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#1
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Dis-assemble Pixma 4000
I need to clean my ink pad. Could someone give me some tips on how
to pull my pixma 4000 to pieces; such as where to start? Laurence |
#2
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Dis-assemble Pixma 4000
Here is a great tip since I own a Canon IP4000. Do not waste your time
if your time as any value. Just go buy a new IP4300 for around $80.00. That is only about $10.00 more than a set of ink carts and you have a brand new machine under warranty. The ink may have better longevity also. The only down side is the ink costs around $2.00 more per carts to pay for that unneeded chip that Canon is using to protect their printer against the evil relabelers. Laurence wrote: I need to clean my ink pad. Could someone give me some tips on how to pull my pixma 4000 to pieces; such as where to start? Laurence |
#3
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Dis-assemble Pixma 4000
Great tip if you don't mind throwing away money, otherwise it's
absolute garbage. Listening to measekite constantly rant about using only OEM cartridges makes one think that he must profit by selling OEM print cartridges. Otherwise, why would he suggest that you dump the fantastic IP4000, which can use all kinds of cheap, non-OEM cartridges, for the IP4300, which can only use the ridiculously expensive chipped Canon cartridges? Nonsense. It's no doubt why Canon is practically giving their new hardware away, while still new, but discontinued IP4000's and 5000's are going for US$150 to $200 on eBay. OEM cartridges... what a racket... Vendors keep cranking out new models with proprietary cartridges... kinda like razors and razor blades. The only use for OEM Canon cartridges I have is to print long-lasting photos for archival purposes. Otherwise, for plain paper printing, any old non-OEM cartridge will do. Photo printing is trial and error, but if you find a good compatible cartridge vendor, or if you refill, a good quality ink (check out www.precisioncolors.com), the prints will last a decent time. Besides, if you're like me, you'll always keep the source file, so you can always reprint them... cheaply. Read, and reread again, all of the following before starting. Typical disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage to you or your property in any way by following these instructions. Proceed at your own risk. To prepare the IP4000 for disassembly: - power on the printer, open the front door, and open the top lid, centering the printhead carrier. - unplug the printer, leaving the carrier centered. - remove the power cord. - remove and seal your print cartridges. Use vinyl electrical tape to seal both the bottom circular outlet, and the top vent. Bag them in an airtight baggie, preferably storing them in the upright position. - remove and bag the printhead in an airtight baggie as well. To disassemble the IP4000: 1. Leave the front door and top lid open 2. Remove both side panels as follows: - the side grey trim wraps around the top rear of the printer. Where it ends, slide it up to unclip it from the printer. If you open the top paper feed door, you can see a slot with an arrow below the grey trim. It doesn't really snap up, but slides sideways. Just get this end unclipped first. - now, under the top lid, you'll see a two slots with an arrow, one on each side. In the slot, you'll see grey-coloured plastic. This is a tab holding the side panel to the frame. Using a screwdriver, insert it in the slot and depress the grey plastic tab while gently tilting the top of side panel away from printer. - once you have both the rear trim piece and top tab unfastened, all you need to do is unhook the lugs at the bottom of the silver trim of the side panel, one in the center, and one at the front. Pull up gently on the side panel to disengage these lugs. Place the side panel aside. - repeat for the other side panel. 3. Remove the top half of the case as follows: - there are four clips that fasten the top half of the case, two lugs at the back and two clips at the front. You must disengage the front clips first. The front clips are located on each side of the paper exit slot, below the inner door, behind the front fascia. You can't see the clips, but you will see two spots at the bottom of the front fascia where the plastic is 'scalloped' to clear the paper exit slot. Place your thumbs in these scallops, as close to the bottom as you can, wrapping your hand around the edge of the case. Gently pull the front plastic by your thumbs away from the printer, and lift up on the case. It should disengage, but do not lift it up yet. Just get it unclipped (note: the control panel is not part of the top case half, and will remain with the bottom half). - at this point, it's time to disengage the lugs at the back of the printer. Using a screwdriver, depress the lugs behind the slots on each side of the rear door, and lift the rear of the case. Just get it disengaged. - once all four clips have been disengaged, lift the top half of the case straight up. Note that the control panel is attached to the bottom half of the case, and will not come off with the top half of the case. Place the top half of the case aside. 4. Now, take a look at your printer from the top. There are a couple items you should be aware of, and be careful not to damage. There is a clear film disk on the left side of the printer which is used to control the platen roller. It has very fine markings on it, which are read by an optical sensor. Do not touch it. Ditto for a clear film strip that runs across the printer behind the printhead carrier, which is used to control the carrier. Don't touch this one either. To proceed. you should be able to see four (4) silver Philips screws, one roughly in each corner, that fasten the printer frame to the bottom half of the case. The front two and the right rear one are easy to locate and get at, but the left rear screw is located between the power supply and the frame, and is difficult to reach. To make it easier, remove the power supply as follows: - unplug the wire harness at the top of the power supply. - place the printer on it's back side, exposing the bottom of the printer. - on the bottom of the printer, locate the two clips holding the power supply in place. - depress these two clips and slide out the power supply from the bottom of the printer. - place the printer back in an upright position. 5. Now it's time to remove the printer frame from the bottom case: - remove the four Philips screws securing the frame to the bottom case. - being careful not to touch the film disk on the left of the printer, and the film strip across the printer behind the printhead carrier, use both hands to lift the printer frame from the bottom case by the metal bar across the top of the printer. Place it on a wad of newspaper, as the bottom of the printer frame may be full of ink. This will expose the bottom of the case, where you'll find the ink absorber pads. There are many pads, as shown in this replacement ink absorber kit (Canon part QY5-0144-000) available online. Just Google the part number. Write down their appearance and position, because trust me, you won't remember their exact position when you go to put them all back in after cleaning. It's important, because their position controls the flow of waste ink. I recommend you wear latex gloves or similar, because the ink is indelible. There are also other ink pads in the printer mechanism you might want to look into cleaning or replacing. Get a Canon service manual, and the parts catalogue for all the part numbers. You'll need the service manual to reset the ink absorber count anyways. See www.2manuals.com for example, you can download both for $10. To reassemble your printer, just reverse these instructions. I'd also recommend cleaning the printhead before replacing it in your printer. There are plenty of methods available online, but the method I prefer is using isopropyl alcohol (NOT rubbing alcohol which looks similar). Good Luck! Bullitt measekite wrote: Here is a great tip since I own a Canon IP4000. Do not waste your time if your time as any value. Just go buy a new IP4300 for around $80.00. That is only about $10.00 more than a set of ink carts and you have a brand new machine under warranty. The ink may have better longevity also. The only down side is the ink costs around $2.00 more per carts to pay for that unneeded chip that Canon is using to protect their printer against the evil relabelers. Laurence wrote: I need to clean my ink pad. Could someone give me some tips on how to pull my pixma 4000 to pieces; such as where to start? Laurence |
#4
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Dis-assemble Pixma 4000
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#5
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Dis-assemble Pixma 4000
Much appreciated! Thank you.
Laurence wrote in message oups.com... Great tip if you don't mind throwing away money, otherwise it's absolute garbage. Listening to measekite constantly rant about using only OEM cartridges makes one think that he must profit by selling OEM print cartridges. Otherwise, why would he suggest that you dump the fantastic IP4000, which can use all kinds of cheap, non-OEM cartridges, for the IP4300, which can only use the ridiculously expensive chipped Canon cartridges? Nonsense. It's no doubt why Canon is practically giving their new hardware away, while still new, but discontinued IP4000's and 5000's are going for US$150 to $200 on eBay. OEM cartridges... what a racket... Vendors keep cranking out new models with proprietary cartridges... kinda like razors and razor blades. The only use for OEM Canon cartridges I have is to print long-lasting photos for archival purposes. Otherwise, for plain paper printing, any old non-OEM cartridge will do. Photo printing is trial and error, but if you find a good compatible cartridge vendor, or if you refill, a good quality ink (check out www.precisioncolors.com), the prints will last a decent time. Besides, if you're like me, you'll always keep the source file, so you can always reprint them... cheaply. Read, and reread again, all of the following before starting. Typical disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage to you or your property in any way by following these instructions. Proceed at your own risk. To prepare the IP4000 for disassembly: - power on the printer, open the front door, and open the top lid, centering the printhead carrier. - unplug the printer, leaving the carrier centered. - remove the power cord. - remove and seal your print cartridges. Use vinyl electrical tape to seal both the bottom circular outlet, and the top vent. Bag them in an airtight baggie, preferably storing them in the upright position. - remove and bag the printhead in an airtight baggie as well. To disassemble the IP4000: 1. Leave the front door and top lid open 2. Remove both side panels as follows: - the side grey trim wraps around the top rear of the printer. Where it ends, slide it up to unclip it from the printer. If you open the top paper feed door, you can see a slot with an arrow below the grey trim. It doesn't really snap up, but slides sideways. Just get this end unclipped first. - now, under the top lid, you'll see a two slots with an arrow, one on each side. In the slot, you'll see grey-coloured plastic. This is a tab holding the side panel to the frame. Using a screwdriver, insert it in the slot and depress the grey plastic tab while gently tilting the top of side panel away from printer. - once you have both the rear trim piece and top tab unfastened, all you need to do is unhook the lugs at the bottom of the silver trim of the side panel, one in the center, and one at the front. Pull up gently on the side panel to disengage these lugs. Place the side panel aside. - repeat for the other side panel. 3. Remove the top half of the case as follows: - there are four clips that fasten the top half of the case, two lugs at the back and two clips at the front. You must disengage the front clips first. The front clips are located on each side of the paper exit slot, below the inner door, behind the front fascia. You can't see the clips, but you will see two spots at the bottom of the front fascia where the plastic is 'scalloped' to clear the paper exit slot. Place your thumbs in these scallops, as close to the bottom as you can, wrapping your hand around the edge of the case. Gently pull the front plastic by your thumbs away from the printer, and lift up on the case. It should disengage, but do not lift it up yet. Just get it unclipped (note: the control panel is not part of the top case half, and will remain with the bottom half). - at this point, it's time to disengage the lugs at the back of the printer. Using a screwdriver, depress the lugs behind the slots on each side of the rear door, and lift the rear of the case. Just get it disengaged. - once all four clips have been disengaged, lift the top half of the case straight up. Note that the control panel is attached to the bottom half of the case, and will not come off with the top half of the case. Place the top half of the case aside. 4. Now, take a look at your printer from the top. There are a couple items you should be aware of, and be careful not to damage. There is a clear film disk on the left side of the printer which is used to control the platen roller. It has very fine markings on it, which are read by an optical sensor. Do not touch it. Ditto for a clear film strip that runs across the printer behind the printhead carrier, which is used to control the carrier. Don't touch this one either. To proceed. you should be able to see four (4) silver Philips screws, one roughly in each corner, that fasten the printer frame to the bottom half of the case. The front two and the right rear one are easy to locate and get at, but the left rear screw is located between the power supply and the frame, and is difficult to reach. To make it easier, remove the power supply as follows: - unplug the wire harness at the top of the power supply. - place the printer on it's back side, exposing the bottom of the printer. - on the bottom of the printer, locate the two clips holding the power supply in place. - depress these two clips and slide out the power supply from the bottom of the printer. - place the printer back in an upright position. 5. Now it's time to remove the printer frame from the bottom case: - remove the four Philips screws securing the frame to the bottom case. - being careful not to touch the film disk on the left of the printer, and the film strip across the printer behind the printhead carrier, use both hands to lift the printer frame from the bottom case by the metal bar across the top of the printer. Place it on a wad of newspaper, as the bottom of the printer frame may be full of ink. This will expose the bottom of the case, where you'll find the ink absorber pads. There are many pads, as shown in this replacement ink absorber kit (Canon part QY5-0144-000) available online. Just Google the part number. Write down their appearance and position, because trust me, you won't remember their exact position when you go to put them all back in after cleaning. It's important, because their position controls the flow of waste ink. I recommend you wear latex gloves or similar, because the ink is indelible. There are also other ink pads in the printer mechanism you might want to look into cleaning or replacing. Get a Canon service manual, and the parts catalogue for all the part numbers. You'll need the service manual to reset the ink absorber count anyways. See www.2manuals.com for example, you can download both for $10. To reassemble your printer, just reverse these instructions. I'd also recommend cleaning the printhead before replacing it in your printer. There are plenty of methods available online, but the method I prefer is using isopropyl alcohol (NOT rubbing alcohol which looks similar). Good Luck! Bullitt measekite wrote: Here is a great tip since I own a Canon IP4000. Do not waste your time if your time as any value. Just go buy a new IP4300 for around $80.00. That is only about $10.00 more than a set of ink carts and you have a brand new machine under warranty. The ink may have better longevity also. The only down side is the ink costs around $2.00 more per carts to pay for that unneeded chip that Canon is using to protect their printer against the evil relabelers. Laurence wrote: I need to clean my ink pad. Could someone give me some tips on how to pull my pixma 4000 to pieces; such as where to start? Laurence |
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