
| directly applied to the CPU heat exchanger, the GPU heat exchanger and
the
| PSU, then exhausted diredtly outside the case. An additional air stream
| should idealy be used to cool hard drives, memory and motherboard (along
| with the hotspots - chipsets, DC-DC convertor/regulators, and memory.)
You
| can either go with a well designed completely solution (manufactured
| computer where supposedly the design is reasonably good) or experiment
with
| fans, flow directions, accessories, baffles and case apertures. The same
| equipment arranged differently can make marked temperature differences.
| However, starting with a 15 C ambient room temperature trumps all.
|
| My case is well designed Lian-Li PC60u with 2 case fans in front
| pulling air in and one at the top and back for exit. I will connect
| these fans to the regular connectors and then see what happens to the
| temperature inside the case.
|
| Ak
|
|

'AAvK' wrote, in part:
| Phil, power I am using, 375 watts plus 20% adds up to exactly the same as
my
| PSu is rated, 450 watts.
_____

Looking back over your posts, it sounds like a heat problem, but where? If
the power supply is involved, then poor air circulation is possibly the
culprit, otherwise the power supply might just be poorly built. Certainly
450 Watts is more than sufficient.

One easy diagnostic tool is MotherBoard Monitor 5.
It is a free utility and very well respected, available at
http://www.3degs.net/ .
It will log and display three or more temperature sensors as well as fan
speeds and voltages. Install this utility and log the reports as you
operate your system at various crunching levels. The log should give you an
idea of what's going on. Also use an indoor/outdoor digital thermometer
with a probe to check air temperature inside the case and especially the
temperature of the air leaving the CPU case. Removing the side from the
case may make some areas hotter and some areas cooler. Check the PSU intake
air temperature and output air temperature. It may be that the power supply
is getting air that has already been heated by the rest of the system.
Also, before buying a new power supply, try removing the power supply from
the case, but keep the cables plugged in. This should determine if poor air
circulation is the cause of your reported problem.

You say you found a capacitor in the bottom of the case. There are so many
capacitors on the motherboard it would be hard to determine if one were
completely missing. I think it highly unlikely that a capacitor could have
escaped from the PSU box. A description of the capacitor you found would
help. If it is a tubular electrolytic capacitor, about the size of a 1 inch
length of pencil, with a value of 10,000 microfarads or so and a working
voltage of 20 Volts or so, and it fell off the motherboard or Display
adapter, then it likely is from one of the capcitors in a DC-DC
regulator/convertor, and that is a serious problem that likely will make the
DC voltage it supplies sag under high current draws. If it is smaller, say
a 1/2" length of pencil, with a capacitance of ~ 100 to 1000 microfarads,
and with a working voltage of ~ 7 Volts, then it likely helped eliminated
noise on the power traces on the motherboard or a card. But those are just
guesses.

By the way, I have a system with a 450 Watt power supply
'Northwood' 2.6 GHz @ 3.51 GHz
640 MBytes of RDRAM
5 hard drives
1 DVD +R/W
1 CD R/W
1 SCSI Zip drive
1 3.5" floppy
SCSI PCI card
Sound Blaster Audigy
1 wireless LAN
1 USB2.0 PCI card
1 Television Tuner/Capture card
1 AGP slot with varying contents, usually about a 40 Watt card

Worked fine with a 350 Watt supply, works fine with a 450 Watt supply.
However, I don't play games demand a lot of GPU power. I do run high CPU
usage applications.

Good luck. Please post as you gather more information.

The shortest, easiest path to identifying your problem might be to
#1. remove the case side and place a 20" box fan blowing directly into the
system case and try to recreate the problem
#2. swap in another known good Power Supply and try to recreate the problem
#3. then swap in a known good identical graphics card and try to recreate
the problem
Oil squeaky wheel.

Phil Weldon





"AAvK" wrote in message
news:UOK1f.710$UF4.451@fed1read02...
|
| ATX power supplies DO NOT SHUT THEMSELVES DOWN IF TOO MUCH POWER IS
DRAWN!
| ATX power supplies DO shut down if a dead short develops. ATX power
| supplies will begin to overheat if to much power is drawn, but this
takes a
| relatively long period of time, much longer than the period of time for
| drives to spin up. The overload protection fuse is to protect the AC
wiring
| with in the case and the AC wiring between the case and the building
breaker
| box. This fuse is a safety feature, not an overload protector. An
overload
| of several times the rated power is necessary to blow the fuse within a
few
| minutes.
|
|
| Phil, power I am using, 375 watts plus 20% adds up to exactly the same as
my
| PSu is rated, 450 watts. You say this is sufficient, I have enough cooling
definitely
| as the whole case is internally exposed... the side cover is off. Only Far
Cry shuts
| the computer down, doesn't matter if anything is drawing too much power,
so the
| PSu must have some kind of short?
|
| I did find a small capacitor on the floor of the case one time over a year
ago. I
| examined the whole mobo and the cards, no place could be found where it
would
| be missing from. Do you think the cap could have lopped out of the PSu
through
| the fan??? This PSu has a fan on it's bottom face and another on the face
that is
| the back, where the power switch and cord are located.
|
| --
| Giant_Alex
| cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
|
|

What power supply do you have in this rig? sounds too low end.
McG.


It's an "Avus Premier Performance Pro Gold 450w"...
really a damn good one so far, 'cept fer the damn problem
I've got.

--
Giant_Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com