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Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?



 
 
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  #11  
Old May 19th 09, 12:19 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,sci.electronics.design
Jamie
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Posts: 70
Default Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?

SteveH wrote:
Skybuck Flying wrote:

I learned that once in a chemistry class on school.


You went to school, you do surprise me.
There's me thinking you wuz just a pothead.

-
SteveH


Well, that was your first mistake!
Thinking!


http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

  #12  
Old May 19th 09, 02:17 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,sci.electronics.design
Michael A. Terrell
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Posts: 332
Default Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?


Jamie wrote:

Well, that was your first mistake!
Thinking!



There you go, damning something you've never tried.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense!
  #13  
Old May 19th 09, 02:18 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,sci.electronics.design
Michael A. Terrell
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Posts: 332
Default Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?


GregS wrote:

In article me.nl, "Skybuck Flying" wrote:
Hello,

I have a question for you:

Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the
glue becoming conductive after a while ?

(Some glue's appear to become conductive after exposure to heat, moisture in
air, and electricity (?))

Also it would be a big plus if the glue can be removed with water and soap
or any other means...


I had to fix one or two Sansui amplifier power boards with that conductive
stuff. I have used typical hot melt without problems, but
usually not on a conductor. I also use silicone rtv on most things.
Anything removed with soap and water seems like it would collect
moisture anyway.



If you insist on RTV, make sure its the electronics grade.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense!
  #14  
Old May 19th 09, 03:45 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,sci.electronics.design
VanguardLH[_2_]
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Posts: 1,453
Default Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?

Skybuck Flying wrote:

Hello,

I have a question for you:

Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the
glue becoming conductive after a while ?

(Some glue's appear to become conductive after exposure to heat, moisture in
air, and electricity (?))

Also it would be a big plus if the glue can be removed with water and soap
or any other means...

Bye,
Skybuck.


Hot-melt glue & gun.

Not water soluable (since that would also mean it absorbs water).

Not super strong but you left out that criteria. If you want a
permanent bond, use epoxy; however, you alluded to removal so the bond
cannot be super strong. Hot-glued parts can usually be pried apart
although usually the surface of one or both might get damaged, like
peeling off the label or outerwrap.

To remove, pry the part apart. For what sticks behind, you can pry,
scrape, or use a pliers to pull the remnants off (provided the surfaces
were smooth since erose surfaces will have the glue embedded in them).

I've seen this stuff use for affixing capacitors, wires, resistors
(under 2W so they don't reheat the glue and melt it), speaker cases,
etc. Not useful for really heavy stuff, like a large isolating
transformer, but you didn't mention weight contraints.
  #15  
Old May 19th 09, 04:46 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,sci.electronics.design
Dave[_39_]
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Posts: 15
Default Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?


"Skybuck Flying" wrote in message
b.home.nl...
Hello,

I have a question for you:

Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the
glue becoming conductive after a while ?

(Some glue's appear to become conductive after exposure to heat, moisture
in air, and electricity (?))

Also it would be a big plus if the glue can be removed with water and soap
or any other means...

Bye,
Skybuck.


The industrial adhesive-turned craft glue E-6000 is totally nonconductive,
and can be removed by prying/pulling at the material after it dries. I love
it for this reason. If it is put on in one glop, it comes off the same way.
For electronic components, I expect you would need to work at it some, and
it wouldn't be easy to remove. Takes 24 hours to cure though... Best I can
offer. Get it at the local electronics supply store, or even most WalMart
stores.

Dave


  #16  
Old May 19th 09, 01:48 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,sci.electronics.design
Tim Shoppa
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Posts: 6
Default Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?

On May 18, 3:02*pm, "Skybuck Flying" wrote:
Hello,

I have a question for you:

Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the
glue becoming conductive after a while ?

(Some glue's appear to become conductive after exposure to heat, moisture in
air, and electricity (?))

Also it would be a big plus if the glue can be removed with water and soap
or any other means...


Glues that dissolve in water will also generally absorb water, even
just the humidity in the air.

Water with stuff dissolved in it is in general no longer an insulator.

For lots of not-very-hot hobbyist purposes, hot melt glue is pretty
good. Wax is also a long standing mostly removable material. Both have
had application in "professional" electronics in the past.

Tim.
  #17  
Old May 19th 09, 03:21 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,sci.electronics.design
Jon Danniken[_2_]
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Posts: 153
Default Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?

"Skybuck Flying" wrote:
Hello,

I have a question for you:

Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the
glue becoming conductive after a while ?


Silicone.

Jon


  #18  
Old May 19th 09, 06:23 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,sci.electronics.design
Skybuck Flying[_2_]
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Posts: 1,459
Default Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?


"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
"Skybuck Flying" wrote:
Hello,

I have a question for you:

Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the
glue becoming conductive after a while ?


Silicone.


There seem to be conductive and non-conductive silicone...

Bye,
Skybuck.


  #19  
Old May 19th 09, 09:59 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,sci.electronics.design
Sjouke Burry[_2_]
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Posts: 192
Default Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?

Skybuck Flying wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
"Skybuck Flying" wrote:
Hello,

I have a question for you:

Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the
glue becoming conductive after a while ?

Silicone.


There seem to be conductive and non-conductive silicone...

Bye,
Skybuck.


You have to wait for the silicone to cure before it is of
sufficient quality.
I would leave it alone for a day or three, before applying
power.
  #20  
Old May 20th 09, 08:38 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,sci.electronics.design
nobody >[_2_]
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Posts: 143
Default Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?

Dave wrote:
"Skybuck Flying" wrote in message
b.home.nl...
Hello,

I have a question for you:

Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the
glue becoming conductive after a while ?

(Some glue's appear to become conductive after exposure to heat, moisture
in air, and electricity (?))

Also it would be a big plus if the glue can be removed with water and soap
or any other means...

Bye,
Skybuck.


The industrial adhesive-turned craft glue E-6000 is totally nonconductive,
and can be removed by prying/pulling at the material after it dries. I love
it for this reason. If it is put on in one glop, it comes off the same way.
For electronic components, I expect you would need to work at it some, and
it wouldn't be easy to remove. Takes 24 hours to cure though... Best I can
offer. Get it at the local electronics supply store, or even most WalMart
stores.

Dave



Amen to that brudda!

E6000 is fantastic stuff. It's RTV on steroids.

The name E6000 comes from it's electrical resistance/breakdown voltage.
It's 6000 volts per milli-inch.

It doesn't outgas acetic acid while drying like RTV, so there's no
corrosion issues down the road.

I've mounted two-way radios to truck cab roofs with it that are still in
service after 10+ years, and those are off-roading dump trucks. (I'll
have to admit that the 24 hour drying time is a pain, I had to prop the
radios in place with a telescoping pole overnight.)

I've glued telephone wall plates with thin boxes onto beams and ribs in
steel buildings and hung wall phones on them. If you've ever tried
drilling holes in those beams, you'll know why I even tried this.

I know an electrician who mounted a 36 circuit count 400 amp
main-breakered breaker box on a tiled wall with E6000 to avoid cracking
the tile.

It's actually an industrial version of Shoe Goo, and the parent compamy
is "Goop". It was originally designed for gluing glass or rock (like
marble) veneers to concrete walls. The reason? the glass or veneer has
different temperature expansion rates than concrete, so the adhesive has
to give a fair amount to compensate for that.

I've used it as potting compound. I've used it to make connector bodies
when replacements weren't readily available.

A variant is sold under the name of Plumber's Putty. Smear it on the
threads and mating surfaces of thinks like sink traps or hookups to
garbage disposals. I used E6000 for this before the PP came on the
market. You can still get the joint apart, it just takes more force.
 




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