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#11
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Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?
SteveH wrote:
Skybuck Flying wrote: I learned that once in a chemistry class on school. You went to school, you do surprise me. There's me thinking you wuz just a pothead. - SteveH Well, that was your first mistake! Thinking! http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5" |
#12
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Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?
Jamie wrote: Well, that was your first mistake! Thinking! There you go, damning something you've never tried. -- You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense! |
#13
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Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?
GregS wrote: In article me.nl, "Skybuck Flying" wrote: Hello, I have a question for you: Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the glue becoming conductive after a while ? (Some glue's appear to become conductive after exposure to heat, moisture in air, and electricity (?)) Also it would be a big plus if the glue can be removed with water and soap or any other means... I had to fix one or two Sansui amplifier power boards with that conductive stuff. I have used typical hot melt without problems, but usually not on a conductor. I also use silicone rtv on most things. Anything removed with soap and water seems like it would collect moisture anyway. If you insist on RTV, make sure its the electronics grade. -- You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense! |
#14
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Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?
Skybuck Flying wrote:
Hello, I have a question for you: Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the glue becoming conductive after a while ? (Some glue's appear to become conductive after exposure to heat, moisture in air, and electricity (?)) Also it would be a big plus if the glue can be removed with water and soap or any other means... Bye, Skybuck. Hot-melt glue & gun. Not water soluable (since that would also mean it absorbs water). Not super strong but you left out that criteria. If you want a permanent bond, use epoxy; however, you alluded to removal so the bond cannot be super strong. Hot-glued parts can usually be pried apart although usually the surface of one or both might get damaged, like peeling off the label or outerwrap. To remove, pry the part apart. For what sticks behind, you can pry, scrape, or use a pliers to pull the remnants off (provided the surfaces were smooth since erose surfaces will have the glue embedded in them). I've seen this stuff use for affixing capacitors, wires, resistors (under 2W so they don't reheat the glue and melt it), speaker cases, etc. Not useful for really heavy stuff, like a large isolating transformer, but you didn't mention weight contraints. |
#15
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Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?
"Skybuck Flying" wrote in message b.home.nl... Hello, I have a question for you: Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the glue becoming conductive after a while ? (Some glue's appear to become conductive after exposure to heat, moisture in air, and electricity (?)) Also it would be a big plus if the glue can be removed with water and soap or any other means... Bye, Skybuck. The industrial adhesive-turned craft glue E-6000 is totally nonconductive, and can be removed by prying/pulling at the material after it dries. I love it for this reason. If it is put on in one glop, it comes off the same way. For electronic components, I expect you would need to work at it some, and it wouldn't be easy to remove. Takes 24 hours to cure though... Best I can offer. Get it at the local electronics supply store, or even most WalMart stores. Dave |
#16
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Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?
On May 18, 3:02*pm, "Skybuck Flying" wrote:
Hello, I have a question for you: Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the glue becoming conductive after a while ? (Some glue's appear to become conductive after exposure to heat, moisture in air, and electricity (?)) Also it would be a big plus if the glue can be removed with water and soap or any other means... Glues that dissolve in water will also generally absorb water, even just the humidity in the air. Water with stuff dissolved in it is in general no longer an insulator. For lots of not-very-hot hobbyist purposes, hot melt glue is pretty good. Wax is also a long standing mostly removable material. Both have had application in "professional" electronics in the past. Tim. |
#17
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Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?
"Skybuck Flying" wrote:
Hello, I have a question for you: Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the glue becoming conductive after a while ? Silicone. Jon |
#18
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Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?
"Jon Danniken" wrote in message ... "Skybuck Flying" wrote: Hello, I have a question for you: Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the glue becoming conductive after a while ? Silicone. There seem to be conductive and non-conductive silicone... Bye, Skybuck. |
#19
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Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?
Skybuck Flying wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote in message ... "Skybuck Flying" wrote: Hello, I have a question for you: Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the glue becoming conductive after a while ? Silicone. There seem to be conductive and non-conductive silicone... Bye, Skybuck. You have to wait for the silicone to cure before it is of sufficient quality. I would leave it alone for a day or three, before applying power. |
#20
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Non-conductive-removeable-glue ?
Dave wrote:
"Skybuck Flying" wrote in message b.home.nl... Hello, I have a question for you: Is there a glue that can be used to glue together electronics without the glue becoming conductive after a while ? (Some glue's appear to become conductive after exposure to heat, moisture in air, and electricity (?)) Also it would be a big plus if the glue can be removed with water and soap or any other means... Bye, Skybuck. The industrial adhesive-turned craft glue E-6000 is totally nonconductive, and can be removed by prying/pulling at the material after it dries. I love it for this reason. If it is put on in one glop, it comes off the same way. For electronic components, I expect you would need to work at it some, and it wouldn't be easy to remove. Takes 24 hours to cure though... Best I can offer. Get it at the local electronics supply store, or even most WalMart stores. Dave Amen to that brudda! E6000 is fantastic stuff. It's RTV on steroids. The name E6000 comes from it's electrical resistance/breakdown voltage. It's 6000 volts per milli-inch. It doesn't outgas acetic acid while drying like RTV, so there's no corrosion issues down the road. I've mounted two-way radios to truck cab roofs with it that are still in service after 10+ years, and those are off-roading dump trucks. (I'll have to admit that the 24 hour drying time is a pain, I had to prop the radios in place with a telescoping pole overnight.) I've glued telephone wall plates with thin boxes onto beams and ribs in steel buildings and hung wall phones on them. If you've ever tried drilling holes in those beams, you'll know why I even tried this. I know an electrician who mounted a 36 circuit count 400 amp main-breakered breaker box on a tiled wall with E6000 to avoid cracking the tile. It's actually an industrial version of Shoe Goo, and the parent compamy is "Goop". It was originally designed for gluing glass or rock (like marble) veneers to concrete walls. The reason? the glass or veneer has different temperature expansion rates than concrete, so the adhesive has to give a fair amount to compensate for that. I've used it as potting compound. I've used it to make connector bodies when replacements weren't readily available. A variant is sold under the name of Plumber's Putty. Smear it on the threads and mating surfaces of thinks like sink traps or hookups to garbage disposals. I used E6000 for this before the PP came on the market. You can still get the joint apart, it just takes more force. |
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