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Reproducing the error "Windows Registry Recovery..."
I have been reproducing lots of errors here lately, but this one
is notable, especially since it is serious (according to my research). Windows Registry Recovery One of the files containing the system's registry data had to be recovered by use of a log or alternate copy. The recovery was successful. The underlying problem is unknown (currently suspecting the motherboard), it occurs on this system. Windows XP SP3 Q9550, Intel CPU GA-EP45-UD3L, Gigabyte motherboard These actions reproduce the Windows Registry Recovery error. .... delete this entry, Device Manager -- System Devices -- PCI bus .... wait for a few minutes for the hard drive activity to stop .... the mouse and keyboard stop working, so either shut down or hit the reset button, and then restart .... at the Windows logon screen (at this point, things might be different if you do not use the Windows logon screen), just sit there and wait until hard drive activity stops again, it might be a few minutes or longer .... instead of continuing into Windows, restart through the shutdown dialog (this step might not actually be necessary, I forgot to try) .... when I get back into Windows, the Windows Registry Recovery error reappears There might be other ways to reproduce that error. After all of the software possibilities are eliminated, many seem to think the Windows Registry Recovery error is either RAM or hard drive. In my case, it seems to be the motherboard. But I wonder how much confidence (or not) in a hardware error since the error can be reproduced at will. Obviously is not just on startup, since the error does not occur every boot. |
#2
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Reproducing the error "Windows Registry Recovery..."
John Doe wrote:
I have been reproducing lots of errors here lately, but this one is notable, especially since it is serious (according to my research). Windows Registry Recovery One of the files containing the system's registry data had to be recovered by use of a log or alternate copy. The recovery was successful. The underlying problem is unknown (currently suspecting the motherboard), it occurs on this system. Windows XP SP3 Q9550, Intel CPU GA-EP45-UD3L, Gigabyte motherboard These actions reproduce the Windows Registry Recovery error. ... delete this entry, Device Manager -- System Devices -- PCI bus ... wait for a few minutes for the hard drive activity to stop ... the mouse and keyboard stop working, so either shut down or hit the reset button, and then restart ... at the Windows logon screen (at this point, things might be different if you do not use the Windows logon screen), just sit there and wait until hard drive activity stops again, it might be a few minutes or longer ... instead of continuing into Windows, restart through the shutdown dialog (this step might not actually be necessary, I forgot to try) ... when I get back into Windows, the Windows Registry Recovery error reappears There might be other ways to reproduce that error. After all of the software possibilities are eliminated, many seem to think the Windows Registry Recovery error is either RAM or hard drive. In my case, it seems to be the motherboard. But I wonder how much confidence (or not) in a hardware error since the error can be reproduced at will. Obviously is not just on startup, since the error does not occur every boot. Work through some of the suggestions here ? This thread has more than one victim, and more than one successful resolution. It could be bad RAM, but it could also be one of the registry files has a structural error inside, and that is causing the problem. There is one suggestion in this thread, that permissions on the registry file could be an issue, but then, how would the system be able to update the registry, if that was the case ? "WINXP registry restore error on startup" http://www.annoyances.org/exec/forum/winxp/t1048048020 If you use the built-in regedit, and do a search from the beginning, looking for a non-existent quantity, does the search go all the way to the end without incident ? I doubt that is a really good test, because the registry is probably parse ahead of time, and the search might not be stressing or checking anything. The notice of trusting a "registry cleaner" to check the registry, kinda scares me, because there is no way of knowing whether they're reporting real problems or not. You could also research, how to pull registry files from one OS install, over to another computer. I understand you can open a hive on another computer. Perhaps such a test case, would be a way of double checking whether the registry is really good or not ? Paul |
#3
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Reproducing the error "Windows Registry Recovery..."
John Doe wrote:
... remove the fan that was aimed at the south bridge chip and notice that the errors occur much more frequently ... put the fan very close and notice that the errors disappear Now the question is how long the thing will last after I put some serious fannage on it. Not absolutely sure it is the south bridge chip, but I guess it would be the most suspect chip in the area. I must have rebooted between 50 and 100 times this evening. Older Intel Southbridges ran so cool, they didn't need a heatsink. The newer ones have more high speed stuff in them, like SATA II and PCI Express x1 interfaces, and run a bit hotter. I'd start by checking the Southbridge heatsink is intact, and looks like it is in good contact. The manufacturer might use a thermal pad, rather than thermal grease. In some cases, you'll find an air gap between the chip and heatsink (if the plastic pins are loose). Or, in the case of heatpipe equipped cooling assemblies, a leaky heatpipe running from the Southbridge to the main heatsink block on the Northbridge, isn't working. If the tiny bit of working fluid evaporates on a single heatpipe system, then the chip will receive poor cooling. Some of the heatpipe makers weren't very good at sealing them. That's why I feel a bit better, when I see multiple heatpipes on cooling assemblies (redundancy to leak failures). I'd also be using alternate test environments, instead of just Windows. Perhaps the computer will also overheat, while you're running a Seagate Seatools disk diagnostic program ? I don't really know the best test recipe from a Linux LiveCD, except to perhaps copy a very large file from one disk to another, then run MD5SUM and verify the checksums of the two files are the same. That might tell you if disk errors were involved. Paul |
#4
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Reproducing the error "Windows Registry Recovery..."
Paul nospam needed.com wrote:
Older Intel Southbridges ran so cool, they didn't need a heatsink. The newer ones have more high speed stuff in them, like SATA II and PCI Express x1 interfaces, and run a bit hotter. How about onboard LAN stuff? Mainly curious. I'd start by checking the Southbridge heatsink is intact, and looks like it is in good contact. The manufacturer might use a thermal pad, rather than thermal grease. In some cases, you'll find an air gap between the chip and heatsink (if the plastic pins are loose). My GA-EP45-UD3L southbridge (the small chip) heatsink has always been too hot to hold my finger on. The thermal pad is held in place by light-duty springs, definitely applying some pressure. Strangely, the thermal pad looked like it had never been used. There was no residue on the chip and the pad was not melted or deformed. The thermal pad was removed and both surfaces were squeaky cleaned. Quality superglue was applied to the southbridge chip and the heatsink was plugged back into place. Firm pressure held them together for about 5 minutes. So here is the test of superglue heat transfer (I thought). Put everything back together and fired up Windows. Ran the aforementioned test and (@#$!) got plenty of Windows Registry Recovery errors on restarts. Hoping to prove it was not the superglue, I did a reinstallation of Windows, so far unable to bring up the Windows Registry Recovery error dialog. The chip appears to be transferring heat to the heatsink very well. I'd also be using alternate test environments, instead of just Windows. Perhaps the computer will also overheat, while you're running a Seagate Seatools disk diagnostic program ? FWIW. Installing Windows XP seems to do pretty well for heating up the system. But most people would not be able to do that unless they had already given up. -- I don't really know the best test recipe from a Linux LiveCD, except to perhaps copy a very large file from one disk to another, then run MD5SUM and verify the checksums of the two files are the same. That might tell you if disk errors were involved. Paul |
#5
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Reproducing the error "Windows Registry Recovery..."
John Doe wrote:
Paul nospam needed.com wrote: Older Intel Southbridges ran so cool, they didn't need a heatsink. The newer ones have more high speed stuff in them, like SATA II and PCI Express x1 interfaces, and run a bit hotter. How about onboard LAN stuff? Mainly curious. I'd start by checking the Southbridge heatsink is intact, and looks like it is in good contact. The manufacturer might use a thermal pad, rather than thermal grease. In some cases, you'll find an air gap between the chip and heatsink (if the plastic pins are loose). My GA-EP45-UD3L southbridge (the small chip) heatsink has always been too hot to hold my finger on. The thermal pad is held in place by light-duty springs, definitely applying some pressure. Strangely, the thermal pad looked like it had never been used. There was no residue on the chip and the pad was not melted or deformed. The thermal pad was removed and both surfaces were squeaky cleaned. Quality superglue was applied to the southbridge chip and the heatsink was plugged back into place. Firm pressure held them together for about 5 minutes. So here is the test of superglue heat transfer (I thought). Put everything back together and fired up Windows. Ran the aforementioned test and (@#$!) got plenty of Windows Registry Recovery errors on restarts. Hoping to prove it was not the superglue, I did a reinstallation of Windows, so far unable to bring up the Windows Registry Recovery error dialog. The chip appears to be transferring heat to the heatsink very well. I'd also be using alternate test environments, instead of just Windows. Perhaps the computer will also overheat, while you're running a Seagate Seatools disk diagnostic program ? FWIW. Installing Windows XP seems to do pretty well for heating up the system. But most people would not be able to do that unless they had already given up. Hmmm. If you can't keep a finger on the Southbridge heatsink, that means it is 65C+. Allowing for delta_T to the die, you could be around 85 to 90C at the silicon die. Something is not right there. Generally, if you burn yourself on something on your motherboard, you need to "fix it". Does your motherboard have any "boost voltage" settings for the chipset ? It sounds like perhaps the core voltage on the Southbridge is wrong. (In the manual, I see an "ICH I/O" and "ICH Core" setting in the MB Intelligent Tweaker screen.) The ICH10 datasheet has these values, so it takes a bunch of different power inputs. I've marked the entries with arrows, that I think correspond to the settings in the BIOS. So the values shown in the manual (1.5V and 1.1V) could very well be the correct stock settings. "Intel ICH10 Absolute Maximum Ratings 1.1 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 2.1 V --- 1.25 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5V to 2.1V 1.5 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 2.1 V --- 3.3 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 4.6 V 5.0 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 5.5 V V_CPU_IO Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 2.1 V" "Vcc1_1 1.1 V supply for core well logic. Vcc1_5_A 1.5 V supply for Logic and I/O." Instead of Superglue, you should have used regular thermal paste, and found another means of holding the heatsink to the chip. The nice thing about thermal paste, is it doesn't need as much "normal force" or "pressing downward force", to make the grease a good conductor of heat. On chips which have bare die, you have to be careful to use just enough grease, to allow the silicon die to be covered when pressure is applied to the heatsink. If the chip has a heat spreader lid on top, then you can be a bit sloppier with the grease. So you have two ways to attack the stability issue. Either reduce the heat coming from the chip (turn down the core voltage), or improve the cooling on the chip. I'm going to see if I can find a picture of your motherboard, to see what kind of heatsink is on it. If you use a heatsink with more cooling fin area, then point a fan right at the fins (impingement cooling), that is about the best you can do on the cooling front. You might do even better with some kind of chilled liquid cooling system, but for the price, buying another motherboard would be cheaper. OK, I can see the heatsink here. http://images17.newegg.com/is/image/newegg/13-128-372-S03?$S640W$ You may be able to replace that with a Swiftech MCX159CU. http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcx159-CU.asp "Brackets allow adjustments as follows: center to center distance between mounting holes ranges from 2.05" (52.1mm) to 2.41" (61.4mm)." You measure the distance from the center of one pushpin to the other, to see if the mounting scheme would work. That isn't the absolute best one you can use. The problem with a lot of those after-market ones, is they don't stay in production forever. OK, this is another style of cooler you could look at. This uses a heatpipe, which means more of the heat makes it into the fins. You can point a fan at one of these. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233021 Thermalright makes some like that too. I think the Xigmatek is a copy of the Thermalright. Thermalright probably made the first ones of that style. http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/therm...et-cooler.html With those, you'll need to dig up a user manual, to see what span they can handle on mounting hardware. And since this is a Southbridge, you also have to be careful that any cooler you buy, doesn't get in the way of any video cards. Oh, another thing. http://www.supergluecorp.com/removingsuperglue.html "even though Super Glue is incredibly strong, it has one weakness: acetone." That is great news, except the plastic on the integrated circuits might not be completely immune to acetone. Paul |
#6
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Superglue as a heat sink compound (was Reproducing the error "Windows Registry Recovery...")
Paul nospam needed.com wrote:
.... see above Hmmm. If you can't keep a finger on the Southbridge heatsink, that means it is 65C+. Allowing for delta_T to the die, you could be around 85 to 90C at the silicon die. Something is not right there. Generally, if you burn yourself on something on your motherboard, you need to "fix it". Does your motherboard have any "boost voltage" settings for the chipset ? It sounds like perhaps the core voltage on the Southbridge is wrong. (In the manual, I see an "ICH I/O" and "ICH Core" setting in the MB Intelligent Tweaker screen.) The ICH10 datasheet has these values, so it takes a bunch of different power inputs. I've marked the entries with arrows, that I think correspond to the settings in the BIOS. So the values shown in the manual (1.5V and 1.1V) could very well be the correct stock settings. "Intel ICH10 Absolute Maximum Ratings 1.1 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 2.1 V --- 1.25 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5V to 2.1V 1.5 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 2.1 V --- 3.3 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 4.6 V 5.0 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 5.5 V V_CPU_IO Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 2.1 V" "Vcc1_1 1.1 V supply for core well logic. Vcc1_5_A 1.5 V supply for Logic and I/O." Instead of Superglue, you should have used regular thermal paste, and found another means of holding the heatsink to the chip. The nice thing about thermal paste, is it doesn't need as much "normal force" or "pressing downward force", to make the grease a good conductor of heat. On chips which have bare die, you have to be careful to use just enough grease, to allow the silicon die to be covered when pressure is applied to the heatsink. If the chip has a heat spreader lid on top, then you can be a bit sloppier with the grease. So you have two ways to attack the stability issue. Either reduce the heat coming from the chip (turn down the core voltage), or improve the cooling on the chip. I'm going to see if I can find a picture of your motherboard, to see what kind of heatsink is on it. If you use a heatsink with more cooling fin area, then point a fan right at the fins (impingement cooling), that is about the best you can do on the cooling front. You might do even better with some kind of chilled liquid cooling system, but for the price, buying another motherboard would be cheaper. OK, I can see the heatsink here. http://images17.newegg.com/is/image/newegg/13-128-372-S03?$S640W$ You may be able to replace that with a Swiftech MCX159CU. http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcx159-CU.asp "Brackets allow adjustments as follows: center to center distance between mounting holes ranges from 2.05" (52.1mm) to 2.41" (61.4mm)." You measure the distance from the center of one pushpin to the other, to see if the mounting scheme would work. That isn't the absolute best one you can use. The problem with a lot of those after-market ones, is they don't stay in production forever. OK, this is another style of cooler you could look at. This uses a heatpipe, which means more of the heat makes it into the fins. You can point a fan at one of these. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233021 Thermalright makes some like that too. I think the Xigmatek is a copy of the Thermalright. Thermalright probably made the first ones of that style. http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/therm...fx-chipset-coo ler.html With those, you'll need to dig up a user manual, to see what span they can handle on mounting hardware. And since this is a Southbridge, you also have to be careful that any cooler you buy, doesn't get in the way of any video cards. Oh, another thing. http://www.supergluecorp.com/removingsuperglue.html "even though Super Glue is incredibly strong, it has one weakness: acetone." That is great news, except the plastic on the integrated circuits might not be completely immune to acetone. Actually, the plastic on integrated circuits is probably not immune to superglue. Have you ever noticed a tiny plume of smoke rising from superglue? It is like an acid, it tends to melt plastic. There is no removing the heatsink from my motherboard now. I would not use superglue on plastic if it might need to be undone sometime. I have never seen anyone produce anything to conflict with the idea that superglue is a good heat conductor. Have you ever researched it? I get a grand total of two results for "superglue conducts heat". For "superglue doesn't conduct heat", one reply from an unknown is "superglue doesn't conduct heat and it actually breaks down under heat" but that is nonsense since some superglues can handle 250°F. Another says "superglue doesn't conduct heat that well, even if it did it would be in a thermal compound by now" but that is obviously just ignorant. More accurate would be a statement like "if superglue were determined to be a good heat sink compound, heatsink compound producers would be out of business". One reason superglue is not normally used is because, depending on the surfaces, it is difficult or impossible to undo. And to the unskilled, it can be very risky just trying to use it. Not just the fact that it is so easy to get on your skin, but it is something you have one shot at. Like skydiving... If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you. I do not see anything scientific about the subject. I am surprised some of the overclockers have not done a study or a simple experiment. Some superglues bond stuff with extremely little space in between the two surfaces. Here are the specifications (if the following link does not work, you can find the maximum separation distance and other properties/information for various superglues at McMaster Carr). http://www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-super-glue/=9nx9j9 I guess they call it "fill space". Some superglue fills only 2/1000 of an inch, apparently the maximum. So if you have very even surfaces, especially if they are slightly rough, the two parts might even contact physically, especially after it dries and pulls them tightly together. And then there is the fact that you no longer need a clip or anything to hold the heatsink to the chip. Typical maximum temperature for superglue is probably around 180°F, according to their chart. That is only about 82°C. Good thing the clips are still on it. But hey, maybe when the superglue fails, it turns into a superconductor! Some of the Loctites on that page go up to about 250°F. I have some Arctic Silver, and the heatsink clips still worked, but I wanted to experiment a bit (and put my money where my mouth is, since I have mentioned using superglue before). I am not sure that heat sinking was the problem, no errors in this new installation so far, but I might as you suggest to try Messing with the southbridge settings if they seem out of line. |
#7
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Superglue as a heat sink compound (was Reproducing the error"Windows Registry Recovery...")
John Doe wrote:
Paul nospam needed.com wrote: ... see above Hmmm. If you can't keep a finger on the Southbridge heatsink, that means it is 65C+. Allowing for delta_T to the die, you could be around 85 to 90C at the silicon die. Something is not right there. Generally, if you burn yourself on something on your motherboard, you need to "fix it". Does your motherboard have any "boost voltage" settings for the chipset ? It sounds like perhaps the core voltage on the Southbridge is wrong. (In the manual, I see an "ICH I/O" and "ICH Core" setting in the MB Intelligent Tweaker screen.) The ICH10 datasheet has these values, so it takes a bunch of different power inputs. I've marked the entries with arrows, that I think correspond to the settings in the BIOS. So the values shown in the manual (1.5V and 1.1V) could very well be the correct stock settings. "Intel ICH10 Absolute Maximum Ratings 1.1 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 2.1 V --- 1.25 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5V to 2.1V 1.5 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 2.1 V --- 3.3 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 4.6 V 5.0 V Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 5.5 V V_CPU_IO Supply Voltage with respect to VSS -0.5 to 2.1 V" "Vcc1_1 1.1 V supply for core well logic. Vcc1_5_A 1.5 V supply for Logic and I/O." Instead of Superglue, you should have used regular thermal paste, and found another means of holding the heatsink to the chip. The nice thing about thermal paste, is it doesn't need as much "normal force" or "pressing downward force", to make the grease a good conductor of heat. On chips which have bare die, you have to be careful to use just enough grease, to allow the silicon die to be covered when pressure is applied to the heatsink. If the chip has a heat spreader lid on top, then you can be a bit sloppier with the grease. So you have two ways to attack the stability issue. Either reduce the heat coming from the chip (turn down the core voltage), or improve the cooling on the chip. I'm going to see if I can find a picture of your motherboard, to see what kind of heatsink is on it. If you use a heatsink with more cooling fin area, then point a fan right at the fins (impingement cooling), that is about the best you can do on the cooling front. You might do even better with some kind of chilled liquid cooling system, but for the price, buying another motherboard would be cheaper. OK, I can see the heatsink here. http://images17.newegg.com/is/image/newegg/13-128-372-S03?$S640W$ You may be able to replace that with a Swiftech MCX159CU. http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcx159-CU.asp "Brackets allow adjustments as follows: center to center distance between mounting holes ranges from 2.05" (52.1mm) to 2.41" (61.4mm)." You measure the distance from the center of one pushpin to the other, to see if the mounting scheme would work. That isn't the absolute best one you can use. The problem with a lot of those after-market ones, is they don't stay in production forever. OK, this is another style of cooler you could look at. This uses a heatpipe, which means more of the heat makes it into the fins. You can point a fan at one of these. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233021 Thermalright makes some like that too. I think the Xigmatek is a copy of the Thermalright. Thermalright probably made the first ones of that style. http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/therm...fx-chipset-coo ler.html With those, you'll need to dig up a user manual, to see what span they can handle on mounting hardware. And since this is a Southbridge, you also have to be careful that any cooler you buy, doesn't get in the way of any video cards. Oh, another thing. http://www.supergluecorp.com/removingsuperglue.html "even though Super Glue is incredibly strong, it has one weakness: acetone." That is great news, except the plastic on the integrated circuits might not be completely immune to acetone. Actually, the plastic on integrated circuits is probably not immune to superglue. Have you ever noticed a tiny plume of smoke rising from superglue? It is like an acid, it tends to melt plastic. There is no removing the heatsink from my motherboard now. I would not use superglue on plastic if it might need to be undone sometime. I have never seen anyone produce anything to conflict with the idea that superglue is a good heat conductor. Have you ever researched it? I get a grand total of two results for "superglue conducts heat". For "superglue doesn't conduct heat", one reply from an unknown is "superglue doesn't conduct heat and it actually breaks down under heat" but that is nonsense since some superglues can handle 250°F. Another says "superglue doesn't conduct heat that well, even if it did it would be in a thermal compound by now" but that is obviously just ignorant. More accurate would be a statement like "if superglue were determined to be a good heat sink compound, heatsink compound producers would be out of business". One reason superglue is not normally used is because, depending on the surfaces, it is difficult or impossible to undo. And to the unskilled, it can be very risky just trying to use it. Not just the fact that it is so easy to get on your skin, but it is something you have one shot at. Like skydiving... If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you. I do not see anything scientific about the subject. I am surprised some of the overclockers have not done a study or a simple experiment. Some superglues bond stuff with extremely little space in between the two surfaces. Here are the specifications (if the following link does not work, you can find the maximum separation distance and other properties/information for various superglues at McMaster Carr). http://www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-super-glue/=9nx9j9 I guess they call it "fill space". Some superglue fills only 2/1000 of an inch, apparently the maximum. So if you have very even surfaces, especially if they are slightly rough, the two parts might even contact physically, especially after it dries and pulls them tightly together. And then there is the fact that you no longer need a clip or anything to hold the heatsink to the chip. Typical maximum temperature for superglue is probably around 180°F, according to their chart. That is only about 82°C. Good thing the clips are still on it. But hey, maybe when the superglue fails, it turns into a superconductor! Some of the Loctites on that page go up to about 250°F. I have some Arctic Silver, and the heatsink clips still worked, but I wanted to experiment a bit (and put my money where my mouth is, since I have mentioned using superglue before). I am not sure that heat sinking was the problem, no errors in this new installation so far, but I might as you suggest to try Messing with the southbridge settings if they seem out of line. If you want any material to work as a heat conductor, you'd mix boron nitride particles with it. That is what the thermal grease compounds use as a major component. Even Arctic Silver has Boron Nitride in it. Boron nitride is an abrasive, something you might make sandpaper from. But it also conducts heat. Instead of Superglue, you could use Thermal Epoxy. It is permanent. One guy tried to separate the stuff, after it had set, and it ripped the top off the IC. So the IC is weaker than the thermal epoxy is. You only get one chance, to get it right, get the heatsink on evenly and so on. http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...l_adhesive.htm The MSDS for that stuff, is here. So this is an epoxy kit, but with Boron Nitride mixed into it. (I'm not sure what percentage is silver particles.) The Boron Nitride has to have a small particle size, to be effective. http://www.arcticsilver.com/PDF/epoxy/ASTA_MSDS_3.pdf "Product Ingredient Information CAS No. Silver (Metallic) 7440-22-4 Boron Nitride 10043-11-5 Part A Resin (Liquid Plastic N.O.S.) Non Hazardous Part B Hardener (Mercaptan Polymer) Non Hazardous" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boron_nitride "The thermal conductivity of BN is among the highest of all electric insulators" HTH, Paul |
#8
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Superglue as a heat sink compound (was Reproducing the error "Windows Registry Recovery...")
Paul nospam needed.com wrote:
If you want any material to work as a heat conductor, you'd mix boron nitride particles with it. Closeness helps with heat conduction too. Instead of Superglue, Is my southbridge going to die? Every review I have read that mentions using superglue says that it works well. The only exception is trying to use the four corner method with heat sink grease in the middle, and getting the two mixed up. I would be concerned about that for conceivably producing toxic fumes too. |
#9
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Superglue as a heat sink compound (was Reproducing the error"Windows Registry Recovery...")
John Doe wrote:
Paul nospam needed.com wrote: If you want any material to work as a heat conductor, you'd mix boron nitride particles with it. Closeness helps with heat conduction too. Instead of Superglue, Is my southbridge going to die? Every review I have read that mentions using superglue says that it works well. The only exception is trying to use the four corner method with heat sink grease in the middle, and getting the two mixed up. I would be concerned about that for conceivably producing toxic fumes too. Have you worked on your BIOS settings yet ? There is a difference between ICH I/O [Auto] ICH Core [Auto] and ICH I/O [1.500V] ICH Core [1.100V] Now, in theory, they're the same value. But in practice, if there is a BIOS bug, the Auto setting could actually be using a radically different value for the voltage. Forcing it manually, to the stock value, might help. I doubt the actual voltage value is measurable by the hardware monitor chip, but check whatever utility Gigabyte provides, to see if you can monitor those voltages from Windows. A Southbridge is good to about 99C at the silicon die. (You can look up the exact value in the Intel documentation.) The exterior of the heatsink clamped to the Southbridge, assuming it's making good thermal contact, will be 20-25C cooler. I have a digital thermometer I've used on occasion, that I jammed into the fin array, to get some idea of the actual temperature. Then do the math, add 20 to 25C to that number, and see if the result is over 99C. Lots of laptops run the chipset that hot, for their entire life, so they don't die instantly. Paul |
#10
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Superglue as a heat sink compound (was Reproducing the error "Windows Registry Recovery...")
Paul nospam needed.com wrote:
Have you worked on your BIOS settings yet ? Since reinstalling XP on my Raptor, there are no errors. There is a difference between ICH I/O [Auto] ICH Core [Auto] and ICH I/O [1.500V] ICH Core [1.100V] Strangely, it goes from 1.45 to 1.55, but will not allow 1.5. I will keep it on 1.45 for now. But I do not see the point unless there are noticeable errors or unless the difference is noticeable to the touch. With backups of drive C, will keep saved copies of RootkitRevealer results this time. Now, in theory, they're the same value. But in practice, if there is a BIOS bug, the Auto setting could actually be using a radically different value for the voltage. Forcing it manually, to the stock value, might help. I doubt the actual voltage value is measurable by the hardware monitor chip, but check whatever utility Gigabyte provides, to see if you can monitor those voltages from Windows. Okey-dokey. -- A Southbridge is good to about 99C at the silicon die. (You can look up the exact value in the Intel documentation.) The exterior of the heatsink clamped to the Southbridge, assuming it's making good thermal contact, will be 20-25C cooler. I have a digital thermometer I've used on occasion, that I jammed into the fin array, to get some idea of the actual temperature. Then do the math, add 20 to 25C to that number, and see if the result is over 99C. Lots of laptops run the chipset that hot, for their entire life, so they don't die instantly. Paul |
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