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Want to disassemble Toshiba Satellite L305 5919
I was given this dead Toshiba Satellite L305 5919 laptop. I was told
the prior owner probably ruined the mobo by trying to short out the pins to bypass what he figured was the BIOS password. The screen lit up just fine before he did that, but would not boot up because it said it required a password before it would do anything. He read some helps on Google which suggested he short out two pins on the exposed mobo behind the memory modules. He said when he did that, neither the screen nor the power up indicator leds would light up any more. Clearly he must have hit the wrong pins. I thought I might try to dismantle the laptop and replace its mobo, figuring he shorted it out. But I have not done this before. So, I tried to find a guide via Google to do this, but cannot find anything except this one video that lacks any audio: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y5ljZlblzs If I can't find a guide to take this thing apart, I think I should pass. But I thought I would ask if anyone knows of a guide - preferably video. Or perhaps you guys will tell me i shud just forget it. Thank You Peter |
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Want to disassemble Toshiba Satellite L305 5919
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Want to disassemble Toshiba Satellite L305 5919
On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 15:40:29 -0500, VanguardLH wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tv2GP6Yau1E (with audio and verbal instructions) I missed that. Thanks Peter |
#5
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Want to disassemble Toshiba Satellite L305 5919
wrote:
I was given this dead Toshiba Satellite L305 5919 laptop. I was told the prior owner probably ruined the mobo by trying to short out the pins to bypass what he figured was the BIOS password. The screen lit up just fine before he did that, but would not boot up because it said it required a password before it would do anything. He read some helps on Google which suggested he short out two pins on the exposed mobo behind the memory modules. He said when he did that, neither the screen nor the power up indicator leds would light up any more. Clearly he must have hit the wrong pins. I thought I might try to dismantle the laptop and replace its mobo, figuring he shorted it out. But I have not done this before. So, I tried to find a guide via Google to do this, but cannot find anything except this one video that lacks any audio: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y5ljZlblzs If I can't find a guide to take this thing apart, I think I should pass. But I thought I would ask if anyone knows of a guide - preferably video. Or perhaps you guys will tell me i shud just forget it. Thank You Peter A safer way to reset a legacy BIOS storage, would be to pull the Main battery pack, as well as removing the CMOS coin cell. It's a "thing" wrapped in a shrink wrap tube, with a twisted pair wire that plugs into two pins on the motherboard. With no CMOS power, the password should reset. Just leave the unit sitting over night, for residual power to drain. No need to short pins, if there is no legend in white letter next to a pin header claiming it's a CLRCMOS or similar. Business laptops use a 2KB EEPROM to store the password, and the manufacturer Tech Support will tell you to "send it back to the factory to be reset". Those do not respond to the "power removal" or "CMOS reset shorting pin" methods. For a business laptop, it's going to be a damn nuisance to fix. The laptop in question, seems to be a Home unit, and not a Business unit. That's a good thing. Business laptops can have all sorts of maintenance headaches, and I would not buy a used or refurbished business one, myself. http://cdgenp01.csd.toshiba.com/cont...L305-S5919.pdf Replacing a motherboard isn't difficult, it's just tedious. A hard part, is getting your spudger underneath the keyboard fascia at the top, so you can gain access to the screws. Most other bits just require a selection of small screwdrivers (Jewelers, Torx, Security Torx or whatever). Some of the connectors are squashy, and if they don't seem to fit back in the holes, you examine them with a magnifying glass first, rather than "hitting them harder to make them fit". Use a work table which is light in color. Have enough room on the table, so the 40 screws can be arranged in a meaningful pattern. Take frequent digital camera photos as you work, and refer to them if you get lost in the mess. And examine the screws carefully, as sometimes when it looks like you're removing a set of six identical screws, it turns out five of the screws are the same length, and the sixth is a "shorty". Requiring you to put them back in the correct holes. Have a magnifying glass handy. A halogen lamp for illumination while you work, is a bonus. You must have good lighting, so you won't make mistakes. ******* My favorite reassembly story, is a poster who couldn't get a DIMM he purchased, to fit a memory socket. So, he proceeded to use a hacksaw, and cut a slot into the DIMM, to match the key in the slot. Of course, this was a disaster. As long as you're not one of "those" people, you'll be fine :-) An irrational solution... is usually the wrong solution :-) And if the unit is dead, you have nothing to lose but the replacement cost of the motherboard. It's not like the owner is going to get a better deal on repair at a repair shop. If a shop charges "$99 to look at it" and hundreds of dollars for the motherboard, you should be able to do a bit better using a motherboard off Ebay and a little patience. As long as you've prepared the owner for the possible outcomes, I'd give it a shot. If you scratch up a keyboard strip while removing it, well, that's life. Some of them now, are dead easy to remove. Some of the older ones were a bitch. You'll need some thermal paste for the heatsink replacement operation. And maybe some isopropyl to remove the old thermal interface material. If phase change material was used, the one of those I had to do, I just scraped it off with a metal tool. It might have been easier, if I heated up the sink a bit first, rather than scratching it off cold. The only kind of thermal paste I don't personally recommend, is the bright white zinc paste used for power transistors. I find that stuff runs out of the joint you apply it to. Something like Arctic Ceramique is good enough. There are some other materials, that are dough-like, and more trouble than they're worth (hard to apply). Read the reviews on Newegg, before you purchase a tube of something. They only differ a couple of degrees in performance, so just get something which is thick enough, it won't squirt out of the joint when compressed. As for Ebay, it's hard to say what kind of shape the motherboard will be in. Whether it actually worked when shipped, or was damaged by the owner. So that's a risk. If it happened to have a working processor included, and the seller hadn't removed the heatsink assembly, you could save yourself a lot of time in that case. As most of the replacement work will be "screwdriver work". Paul |
#6
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Want to disassemble Toshiba Satellite L305 5919
On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 18:53:25 -0400, Paul
wrote: wrote: I was given this dead Toshiba Satellite L305 5919 laptop. I was told the prior owner probably ruined the mobo by trying to short out the pins to bypass what he figured was the BIOS password. The screen lit up just fine before he did that, but would not boot up because it said it required a password before it would do anything. He read some helps on Google which suggested he short out two pins on the exposed mobo behind the memory modules. He said when he did that, neither the screen nor the power up indicator leds would light up any more. Clearly he must have hit the wrong pins. I thought I might try to dismantle the laptop and replace its mobo, figuring he shorted it out. But I have not done this before. So, I tried to find a guide via Google to do this, but cannot find anything except this one video that lacks any audio: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y5ljZlblzs If I can't find a guide to take this thing apart, I think I should pass. But I thought I would ask if anyone knows of a guide - preferably video. Or perhaps you guys will tell me i shud just forget it. Thank You Peter A safer way to reset a legacy BIOS storage, would be to pull the Main battery pack, as well as removing the CMOS coin cell. It's a "thing" wrapped in a shrink wrap tube, with a twisted pair wire that plugs into two pins on the motherboard. With no CMOS power, the password should reset. Just leave the unit sitting over night, for residual power to drain. No need to short pins, if there is no legend in white letter next to a pin header claiming it's a CLRCMOS or similar. Business laptops use a 2KB EEPROM to store the password, and the manufacturer Tech Support will tell you to "send it back to the factory to be reset". Those do not respond to the "power removal" or "CMOS reset shorting pin" methods. For a business laptop, it's going to be a damn nuisance to fix. The laptop in question, seems to be a Home unit, and not a Business unit. That's a good thing. Business laptops can have all sorts of maintenance headaches, and I would not buy a used or refurbished business one, myself. http://cdgenp01.csd.toshiba.com/cont...L305-S5919.pdf Replacing a motherboard isn't difficult, it's just tedious. A hard part, is getting your spudger underneath the keyboard fascia at the top, so you can gain access to the screws. Most other bits just require a selection of small screwdrivers (Jewelers, Torx, Security Torx or whatever). Some of the connectors are squashy, and if they don't seem to fit back in the holes, you examine them with a magnifying glass first, rather than "hitting them harder to make them fit". Use a work table which is light in color. Have enough room on the table, so the 40 screws can be arranged in a meaningful pattern. Take frequent digital camera photos as you work, and refer to them if you get lost in the mess. And examine the screws carefully, as sometimes when it looks like you're removing a set of six identical screws, it turns out five of the screws are the same length, and the sixth is a "shorty". Requiring you to put them back in the correct holes. Have a magnifying glass handy. A halogen lamp for illumination while you work, is a bonus. You must have good lighting, so you won't make mistakes. ******* My favorite reassembly story, is a poster who couldn't get a DIMM he purchased, to fit a memory socket. So, he proceeded to use a hacksaw, and cut a slot into the DIMM, to match the key in the slot. Of course, this was a disaster. As long as you're not one of "those" people, you'll be fine :-) An irrational solution... is usually the wrong solution :-) And if the unit is dead, you have nothing to lose but the replacement cost of the motherboard. It's not like the owner is going to get a better deal on repair at a repair shop. If a shop charges "$99 to look at it" and hundreds of dollars for the motherboard, you should be able to do a bit better using a motherboard off Ebay and a little patience. As long as you've prepared the owner for the possible outcomes, I'd give it a shot. If you scratch up a keyboard strip while removing it, well, that's life. Some of them now, are dead easy to remove. Some of the older ones were a bitch. You'll need some thermal paste for the heatsink replacement operation. And maybe some isopropyl to remove the old thermal interface material. If phase change material was used, the one of those I had to do, I just scraped it off with a metal tool. It might have been easier, if I heated up the sink a bit first, rather than scratching it off cold. The only kind of thermal paste I don't personally recommend, is the bright white zinc paste used for power transistors. I find that stuff runs out of the joint you apply it to. Something like Arctic Ceramique is good enough. There are some other materials, that are dough-like, and more trouble than they're worth (hard to apply). Read the reviews on Newegg, before you purchase a tube of something. They only differ a couple of degrees in performance, so just get something which is thick enough, it won't squirt out of the joint when compressed. As for Ebay, it's hard to say what kind of shape the motherboard will be in. Whether it actually worked when shipped, or was damaged by the owner. So that's a risk. If it happened to have a working processor included, and the seller hadn't removed the heatsink assembly, you could save yourself a lot of time in that case. As most of the replacement work will be "screwdriver work". Paul Thanx for the advice. I may not be able to reasonably buy a replacement mobo for this Satellite L305-S919 anyway. For some reason, this AM i can't find any of what yesterday looked to be compatible mobos on Ebay for about $40. I was willing to spend that just to see what kind of trouble i cud get into, So it looks like I'll just toss the thing. Too bad, because otherwise it looks pretty good - just hung up on the so-called BIOS password thing. Before my buddy killed it with his careless screwdriver anyway. :( Peter |
#7
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Want to disassemble Toshiba Satellite L305 5919
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 05:38:37 -0400, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 18:53:25 -0400, Paul wrote: wrote: I was given this dead Toshiba Satellite L305 5919 laptop. I was told the prior owner probably ruined the mobo by trying to short out the pins to bypass what he figured was the BIOS password. The screen lit up just fine before he did that, but would not boot up because it said it required a password before it would do anything. He read some helps on Google which suggested he short out two pins on the exposed mobo behind the memory modules. He said when he did that, neither the screen nor the power up indicator leds would light up any more. Clearly he must have hit the wrong pins. I thought I might try to dismantle the laptop and replace its mobo, figuring he shorted it out. But I have not done this before. So, I tried to find a guide via Google to do this, but cannot find anything except this one video that lacks any audio: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y5ljZlblzs If I can't find a guide to take this thing apart, I think I should pass. But I thought I would ask if anyone knows of a guide - preferably video. Or perhaps you guys will tell me i shud just forget it. Thank You Peter A safer way to reset a legacy BIOS storage, would be to pull the Main battery pack, as well as removing the CMOS coin cell. It's a "thing" wrapped in a shrink wrap tube, with a twisted pair wire that plugs into two pins on the motherboard. With no CMOS power, the password should reset. Just leave the unit sitting over night, for residual power to drain. No need to short pins, if there is no legend in white letter next to a pin header claiming it's a CLRCMOS or similar. Business laptops use a 2KB EEPROM to store the password, and the manufacturer Tech Support will tell you to "send it back to the factory to be reset". Those do not respond to the "power removal" or "CMOS reset shorting pin" methods. For a business laptop, it's going to be a damn nuisance to fix. The laptop in question, seems to be a Home unit, and not a Business unit. That's a good thing. Business laptops can have all sorts of maintenance headaches, and I would not buy a used or refurbished business one, myself. http://cdgenp01.csd.toshiba.com/cont...L305-S5919.pdf Replacing a motherboard isn't difficult, it's just tedious. A hard part, is getting your spudger underneath the keyboard fascia at the top, so you can gain access to the screws. Most other bits just require a selection of small screwdrivers (Jewelers, Torx, Security Torx or whatever). Some of the connectors are squashy, and if they don't seem to fit back in the holes, you examine them with a magnifying glass first, rather than "hitting them harder to make them fit". Use a work table which is light in color. Have enough room on the table, so the 40 screws can be arranged in a meaningful pattern. Take frequent digital camera photos as you work, and refer to them if you get lost in the mess. And examine the screws carefully, as sometimes when it looks like you're removing a set of six identical screws, it turns out five of the screws are the same length, and the sixth is a "shorty". Requiring you to put them back in the correct holes. Have a magnifying glass handy. A halogen lamp for illumination while you work, is a bonus. You must have good lighting, so you won't make mistakes. ******* My favorite reassembly story, is a poster who couldn't get a DIMM he purchased, to fit a memory socket. So, he proceeded to use a hacksaw, and cut a slot into the DIMM, to match the key in the slot. Of course, this was a disaster. As long as you're not one of "those" people, you'll be fine :-) An irrational solution... is usually the wrong solution :-) And if the unit is dead, you have nothing to lose but the replacement cost of the motherboard. It's not like the owner is going to get a better deal on repair at a repair shop. If a shop charges "$99 to look at it" and hundreds of dollars for the motherboard, you should be able to do a bit better using a motherboard off Ebay and a little patience. As long as you've prepared the owner for the possible outcomes, I'd give it a shot. If you scratch up a keyboard strip while removing it, well, that's life. Some of them now, are dead easy to remove. Some of the older ones were a bitch. You'll need some thermal paste for the heatsink replacement operation. And maybe some isopropyl to remove the old thermal interface material. If phase change material was used, the one of those I had to do, I just scraped it off with a metal tool. It might have been easier, if I heated up the sink a bit first, rather than scratching it off cold. The only kind of thermal paste I don't personally recommend, is the bright white zinc paste used for power transistors. I find that stuff runs out of the joint you apply it to. Something like Arctic Ceramique is good enough. There are some other materials, that are dough-like, and more trouble than they're worth (hard to apply). Read the reviews on Newegg, before you purchase a tube of something. They only differ a couple of degrees in performance, so just get something which is thick enough, it won't squirt out of the joint when compressed. As for Ebay, it's hard to say what kind of shape the motherboard will be in. Whether it actually worked when shipped, or was damaged by the owner. So that's a risk. If it happened to have a working processor included, and the seller hadn't removed the heatsink assembly, you could save yourself a lot of time in that case. As most of the replacement work will be "screwdriver work". Paul Thanx for the advice. I may not be able to reasonably buy a replacement mobo for this Satellite L305-S919 anyway. For some reason, this AM i can't find any of what yesterday looked to be compatible mobos on Ebay for about $40. I was willing to spend that just to see what kind of trouble i cud get into, So it looks like I'll just toss the thing. Too bad, because otherwise it looks pretty good - just hung up on the so-called BIOS password thing. Before my buddy killed it with his careless screwdriver anyway. :( Peter I got another cup of java and searched again - found a couple of URLs, like: http://www.ecrater.com/p/22040283/to...300-l305-intel that cud be compatible. $37! Without dismantling the laptop, I can't compare the mobos of course. I just might do that. - Nothing to lose except my sanity. Thanks Peter |
#8
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Want to disassemble Toshiba Satellite L305 5919
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 05:53:04 -0400, wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 05:38:37 -0400, wrote: On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 18:53:25 -0400, Paul wrote: wrote: I was given this dead Toshiba Satellite L305 5919 laptop. I was told the prior owner probably ruined the mobo by trying to short out the pins to bypass what he figured was the BIOS password. The screen lit up just fine before he did that, but would not boot up because it said it required a password before it would do anything. He read some helps on Google which suggested he short out two pins on the exposed mobo behind the memory modules. He said when he did that, neither the screen nor the power up indicator leds would light up any more. Clearly he must have hit the wrong pins. I thought I might try to dismantle the laptop and replace its mobo, figuring he shorted it out. But I have not done this before. So, I tried to find a guide via Google to do this, but cannot find anything except this one video that lacks any audio: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y5ljZlblzs If I can't find a guide to take this thing apart, I think I should pass. But I thought I would ask if anyone knows of a guide - preferably video. Or perhaps you guys will tell me i shud just forget it. Thank You Peter A safer way to reset a legacy BIOS storage, would be to pull the Main battery pack, as well as removing the CMOS coin cell. It's a "thing" wrapped in a shrink wrap tube, with a twisted pair wire that plugs into two pins on the motherboard. With no CMOS power, the password should reset. Just leave the unit sitting over night, for residual power to drain. No need to short pins, if there is no legend in white letter next to a pin header claiming it's a CLRCMOS or similar. Business laptops use a 2KB EEPROM to store the password, and the manufacturer Tech Support will tell you to "send it back to the factory to be reset". Those do not respond to the "power removal" or "CMOS reset shorting pin" methods. For a business laptop, it's going to be a damn nuisance to fix. The laptop in question, seems to be a Home unit, and not a Business unit. That's a good thing. Business laptops can have all sorts of maintenance headaches, and I would not buy a used or refurbished business one, myself. http://cdgenp01.csd.toshiba.com/cont...L305-S5919.pdf Replacing a motherboard isn't difficult, it's just tedious. A hard part, is getting your spudger underneath the keyboard fascia at the top, so you can gain access to the screws. Most other bits just require a selection of small screwdrivers (Jewelers, Torx, Security Torx or whatever). Some of the connectors are squashy, and if they don't seem to fit back in the holes, you examine them with a magnifying glass first, rather than "hitting them harder to make them fit". Use a work table which is light in color. Have enough room on the table, so the 40 screws can be arranged in a meaningful pattern. Take frequent digital camera photos as you work, and refer to them if you get lost in the mess. And examine the screws carefully, as sometimes when it looks like you're removing a set of six identical screws, it turns out five of the screws are the same length, and the sixth is a "shorty". Requiring you to put them back in the correct holes. Have a magnifying glass handy. A halogen lamp for illumination while you work, is a bonus. You must have good lighting, so you won't make mistakes. ******* My favorite reassembly story, is a poster who couldn't get a DIMM he purchased, to fit a memory socket. So, he proceeded to use a hacksaw, and cut a slot into the DIMM, to match the key in the slot. Of course, this was a disaster. As long as you're not one of "those" people, you'll be fine :-) An irrational solution... is usually the wrong solution :-) And if the unit is dead, you have nothing to lose but the replacement cost of the motherboard. It's not like the owner is going to get a better deal on repair at a repair shop. If a shop charges "$99 to look at it" and hundreds of dollars for the motherboard, you should be able to do a bit better using a motherboard off Ebay and a little patience. As long as you've prepared the owner for the possible outcomes, I'd give it a shot. If you scratch up a keyboard strip while removing it, well, that's life. Some of them now, are dead easy to remove. Some of the older ones were a bitch. You'll need some thermal paste for the heatsink replacement operation. And maybe some isopropyl to remove the old thermal interface material. If phase change material was used, the one of those I had to do, I just scraped it off with a metal tool. It might have been easier, if I heated up the sink a bit first, rather than scratching it off cold. The only kind of thermal paste I don't personally recommend, is the bright white zinc paste used for power transistors. I find that stuff runs out of the joint you apply it to. Something like Arctic Ceramique is good enough. There are some other materials, that are dough-like, and more trouble than they're worth (hard to apply). Read the reviews on Newegg, before you purchase a tube of something. They only differ a couple of degrees in performance, so just get something which is thick enough, it won't squirt out of the joint when compressed. As for Ebay, it's hard to say what kind of shape the motherboard will be in. Whether it actually worked when shipped, or was damaged by the owner. So that's a risk. If it happened to have a working processor included, and the seller hadn't removed the heatsink assembly, you could save yourself a lot of time in that case. As most of the replacement work will be "screwdriver work". Paul Thanx for the advice. I may not be able to reasonably buy a replacement mobo for this Satellite L305-S919 anyway. For some reason, this AM i can't find any of what yesterday looked to be compatible mobos on Ebay for about $40. I was willing to spend that just to see what kind of trouble i cud get into, So it looks like I'll just toss the thing. Too bad, because otherwise it looks pretty good - just hung up on the so-called BIOS password thing. Before my buddy killed it with his careless screwdriver anyway. :( Peter I got another cup of java and searched again - found a couple of URLs, like: http://www.ecrater.com/p/22040283/to...300-l305-intel that cud be compatible. $37! Without dismantling the laptop, I can't compare the mobos of course. I just might do that. - Nothing to lose except my sanity. Thanks Peter I wonder how likely it is that the mobo was shorted out when the wrong pins were crossed as opposed to something else. $37 is still a lot of money to spend only to find out something else was shorted. I just assumed that a mobo replacement will fix it. Maybe I shud just toss the laptop. Gotta think on this. Thanks Peter |
#9
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Want to disassemble Toshiba Satellite L305 5919
wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 05:53:04 -0400, wrote: On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 05:38:37 -0400, wrote: On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 18:53:25 -0400, Paul wrote: wrote: I was given this dead Toshiba Satellite L305 5919 laptop. I was told the prior owner probably ruined the mobo by trying to short out the pins to bypass what he figured was the BIOS password. The screen lit up just fine before he did that, but would not boot up because it said it required a password before it would do anything. He read some helps on Google which suggested he short out two pins on the exposed mobo behind the memory modules. He said when he did that, neither the screen nor the power up indicator leds would light up any more. Clearly he must have hit the wrong pins. I thought I might try to dismantle the laptop and replace its mobo, figuring he shorted it out. But I have not done this before. So, I tried to find a guide via Google to do this, but cannot find anything except this one video that lacks any audio: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y5ljZlblzs If I can't find a guide to take this thing apart, I think I should pass. But I thought I would ask if anyone knows of a guide - preferably video. Or perhaps you guys will tell me i shud just forget it. Thank You Peter A safer way to reset a legacy BIOS storage, would be to pull the Main battery pack, as well as removing the CMOS coin cell. It's a "thing" wrapped in a shrink wrap tube, with a twisted pair wire that plugs into two pins on the motherboard. With no CMOS power, the password should reset. Just leave the unit sitting over night, for residual power to drain. No need to short pins, if there is no legend in white letter next to a pin header claiming it's a CLRCMOS or similar. Business laptops use a 2KB EEPROM to store the password, and the manufacturer Tech Support will tell you to "send it back to the factory to be reset". Those do not respond to the "power removal" or "CMOS reset shorting pin" methods. For a business laptop, it's going to be a damn nuisance to fix. The laptop in question, seems to be a Home unit, and not a Business unit. That's a good thing. Business laptops can have all sorts of maintenance headaches, and I would not buy a used or refurbished business one, myself. http://cdgenp01.csd.toshiba.com/cont...L305-S5919.pdf Replacing a motherboard isn't difficult, it's just tedious. A hard part, is getting your spudger underneath the keyboard fascia at the top, so you can gain access to the screws. Most other bits just require a selection of small screwdrivers (Jewelers, Torx, Security Torx or whatever). Some of the connectors are squashy, and if they don't seem to fit back in the holes, you examine them with a magnifying glass first, rather than "hitting them harder to make them fit". Use a work table which is light in color. Have enough room on the table, so the 40 screws can be arranged in a meaningful pattern. Take frequent digital camera photos as you work, and refer to them if you get lost in the mess. And examine the screws carefully, as sometimes when it looks like you're removing a set of six identical screws, it turns out five of the screws are the same length, and the sixth is a "shorty". Requiring you to put them back in the correct holes. Have a magnifying glass handy. A halogen lamp for illumination while you work, is a bonus. You must have good lighting, so you won't make mistakes. ******* My favorite reassembly story, is a poster who couldn't get a DIMM he purchased, to fit a memory socket. So, he proceeded to use a hacksaw, and cut a slot into the DIMM, to match the key in the slot. Of course, this was a disaster. As long as you're not one of "those" people, you'll be fine :-) An irrational solution... is usually the wrong solution :-) And if the unit is dead, you have nothing to lose but the replacement cost of the motherboard. It's not like the owner is going to get a better deal on repair at a repair shop. If a shop charges "$99 to look at it" and hundreds of dollars for the motherboard, you should be able to do a bit better using a motherboard off Ebay and a little patience. As long as you've prepared the owner for the possible outcomes, I'd give it a shot. If you scratch up a keyboard strip while removing it, well, that's life. Some of them now, are dead easy to remove. Some of the older ones were a bitch. You'll need some thermal paste for the heatsink replacement operation. And maybe some isopropyl to remove the old thermal interface material. If phase change material was used, the one of those I had to do, I just scraped it off with a metal tool. It might have been easier, if I heated up the sink a bit first, rather than scratching it off cold. The only kind of thermal paste I don't personally recommend, is the bright white zinc paste used for power transistors. I find that stuff runs out of the joint you apply it to. Something like Arctic Ceramique is good enough. There are some other materials, that are dough-like, and more trouble than they're worth (hard to apply). Read the reviews on Newegg, before you purchase a tube of something. They only differ a couple of degrees in performance, so just get something which is thick enough, it won't squirt out of the joint when compressed. As for Ebay, it's hard to say what kind of shape the motherboard will be in. Whether it actually worked when shipped, or was damaged by the owner. So that's a risk. If it happened to have a working processor included, and the seller hadn't removed the heatsink assembly, you could save yourself a lot of time in that case. As most of the replacement work will be "screwdriver work". Paul Thanx for the advice. I may not be able to reasonably buy a replacement mobo for this Satellite L305-S919 anyway. For some reason, this AM i can't find any of what yesterday looked to be compatible mobos on Ebay for about $40. I was willing to spend that just to see what kind of trouble i cud get into, So it looks like I'll just toss the thing. Too bad, because otherwise it looks pretty good - just hung up on the so-called BIOS password thing. Before my buddy killed it with his careless screwdriver anyway. :( Peter I got another cup of java and searched again - found a couple of URLs, like: http://www.ecrater.com/p/22040283/to...300-l305-intel that cud be compatible. $37! Without dismantling the laptop, I can't compare the mobos of course. I just might do that. - Nothing to lose except my sanity. Thanks Peter I wonder how likely it is that the mobo was shorted out when the wrong pins were crossed as opposed to something else. $37 is still a lot of money to spend only to find out something else was shorted. I just assumed that a mobo replacement will fix it. Maybe I shud just toss the laptop. Gotta think on this. Thanks Peter Um, think positive thoughts ? Examine the motherboard, near the two-pin interface, and see if there is a legend in white letters. What do the letters hint at, in terms of function ? Paul |
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Want to disassemble Toshiba Satellite L305 5919
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 13:17:51 -0400, Paul
wrote: wrote: On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 05:53:04 -0400, wrote: On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 05:38:37 -0400, wrote: On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 18:53:25 -0400, Paul wrote: wrote: I was given this dead Toshiba Satellite L305 5919 laptop. I was told the prior owner probably ruined the mobo by trying to short out the pins to bypass what he figured was the BIOS password. The screen lit up just fine before he did that, but would not boot up because it said it required a password before it would do anything. He read some helps on Google which suggested he short out two pins on the exposed mobo behind the memory modules. He said when he did that, neither the screen nor the power up indicator leds would light up any more. Clearly he must have hit the wrong pins. I thought I might try to dismantle the laptop and replace its mobo, figuring he shorted it out. But I have not done this before. So, I tried to find a guide via Google to do this, but cannot find anything except this one video that lacks any audio: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y5ljZlblzs If I can't find a guide to take this thing apart, I think I should pass. But I thought I would ask if anyone knows of a guide - preferably video. Or perhaps you guys will tell me i shud just forget it. Thank You Peter A safer way to reset a legacy BIOS storage, would be to pull the Main battery pack, as well as removing the CMOS coin cell. It's a "thing" wrapped in a shrink wrap tube, with a twisted pair wire that plugs into two pins on the motherboard. With no CMOS power, the password should reset. Just leave the unit sitting over night, for residual power to drain. No need to short pins, if there is no legend in white letter next to a pin header claiming it's a CLRCMOS or similar. Business laptops use a 2KB EEPROM to store the password, and the manufacturer Tech Support will tell you to "send it back to the factory to be reset". Those do not respond to the "power removal" or "CMOS reset shorting pin" methods. For a business laptop, it's going to be a damn nuisance to fix. The laptop in question, seems to be a Home unit, and not a Business unit. That's a good thing. Business laptops can have all sorts of maintenance headaches, and I would not buy a used or refurbished business one, myself. http://cdgenp01.csd.toshiba.com/cont...L305-S5919.pdf Replacing a motherboard isn't difficult, it's just tedious. A hard part, is getting your spudger underneath the keyboard fascia at the top, so you can gain access to the screws. Most other bits just require a selection of small screwdrivers (Jewelers, Torx, Security Torx or whatever). Some of the connectors are squashy, and if they don't seem to fit back in the holes, you examine them with a magnifying glass first, rather than "hitting them harder to make them fit". Use a work table which is light in color. Have enough room on the table, so the 40 screws can be arranged in a meaningful pattern. Take frequent digital camera photos as you work, and refer to them if you get lost in the mess. And examine the screws carefully, as sometimes when it looks like you're removing a set of six identical screws, it turns out five of the screws are the same length, and the sixth is a "shorty". Requiring you to put them back in the correct holes. Have a magnifying glass handy. A halogen lamp for illumination while you work, is a bonus. You must have good lighting, so you won't make mistakes. ******* My favorite reassembly story, is a poster who couldn't get a DIMM he purchased, to fit a memory socket. So, he proceeded to use a hacksaw, and cut a slot into the DIMM, to match the key in the slot. Of course, this was a disaster. As long as you're not one of "those" people, you'll be fine :-) An irrational solution... is usually the wrong solution :-) And if the unit is dead, you have nothing to lose but the replacement cost of the motherboard. It's not like the owner is going to get a better deal on repair at a repair shop. If a shop charges "$99 to look at it" and hundreds of dollars for the motherboard, you should be able to do a bit better using a motherboard off Ebay and a little patience. As long as you've prepared the owner for the possible outcomes, I'd give it a shot. If you scratch up a keyboard strip while removing it, well, that's life. Some of them now, are dead easy to remove. Some of the older ones were a bitch. You'll need some thermal paste for the heatsink replacement operation. And maybe some isopropyl to remove the old thermal interface material. If phase change material was used, the one of those I had to do, I just scraped it off with a metal tool. It might have been easier, if I heated up the sink a bit first, rather than scratching it off cold. The only kind of thermal paste I don't personally recommend, is the bright white zinc paste used for power transistors. I find that stuff runs out of the joint you apply it to. Something like Arctic Ceramique is good enough. There are some other materials, that are dough-like, and more trouble than they're worth (hard to apply). Read the reviews on Newegg, before you purchase a tube of something. They only differ a couple of degrees in performance, so just get something which is thick enough, it won't squirt out of the joint when compressed. As for Ebay, it's hard to say what kind of shape the motherboard will be in. Whether it actually worked when shipped, or was damaged by the owner. So that's a risk. If it happened to have a working processor included, and the seller hadn't removed the heatsink assembly, you could save yourself a lot of time in that case. As most of the replacement work will be "screwdriver work". Paul Thanx for the advice. I may not be able to reasonably buy a replacement mobo for this Satellite L305-S919 anyway. For some reason, this AM i can't find any of what yesterday looked to be compatible mobos on Ebay for about $40. I was willing to spend that just to see what kind of trouble i cud get into, So it looks like I'll just toss the thing. Too bad, because otherwise it looks pretty good - just hung up on the so-called BIOS password thing. Before my buddy killed it with his careless screwdriver anyway. :( Peter I got another cup of java and searched again - found a couple of URLs, like: http://www.ecrater.com/p/22040283/to...300-l305-intel that cud be compatible. $37! Without dismantling the laptop, I can't compare the mobos of course. I just might do that. - Nothing to lose except my sanity. Thanks Peter I wonder how likely it is that the mobo was shorted out when the wrong pins were crossed as opposed to something else. $37 is still a lot of money to spend only to find out something else was shorted. I just assumed that a mobo replacement will fix it. Maybe I shud just toss the laptop. Gotta think on this. Thanks Peter Um, think positive thoughts ? Examine the motherboard, near the two-pin interface, and see if there is a legend in white letters. What do the letters hint at, in terms of function ? Paul I will, after I get the mobo out. Peter |
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