BIOS chip or MB (A7N8X Deluxe)

In article , JBC wrote:
Steve wrote:
In article ,
says...
GMAN wrote:
snip
You just need to replace the CR2032 battery that is on the board. They cost

like $2.99 at walmart.

Thanks,

But I don't think so. In my 16 years of building IBM clones, I've never
seen a MB whose BIOS wouldn't save data just because the "Battery
backup" was dead;
snip

In my 26 years of working on PCs and their clones; I have. So you can
swap out the battery with a known good one and prove us wrong, or
have a working motherboard.

Joe

You're a dense prick, my longevity quote was clearly an "I'm not a
sap(newbie)" statement because GMAN's answer was obviously rushed.
While your's is clearly all about competition as with the sarcasm. I
know a man that's been with various women for over 67 years and still
doesn't know how to treat them. Obviously long lived exposure doesn't
necessarily equate with knowledge. Grow up boy and stop using computers
to release your misplaced frustrations.

It wasnt a rushed comment on my part, it was just a try the cheapest route to
see if it helps. The age of your MB screams the fact that you at least need a
new battery anywys. Thats all i was commenting on, it wouldnt cost you much to
try.




Check out Paul's response. He's got class and it has nothing to do with
his knowledge, but rather his attitude. He seems to really want to help
someone, A TRUE Gentleman and Scholar. You sound like a washed up
loser, get a grip. Thanks for nothing!


What?

In article , JBC wrote:
Paul wrote:
JBC wrote:
GMAN wrote:
In article , JBC
wrote:
The other day I switched on my ASUS A7N8X Deluxe Rev 1.04 MB and got
no video signal (yellow LED on monitor) as well as no other activity
or indications. After removing all cards, dusting off CPU heatsink
and MB, reseating DIMM’s and Vid card & swapping Vid card I still
had the same indications. So I decided to remove the RTC/Setup
battery and reset BIOS to defaults. Upon boot I got video and was
able to enter the setup utility but as soon as I “saved any” changes
I got the same indications as mentioned above. So I reset again, and
again got video and was able to enter setup but was unable to “save
any” BIOS settings without it reverting back to the “black screen of
death.” I repeated it several more times to ensure that it was
consistent, and it was.

So my question is: with the indications above, can anyone tell what
the probability is that the problem is the BIOS chip or that it’s
the MB circuitry that supports the BIOS chip. I really don’t want
to spend the money on the chip just to find out it’s the board.

TIA,

Joe
You just need to replace the CR2032 battery that is on the board.
They cost like $2.99 at walmart.

Thanks,

But I don't think so. In my 16 years of building IBM clones, I've
never seen a MB whose BIOS wouldn't save data just because the
"Battery backup" was dead; which is all that battery does. It's there
just in case you loose AC power so you don't loose all your BIOS
settings. A capacitor actually keeps the BIOS settings while you have
AC power. If you loose AC power that battery takes over until such
time that AC power is restored.

Thanks anyway.

Joe

That would depend on whether there was damage to the dual ORing diode
feeding 3V to the Southbridge. If the path from +5VSB/3VSB is burned out,
you'd be dependent on the battery. The diode is sometimes damaged
by using the "clear CMOS" jumper and leaving the power on the
computer running.

As an example, download this document and look at page 18. If diode
D2 is burned, then you're dependent on the CMOS battery and D3, to
save settings. Many motherboards in the past, would short node JP17
to ground, as a way to "clear CMOS", as an example of a way that
diode D2 can be burned if the computer power is left on. On
modern computers, both of those diodes are housed in a three pin
package that looks like a SMT transistor. The burned dual diode can be
burned bad enough, that you can't read the part number off of it,
to order a replacement.

http://www.intel.com/design/chipsets...x/BXDPDG10.htm

There was a serious bug with those motherboards, in that saving settings
could result in the motherboard never posting again.

http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/image-vp32049.html

But your symptoms don't match that bug, as you're able to recover.
My theory is far-fetched, and I don't have any other suggestions as
to why settings could not be saved in the CMOS 256 byte RAM block.
You'd think, in any case, the motherboard would compute the checksum
on the CMOS block (no matter what state it is in), and figure out it
was corrupted, and return everything to default settings again. It
shouldn't really black screen, unless the checksum is correct by accident,
and the BIOS "eats" the bad settings.

If you have a magnifying glass, the dual diode typically has a marking
of "K45" on top, and should be located in the neighborhood of the battery.

Other places to look for a symptom match, would be these forums


http://vip.asus.com/forum/topic.aspx...&SLanguage =e
n-us


or some of the nforcershq.com postings might help. This site has a
glossy new GUI... the downside, is it's harder to find the posts
for the older motherboards.

http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/post562671.html#p562671

Paul

Thanks a lot Paul. I really appreciate the length at which you'll go to
help someone. And unlike some people, you address the problem and not
the symptoms. Very professional in deed (indeed)!

Now I'll take some time and mull over all the resources you've been kind
enough to provide.

Again thanks much. I hope I can someday repay you, or maybe it will
just be enough to pay it forward. ;-)

Have a good one!

If you do try a new battery, will you at least tell us if it helped?

GMAN wrote:
In article , JBC wrote:
Steve wrote:
In article ,
says...
GMAN wrote:
snip
You just need to replace the CR2032 battery that is on the board. They cost
like $2.99 at walmart.

Thanks,

But I don't think so. In my 16 years of building IBM clones, I've never
seen a MB whose BIOS wouldn't save data just because the "Battery
backup" was dead;
snip

In my 26 years of working on PCs and their clones; I have. So you can
swap out the battery with a known good one and prove us wrong, or
have a working motherboard.

Joe
You're a dense prick, my longevity quote was clearly an "I'm not a
sap(newbie)" statement because GMAN's answer was obviously rushed.
While your's is clearly all about competition as with the sarcasm. I
know a man that's been with various women for over 67 years and still
doesn't know how to treat them. Obviously long lived exposure doesn't
necessarily equate with knowledge. Grow up boy and stop using computers
to release your misplaced frustrations.

It wasnt a rushed comment on my part, it was just a try the cheapest route to
see if it helps. The age of your MB screams the fact that you at least need a
new battery anywys. Thats all i was commenting on, it wouldnt cost you much to
try.

Sorry that you misunderstood my brief description of your original
efforts. What I meant was that I know for a fact that it's not supposed
to work that way because of my long lived experience and while it could
be that there was something unusual with this particular board, I've
already changed the battery once before and the indications I've
outlined are not consistent with the previous symptoms. So I know that
your solution is incorrect with respect to "PROPER" operation. I'm not
one of those backyard mechanics that holds things together with bailing
wire and bubble gum. My longest lived job was in aviation and you never
take shortcuts. I find the EXACT cause and do the EXACT fix required.
Nothing else is acceptable! As Paul mentioned, if a diode is fried, a
diode I'll replace. It won't be a problem because I also worked as an
Electronics tech for a short period of time (not on MB's) on Audio
equipment. But a diode is a diode no matter what the package. And my
soldering skills are more than adequate. So in my mind "rushed" is
indicative of not considering a diode. Also the flow of the message
seems somewhat rushed, not well thought out. Nothing personal just my
take, my opinion.


Check out Paul's response. He's got class and it has nothing to do with
his knowledge, but rather his attitude. He seems to really want to help
someone, A TRUE Gentleman and Scholar. You sound like a washed up
loser, get a grip. Thanks for nothing!


What?

Are you new to USENET? that comment, in fact this entire message was
for Steve. Thats how thread hierarchy works. The persons message a
particular message is attached to is a response to that particular
person and no others.

As I previously said, THANKS for your EFFORT! I'm always extremely
appreciative of those that are altruistic in their response. But anyone
thats more concerned with jerking their own chain can go jerk it elsewhere.

GMAN wrote:
In article , JBC wrote:
Paul wrote:
JBC wrote:
GMAN wrote:
In article , JBC
wrote:
The other day I switched on my ASUS A7N8X Deluxe Rev 1.04 MB and got
no video signal (yellow LED on monitor) as well as no other activity
or indications. After removing all cards, dusting off CPU heatsink
and MB, reseating DIMM’s and Vid card & swapping Vid card I still
had the same indications. So I decided to remove the RTC/Setup
battery and reset BIOS to defaults. Upon boot I got video and was
able to enter the setup utility but as soon as I “saved any” changes
I got the same indications as mentioned above. So I reset again, and
again got video and was able to enter setup but was unable to “save
any” BIOS settings without it reverting back to the “black screen of
death.” I repeated it several more times to ensure that it was
consistent, and it was.

So my question is: with the indications above, can anyone tell what
the probability is that the problem is the BIOS chip or that it’s
the MB circuitry that supports the BIOS chip. I really don’t want
to spend the money on the chip just to find out it’s the board.

TIA,

Joe
You just need to replace the CR2032 battery that is on the board.
They cost like $2.99 at walmart.

Thanks,

But I don't think so. In my 16 years of building IBM clones, I've
never seen a MB whose BIOS wouldn't save data just because the
"Battery backup" was dead; which is all that battery does. It's there
just in case you loose AC power so you don't loose all your BIOS
settings. A capacitor actually keeps the BIOS settings while you have
AC power. If you loose AC power that battery takes over until such
time that AC power is restored.

Thanks anyway.

Joe
That would depend on whether there was damage to the dual ORing diode
feeding 3V to the Southbridge. If the path from +5VSB/3VSB is burned out,
you'd be dependent on the battery. The diode is sometimes damaged
by using the "clear CMOS" jumper and leaving the power on the
computer running.

As an example, download this document and look at page 18. If diode
D2 is burned, then you're dependent on the CMOS battery and D3, to
save settings. Many motherboards in the past, would short node JP17
to ground, as a way to "clear CMOS", as an example of a way that
diode D2 can be burned if the computer power is left on. On
modern computers, both of those diodes are housed in a three pin
package that looks like a SMT transistor. The burned dual diode can be
burned bad enough, that you can't read the part number off of it,
to order a replacement.

http://www.intel.com/design/chipsets...x/BXDPDG10.htm

There was a serious bug with those motherboards, in that saving settings
could result in the motherboard never posting again.

http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/image-vp32049.html

But your symptoms don't match that bug, as you're able to recover.
My theory is far-fetched, and I don't have any other suggestions as
to why settings could not be saved in the CMOS 256 byte RAM block.
You'd think, in any case, the motherboard would compute the checksum
on the CMOS block (no matter what state it is in), and figure out it
was corrupted, and return everything to default settings again. It
shouldn't really black screen, unless the checksum is correct by accident,
and the BIOS "eats" the bad settings.

If you have a magnifying glass, the dual diode typically has a marking
of "K45" on top, and should be located in the neighborhood of the battery.

Other places to look for a symptom match, would be these forums


http://vip.asus.com/forum/topic.aspx...&SLanguage =e
n-us

or some of the nforcershq.com postings might help. This site has a
glossy new GUI... the downside, is it's harder to find the posts
for the older motherboards.

http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/post562671.html#p562671

Paul
Thanks a lot Paul. I really appreciate the length at which you'll go to
help someone. And unlike some people, you address the problem and not
the symptoms. Very professional in deed (indeed)!

Now I'll take some time and mull over all the resources you've been kind
enough to provide.

Again thanks much. I hope I can someday repay you, or maybe it will
just be enough to pay it forward. ;-)

Have a good one!

If you do try a new battery, will you at least tell us if it helped?

Sure, if you need it.

In article , JBC wrote:
GMAN wrote:
In article , JBC
wrote:
Paul wrote:
JBC wrote:
GMAN wrote:
In article , JBC
wrote:
The other day I switched on my ASUS A7N8X Deluxe Rev 1.04 MB and got
no video signal (yellow LED on monitor) as well as no other activity
or indications. After removing all cards, dusting off CPU heatsink
and MB, reseating DIMM’s and Vid card & swapping Vid card I still
had the same indications. So I decided to remove the RTC/Setup
battery and reset BIOS to defaults. Upon boot I got video and was
able to enter the setup utility but as soon as I “saved any” changes
I got the same indications as mentioned above. So I reset again, and
again got video and was able to enter setup but was unable to “save
any” BIOS settings without it reverting back to the “black screen of
death.” I repeated it several more times to ensure that it was
consistent, and it was.

So my question is: with the indications above, can anyone tell what
the probability is that the problem is the BIOS chip or that it’s
the MB circuitry that supports the BIOS chip. I really don’t want
to spend the money on the chip just to find out it’s the board.

TIA,

Joe
You just need to replace the CR2032 battery that is on the board.
They cost like $2.99 at walmart.

Thanks,

But I don't think so. In my 16 years of building IBM clones, I've
never seen a MB whose BIOS wouldn't save data just because the
"Battery backup" was dead; which is all that battery does. It's there
just in case you loose AC power so you don't loose all your BIOS
settings. A capacitor actually keeps the BIOS settings while you have
AC power. If you loose AC power that battery takes over until such
time that AC power is restored.

Thanks anyway.

Joe
That would depend on whether there was damage to the dual ORing diode
feeding 3V to the Southbridge. If the path from +5VSB/3VSB is burned out,
you'd be dependent on the battery. The diode is sometimes damaged
by using the "clear CMOS" jumper and leaving the power on the
computer running.

As an example, download this document and look at page 18. If diode
D2 is burned, then you're dependent on the CMOS battery and D3, to
save settings. Many motherboards in the past, would short node JP17
to ground, as a way to "clear CMOS", as an example of a way that
diode D2 can be burned if the computer power is left on. On
modern computers, both of those diodes are housed in a three pin
package that looks like a SMT transistor. The burned dual diode can be
burned bad enough, that you can't read the part number off of it,
to order a replacement.

http://www.intel.com/design/chipsets...x/BXDPDG10.htm

There was a serious bug with those motherboards, in that saving settings
could result in the motherboard never posting again.

http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/image-vp32049.html

But your symptoms don't match that bug, as you're able to recover.
My theory is far-fetched, and I don't have any other suggestions as
to why settings could not be saved in the CMOS 256 byte RAM block.
You'd think, in any case, the motherboard would compute the checksum
on the CMOS block (no matter what state it is in), and figure out it
was corrupted, and return everything to default settings again. It
shouldn't really black screen, unless the checksum is correct by accident,
and the BIOS "eats" the bad settings.

If you have a magnifying glass, the dual diode typically has a marking
of "K45" on top, and should be located in the neighborhood of the battery.

Other places to look for a symptom match, would be these forums



http://vip.asus.com/forum/topic.aspx...&SLanguage =e
n-us

or some of the nforcershq.com postings might help. This site has a
glossy new GUI... the downside, is it's harder to find the posts
for the older motherboards.

http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/post562671.html#p562671

Paul
Thanks a lot Paul. I really appreciate the length at which you'll go to
help someone. And unlike some people, you address the problem and not
the symptoms. Very professional in deed (indeed)!

Now I'll take some time and mull over all the resources you've been kind
enough to provide.

Again thanks much. I hope I can someday repay you, or maybe it will
just be enough to pay it forward. ;-)

Have a good one!

If you do try a new battery, will you at least tell us if it helped?

Sure, if you need it.


No "I" dont need it or my ego stroked. As you said to me, areyou new to
usenet??? It helps others that may have a similar problem to have the
solution that you find reported here so that others in their search can be
helped. With your arrogant attitude you have showed to me when all i cared
about was helping out, you can do whatever you want. I dont care anymore.

In article ,
says...

Steve wrote:
In article ,
says...
GMAN wrote:
snip
You just need to replace the CR2032 battery that is on the board. They cost
like $2.99 at walmart.

Thanks,

But I don't think so. In my 16 years of building IBM clones, I've never
seen a MB whose BIOS wouldn't save data just because the "Battery
backup" was dead;
snip

In my 26 years of working on PCs and their clones; I have. So you can
swap out the battery with a known good one and prove us wrong, or
have a working motherboard.

Joe

You're a dense prick,

And you're an arrogant dumb **** to stupid to learn from his betters
unless treated like a prissy little girl.

Enjoy your brick.


my longevity quote was clearly an "I'm not a
sap(newbie)" statement because GMAN's answer was obviously rushed.
While your's is clearly all about competition as with the sarcasm. I
know a man that's been with various women for over 67 years and still
doesn't know how to treat them. Obviously long lived exposure doesn't
necessarily equate with knowledge. Grow up boy and stop using computers
to release your misplaced frustrations.

Feel better venting your armchair psychobabble?


Check out Paul's response. He's got class and it has nothing to do with
his knowledge, but rather his attitude. He seems to really want to help
someone, A TRUE Gentleman and Scholar.

Sounds like you want to have Paul's children.

You sound like a washed up
loser, get a grip.

Well, you don't see here me asking questions about simple fixes, like
yourself. Your sixteen years putting together PCs musta been as an
apprentice on an assembly line.

Thanks for nothing!

Got what you paid for, didn't you, Einstein?






s

"JBC" wrote in message
...
John Carter wrote:
JBC wrote in
:
GMAN wrote:
In article , JBC
wrote:
The other day I switched on my ASUS A7N8X Deluxe Rev 1.04 MB and
got no video signal (yellow LED on monitor) as well as no other
activity or indications. After removing all cards, dusting off
CPU heatsink and MB, reseating DIMM’s and Vid card & swapping
Vid card I still had the same indications. So I decided to
remove the RTC/Setup battery and reset BIOS to defaults. Upon
boot I got video and was able to enter the setup utility but as
soon as I “saved any” changes I got the same indications as
mentioned above. So I reset again, and again got video and was
able to enter setup but was unable to “save any” BIOS settings
without it reverting back to the “black screen of death.” I
repeated it several more times to ensure that it was consistent,
and it was.
So my question is: with the indications above, can anyone tell
what the probability is that the problem is the BIOS chip or
that it’s the MB circuitry that supports the BIOS chip. I
really don’t want to spend the money on the chip just to find
out it’s the board.
TIA,

Joe
You just need to replace the CR2032 battery that is on the board.
They cost like $2.99 at walmart.

Thanks,

But I don't think so. In my 16 years of building IBM clones, I've
never seen a MB whose BIOS wouldn't save data just because the
"Battery backup" was dead; which is all that battery does. It's
there just in case you loose AC power so you don't loose all your
BIOS settings. A capacitor actually keeps the BIOS settings while
you have AC power. If you loose AC power that battery takes over
until such time that AC power is restored.

Thanks anyway.

Joe

Joe, I have the Rev 2.xx version, and I had a similar problem, just
slightly different, and replacement of the battery did the trick.

Give it a try.

Stranger things have happened, it's just another "funny" that can only be
explained at significant cost and effort, much greater than the $2.99
cost of the battery. Chill.

How did you know I had a can of chill? Do you mean the CMOS EPROM or one
of the diodes Paul referred to?

I find it hard to believe that your kind can be so presumptuous. I have
not sought your council on interpersonal relationships, but rather
batteries, MB's and EPROM's. A wise man such as Paul knows that you get
what you give. That Psychology dictates that I'm a mirror, what you see is
merely you only clearer. Or in other words what you see in others is a
mere reflection of yourself, after all, you is all you truly know and
that's not certain. So I'll give you the same unsolicited deluded
condescension that you gave, CHILL!

How condescending. So, you tested the battery while in circuit and it was
fine. Tell folk that and they won't waste their time trying to answer
questions when not enough information has been supplied. Paul is likely
correct, if the battery volttge is fine. You (or someone else) likely
shorted
the CMOS reset jumper without reading the manual.
--
Rob

Steve wrote:
In article ,
says...
Steve wrote:
In article ,
says...
GMAN wrote:
snip
You just need to replace the CR2032 battery that is on the board. They cost
like $2.99 at walmart.

Thanks,

But I don't think so. In my 16 years of building IBM clones, I've never
seen a MB whose BIOS wouldn't save data just because the "Battery
backup" was dead;
snip

In my 26 years of working on PCs and their clones; I have. So you can
swap out the battery with a known good one and prove us wrong, or
have a working motherboard.

Joe
You're a dense prick,

And you're an arrogant dumb **** to stupid to learn from his betters
unless treated like a prissy little girl.

Enjoy your brick.


my longevity quote was clearly an "I'm not a
sap(newbie)" statement because GMAN's answer was obviously rushed.
While your's is clearly all about competition as with the sarcasm. I
know a man that's been with various women for over 67 years and still
doesn't know how to treat them. Obviously long lived exposure doesn't
necessarily equate with knowledge. Grow up boy and stop using computers
to release your misplaced frustrations.

Feel better venting your armchair psychobabble?

Check out Paul's response. He's got class and it has nothing to do with
his knowledge, but rather his attitude. He seems to really want to help
someone, A TRUE Gentleman and Scholar.

Sounds like you want to have Paul's children.

You sound like a washed up
loser, get a grip.

Well, you don't see here me asking questions about simple fixes, like
yourself. Your sixteen years putting together PCs musta been as an
apprentice on an assembly line.

Thanks for nothing!

Got what you paid for, didn't you, Einstein?






s
Like I said "PRICK" but lets add "cowardly" to the list. And you can
take your egoistic self stroking id and stick it up your ass. To my
face from the very beginning all you'd have said was Yes Sir! And that I
guarantee!

As far as Paul is concerned: "credit where credit is due," And he
****ing deserves it, dip ****. What? Does it hurt your little ****wit
ego that he's twice a knowledgeable as your dumb ass. His solution was
thorough, yours was auto-erotica, quit sucking yourself. Dude is your
head always so far up your ass or what?

**** off and die, self sucker!

Rob wrote:
"JBC" wrote in message
...
John Carter wrote:
JBC wrote in
:
GMAN wrote:
In article , JBC
wrote:
The other day I switched on my ASUS A7N8X Deluxe Rev 1.04 MB and
got no video signal (yellow LED on monitor) as well as no other
activity or indications. After removing all cards, dusting off
CPU heatsink and MB, reseating DIMM’s and Vid card & swapping
Vid card I still had the same indications. So I decided to
remove the RTC/Setup battery and reset BIOS to defaults. Upon
boot I got video and was able to enter the setup utility but as
soon as I “saved any” changes I got the same indications as
mentioned above. So I reset again, and again got video and was
able to enter setup but was unable to “save any” BIOS settings
without it reverting back to the “black screen of death.” I
repeated it several more times to ensure that it was consistent,
and it was.
So my question is: with the indications above, can anyone tell
what the probability is that the problem is the BIOS chip or
that it’s the MB circuitry that supports the BIOS chip. I
really don’t want to spend the money on the chip just to find
out it’s the board.
TIA,

Joe
You just need to replace the CR2032 battery that is on the board.
They cost like $2.99 at walmart.

Thanks,

But I don't think so. In my 16 years of building IBM clones, I've
never seen a MB whose BIOS wouldn't save data just because the
"Battery backup" was dead; which is all that battery does. It's
there just in case you loose AC power so you don't loose all your
BIOS settings. A capacitor actually keeps the BIOS settings while
you have AC power. If you loose AC power that battery takes over
until such time that AC power is restored.

Thanks anyway.

Joe
Joe, I have the Rev 2.xx version, and I had a similar problem, just
slightly different, and replacement of the battery did the trick.

Give it a try.

Stranger things have happened, it's just another "funny" that can only be
explained at significant cost and effort, much greater than the $2.99
cost of the battery. Chill.
How did you know I had a can of chill? Do you mean the CMOS EPROM or one
of the diodes Paul referred to?

I find it hard to believe that your kind can be so presumptuous. I have
not sought your council on interpersonal relationships, but rather
batteries, MB's and EPROM's. A wise man such as Paul knows that you get
what you give. That Psychology dictates that I'm a mirror, what you see is
merely you only clearer. Or in other words what you see in others is a
mere reflection of yourself, after all, you is all you truly know and
that's not certain. So I'll give you the same unsolicited deluded
condescension that you gave, CHILL!

How condescending. So, you tested the battery while in circuit and it was
fine. Tell folk that and they won't waste their time trying to answer
questions when not enough information has been supplied. Paul is likely
correct, if the battery volttge is fine. You (or someone else) likely
shorted
the CMOS reset jumper without reading the manual.
Rob,

How idiotic. (just repaying you) Did you read the original message? So
as well as a fiction writer do you also talk to yourself? Seriously
dude, I don't know what in the **** you're talking about. I'm the
original owner, no ones touched the MB but me, and it's never been
mishandled. As to assume that their is only one way a circuit can die.
Dude let me educate you, on average Caps are usually the first thing
to die in any circuit from just plain old age, from doing what the were
intended to do.

You guys are ****ing newbies, backyard computer fixers. I bet you call
SIMM's and DIMM's "memory sticks." You can take the ****ing BACKUP
BATTERY out and throw it in the trash (well actually all lithium
batteries should be recycled) and the BIOS and the motherboard will work
FINE, just don't unplug the PS from an AC source of you'll find yourself
resetting all the BIOS settings. ITS A ****ING BATTERY BACKUP FOR YOUR
BIOS SETTINGS AND THE RTC for god sake. It only comes into play if you
loose power. Now like Paul has outlined if in fact the circuitry
supporting the sensing/switching of power sources fails then the problem
is the circuitry, the possibility that a dead battery can cause such an
indication is only a SYMPTOM of the REAL problem. Some people are just
clueless.

In article ,
says...
snip

Like I said "PRICK" but lets add "cowardly" to the list. And you can
take your egoistic self stroking id and stick it up your ass. To my
face from the very beginning all you'd have said was Yes Sir! And that I
guarantee!

Nice keyboard flex. I bet all your butt boys quiver when you growl.


As far as Paul is concerned: "credit where credit is due," And he
****ing deserves it, dip ****. What? Does it hurt your little ****wit
ego that he's twice a knowledgeable as your dumb ass. His solution was
thorough, yours was auto-erotica, quit sucking yourself. Dude is your
head always so far up your ass or what?

**** off and die, self sucker!

You're well versed in self stroking. On the job training no doubt.
Is it the tertiary syphilis that you picked up as the towel boy for
the Bangkok Glee Club that makes you so anti-social?

Paul should demand a blood test before having anything more to do
with you. There's no telling what pus dripping diseases you're
carrying.

Dance squirrel, dance.






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